Vivienne Westwood

A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S SCENE
Milan:
Westwood’s S/S 13 collection at first appeared to be an unfocused parade of looks – pirate ponchos then sharp gangster suits; next a skinhead polo shirt followed by a slouchy robe sweater – but slowly revealed itself to be a sort of self survey of the designer’s history of savvy street looks. A youthful summer dreamscape theme, visible in the form of laurel wreathes and flower crowns, tied the disparate looks together. All the designer’s hits were there – the pirate looks in long striped shorts and puffed poncho shirts, the New Romantic drapery, and even her pagan years via African-style print suits and the floral headgear (although Punk was only hinted at via a sharply cut plaid suit). The collection worked as an encapsulation of Westwood’s varied career, tied together by a fixation on youth, fun and abandon, but in the end the parade of hits felt ever so slightly like a rehash at the cost of true innovation.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Street louche

Color: Olive / Peach / Khaki / Slate / Gunmetal blue / Granite / Goldenseal / Carmel

Key Items: Safari jackets / Pirate shirt ponchos / Morning suit variations / Khaki shorts / Shawl collar sweaters / Robe sweaters / Gangster suits

Materials: Chino / Wool knits / Cavalry canvas / Cotton jersey / Fleece shearling / Cotton pique / Sharkskin suiting

Print + Pattern: Prince of Wales checks / Pseudo–floral geometric prints / Agrarian still life graphics / Minimalist brush stroke camo / Grandma florals / Gingham / Pan graphics / Tic-tac-toe and flying bee graphics / Micro skulls / Vivienne Westwood’s Saturn logo / African style prints / Keith Haring style doodles / Stripes

Details + Trim: Pleats / Sport stripes

Accessories + Footwear: Mismatched wingtip tassel loafers / Laurel wreaths and flower crowns / Charm necklaces featuring butterflies and fascinum / Straw fedoras / Oversized sun hats / Triple tongue Mephisto-style walking shoes / Floral oxfords / Candy colored cap toes

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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