ROMANTIC BALANCE
New York: Edgy staple-like details reinforced the origami folds in many of Marios Schwab's Cruise/Resort looks, while romantic flower appliqués balanced out the sharper elements with a touch of romance. –Joanna Manganaro
Key Items: Origami-folded sheaths / Fine lace dresses / Bomber jackets with flower appliqués / Wrap skirts
Color: Black / White / Blush / Tan / Yves Klein blue
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Scarves are a key styling component this season, and many designers are playfully punctuating ensembles with designs shown on the head. Cynthia Rowley featured a series of standout looks — voluminous wraps, sometimes worn under hats or accented with pins.
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Snakeskin emerges as a key print for C/R 14. Muted shades of tan or grey create a fresh, sophisticated look on sculptural dresses, woven tees or skirts.
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Marios Schwab's off-the-shoulder fold and tack sleeves and illusion neckline gives a perfectly ladylike décolleté a edgy, deconstructed look.
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RIVIERA NIGHTS
New York: For Resort, Missoni captured the casual glamour of the French Riviera with easy-to-wear pieces in an optimistic color palette, as well as a handful of show-stopping dresses perfect for a night out in San Tropez. –Joanna Manganaro
Key Items: Fit-and-flare knit dresses / Wide-leg pants / Cropped tops / Pegged cropped pants / Dramatic floor-sweeping dresses
Color: Lime /
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FRENCH ACCENT
New York: Louis Vuitton design director Julie de Libran cited French girls as an inspiration behind her collection of structured separates punctuated with feminine details. –Joanna Manganaro
Key Items: Wide-leg pantsuits / Tweed separates / Boxy cropped jackets / Oversized coats
Color: French blues / White / Marigold / Bottle green / Plum / Berry red / Mint / Chocolate brown
Materials
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YACHT CLUB
New York: Moschino was an explosion of nautical styling, kitschy femininity with a red-white-and-navy blue color palette that refined the theme.– Lizzy Bowring
Key Items: Nautical / Bouclé jackets / Knit jumpsuits / Floral dresses / Embellished coats / Boatneck sweaters / Trompe l'oeil pieces / Fit & flare dresses / Tailored shorts / Puffball skirts / Flak jackets
Color: White / Scarlett
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RUFFLE & FLOW
New York: Zimmermann presented a breezy collection of cascading pieces, utilizing tiers and ruffles to create movement. Buoyant oversized silhouettes and sleek panelled shapes infused a sophisticated complexity while signature swimwear shapes oozed a playful sensuality. – Lizzy Bowring
Key Items: Tiered dresses / Twisted and ruffled / Cut-out swimwear / Halternecks / Jumpsuits / Cascading silhouettes / Backless statements
Color: Black
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SHORT CUTS
New York: Short, sharp and sweet was the vibe at T by Alexander Wang. Sculpted, athletic suiting in neoprene and quilted jacquard, abbreviated separates and pastel hues. – Natalie Shukur
Key Items: Moulded, cropped suiting / Crop tops / Sporty knits / Short shorts / Miniskirts / Abbreviated rompers / Leather hoodies & board shorts / Crisp, cotton minidresses
Color: White / Lemon sherbet
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RAVE ON
London: Inspired by the 90s Hacienda rave scene in Manchester, Giles Deacon presented loose, fluid looks–from printed silk wide-leg pants to casual dresses–with roominess and flexibility.– Natalie Shukur
Key Items: Wide-leg pants / Sack dresses / Loose, twisted & draped dresses / Shift dresses / Shirt dresses / A-Line dresses / Baggy separates / Oversized skirt suits / Blouson sleeves / Ruffles &
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SOFT STRUCTURE
New York: Slouchy suiting, tomboy separates and athletic elements were softened by pretty skirts and dresses that were pleated, fluted, tiered, draped and rendered in feminine florals. – Natalie Shukur
Key Items: Relaxed tailoring / Crop tops / Billowing wide-leg, high-waist pants / Pajamas / Tiered slip dress / Shrunken bomber jackets / Fluted-hem shift dresses & skirts/ Pleated & gathered shift dresses
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ACID TRIP
London: "Eighties design outfit Memphis and 90s Pet Shop Boys album covers" were the reference points for Jonathan Saunders' bright collection of eye-popping prints in acidic hues. – Lizzy Bowring
Key Items: Printed jersey T-shirts & skirts / Pencil skirts / Slim, seamed dresses / Silk slips / Belted satin coats / Slim, high-waist pants / Cardigans / Poodle skirts & dresses /
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DIVINE DIVING
New York: Michelle Smith took her girl on a tropical diving getaway for Cruise/Resort, presenting garments that featured scuba details, folkloric fabrics, and skin-baring cutouts. –Joanna Manganaro
Key Items: Curve-hugging dresses / Pencil skirts / Printed cropped tops / Jumpsuits / Flared skirts / Pieces sweatshirts
Color: Ocean blue / Lime / Magenta / White / Heather grey / Black /
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CITY GIRL
New York: Andrea Lieberman presented a thoroughly cosmopolitan Cruise/Resort collection filled with desirable basics in streamlined silhouettes and an elegant, minimal color palette. –Joanna Manganaro
Key Items: Slim tailored pants / Below-the-knee pencil skirts / Biker jackets / Cropped tops / Flow pleated skirts
Color: Black / White / Navy / Raspberry / Cinnamon
Materials + Trim: Leather / Wool jacquard /
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Bright white makes an impact for C/R 14. Crisp fabrics lend a sculptural quality to asymmetrical elements and textured layers.
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