FRENCH COUNTRY
Paris: With concha belts, Native American-inspired jewelry, floor-sweeping broomstick skirts and plenty of gingham, Alexis Mabille seemed to conjure an idealized interpretation of the American West. But with his affinity for romantic details and femininity, the looks took on a very French sense of delicateness. Bits of lace were attached to collars and sleeves, and three-dimensional flower appliqués decorated
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THE LADY WHO SPORTS
Paris: Rochas designer Marco Zanini cited Wes Anderson's Margot Tenenbaum as one inspiration for his recent resort collection and the influence seems to have carried through for S/S 13. Centered on a shrunken polo shirt silhouette, the presentation was sporty and luxurious, alternating between boxy satin shirts and dresses and crop tops paired with pleated floor-length skirts.
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GRACEFUL GRUNGE
Paris: Dries Van Noten admitted to having revisited his archives this season, for a stunningly strong collection that seemed to be created effortlessly. With models gliding down a Parisian underground garage, the hypnotically beautiful ensembles had the unselfconscious chic of the Grey Gardens ladies. The 1930s-flavored silhouettes and the delicate layering combined with checked shirts were suggestive of WWII
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DARK DRAMA
Paris: Nicolas Andreas Taralis is among the group of Paris designers, which includes Rick Owens, Damir Doma and Gareth Pugh, that tends toward the darker side, with cool neutral tones, plenty of draping and the occasional hard edge. Taralis has not achieved the success or critical acclaim of his peers, and his spring collection demonstrated the reason behind this
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GOTHS GONE COUNTRY
Paris: Ophélie Kière and François Alary, the design duo behind the irreverent label Devastée, had a surprisingly bucolic inspiration for spring. Landscape photographs were their starting point, and they were recreated via digital prints for silk boxy tops and shifts. In keeping with both the rural theme and the label's cheeky tendencies, the opening look featured cartoon tractors.
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BELLE BOURGEOIS
Paris: Designer Marcel Marongiu took on bourgeois basics for his spring collection. He presented simplified versions of classic turtleneck dresses, pleated skirts and crew neck sweaters. In monochrome tones, many of his ensembles lacked excitement. Luckily, the collection received a lively jolt when geometric patterns were introduced midway through. Though the silhouettes remained spare, the patterns provided a focal
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Paris is the final city in the Fashion Month, and some may argue the best. Along with the hosting the world’s top designers and fashion elite, Paris can also provide some very tasty eats along the way. From age old destinations that have served some of the most creative minds of our time, to young up and comers who are
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It's Paris Fashion Week and this opulent, 8-day finale to the fashion week schedule arrives with promises of glitzy soirées, champagne and heady techno beats. Here is our last installment of our Fashion Week Playlist to get you through the final push of shows, in-the-morning outfit building and getting papped by street photographers on the way to work. - Veronica
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MELANCHOLIC TOMBOY
Paris: Damir Doma examines the ephemeral quality of the human body; his designs study and play with the proportion in true avant-garde style. This season Damir aimed to encapsulate a melange of textures, juxtaposting rough and refined, matte and shine. The silhouettes drew inspiration from the worlds of art and architecture in the quest for the perfect wardrobe and purity
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GENDERED VOLUME
Paris: Based in Paris, South Korean designer Moon Young Hee is one of the country’s most well-known designers, loved at home and abroad for her experimental aesthetic. This season it was a story of masculine versus feminine, bringing together extreme wide-leg trousers and pinstriped suiting with paneled dresses in coated linen. Draping and patchworking added volume to sleeveless tanks,
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BEAM ME UP
Paris: Design duo Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor must have been watching lots of Star Trek reruns when designing their spring collection. The rigid looks recalled costumes from the celebrated television show, from the strict A-line silhouettes to the color blocking, and even down to the pins on the left breast of each ensemble. Futuristic themes have been
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INTO THE FUTURE
Paris: Before debuting his namesake collection for fall, Cédric Charlier designed sweet, print-heavy collections for Cacharel. With his angular, futuristic spring collection, he seemed to be trying to distance himself from his previous work. The show opened with stiff, white versions of the classic motorcycle jacket and continued with laser-cut leathers and an edgy texture print whose colors
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RISING STAR
Paris: With just four seasons under his belt, Anthony Vaccarello has skyrocketed from virtual unknown to rising star. His sexy dresses have been photographed on fashion royalty, such as Julia Restoin Roitfeld and Giovanna Battaglia. This season, Vaccarello justified the hype with an accomplished collection. In addition to the skin-barring, figure-hugging looks that garnered him all the press, he
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MONOCHROME GODDESS
Paris: Veronique Branquinho kicked off the S/S 13 season in Paris with an ode to the statuette, draping her models in luminous gold column dresses that seemed nearly liquid. Equal parts Oscar award and Greek goddess, these nude-toned gowns embellished with burnished beading and fringe were the high point of the presentation, but seemed very much at odds with
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RELAXED EMBELLISHMENT
Milan: Maurizio Pecoraro’s S/S 13 collection followed the trend in Milan this season for embellishment with sequins and crystals, but his version was refreshingly low-key and relaxed. Elongated and slouchy tanks, collarless jackets, loose skirts and sporty shorts were luxuriously beaded, with a neutral pumice hue edged in ombré plum making the pieces appropriate for everyday. There were brighter
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