MIXED MESSAGES
Paris: Japanese designer Atsuro Tayama juggled many ideas in his spring collection. There were the dark and drape-y looks that opened the show. With filmy lace and touches of leather, they had a gothic feel. Tayama added in a couple lacy knits, then moved on to a series of camouflage. Pieced denim was next on the list, and it
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DELICATE DESHABILLE
Paris: An expert with chiffon and other delicate fabrics, Sharon Wauchob played to her strengths for spring. The designer toyed with the notion of undress, presenting plenty of pajama separates and sheer panels that allowed bras to peek through. There was a vaguely Asian sensibility present, with clean-lined jackets and wood-block florals. Wauchob added movement with fringe overlays made
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BODY CONSCIOUS ROMANCE
Paris: Barbara Bui practically invented the stretch leather trouser, a favorite among her customers and a reliable key item in a variety of markets. For S/S 13 Bui paired this must-have with elegant tailoring, from double-breasted coat dresses to sleeveless blazers fastened with subtle leather harnesses. Surface textures, including floral embroidery and colorful beading, were an uncharacteristically romantic
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BOLLYWOOD BLING
Paris: Indian designer Manish Arora looked to his homeland for inspiration for his spring collection. Elaborate prints featured tigers, Indian jewels and designs that recalled tiles in Hindu temples. Arora, never one to refuse embellishment, added jewels to tops and dresses and fish scale-like paillettes to leggings. Opulent jewelry, made in collaboration with Amrapali, adorned models' heads, ears and
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21ST CENTURY GOTH
Paris: It seems the goth look will never go out of style, ensuring Ann Demeulemeester's lasting relevance. Though she has been putting out drape-y black looks since the 80s, Demeulemeester's shows can still offer an element of newness and surprise. For spring, in addition to all the obligatory black, there was a compelling grape hue. Satin pieces in
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PLAYFUL OPULENCE
Paris: After just three short seasons at Balmain Olivier Rousteing has established a cult following. Countless editorials have documented his baroque embellishments and slouchy take on luxury, a trend sure to continue for S/S 13. Turning his attention to the 90s, a decade when the 26 year old designer was only a small child, Rousteing produced his take on
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London Fashion Week always stands out among the four cities as the most experimental in fashion and beauty. While some beauty looks aren't wearable for every day, there is something about a mad celebration of color and deliberate, outrageous play that satisfies our desire for spectacle. It's a fashion show, for goodness sake! Here's to our favorite looks from London
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WHIMSICAL SEVENTIES
Paris: Since his debut collection for Carven just two years ago, Guillaume Henry has enjoyed both critical and commercial success. He offers the magic combination of wearability, femininity, and a touch of whimsy that retailers (and their customers) love. For spring, Henry did not disappoint. The collection had a tinge of the 70s, with earthy tones, extra-wide collars, wide-leg
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MASCULIN/FÉMININ
Paris: Nicolas Ghesquière vacillated between man-tailored separates and dramatic, ruffled pieces during the first series of looks of his spring collection. The ruffles cascaded down one hitched-up side, evoking flamenco dresses. Was this a nod to Cristobal Balenciaga's Spanish roots? Stiff, bonded crepes were used to create the striking shapes; cropped tops were rigidly boxy, and the ruffles held their
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MUGLER FOR THE MASSES
Paris: When Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné took over Mugler in 2011, the story focused on Formichetti’s experience as a stylist and Lady Gaga’s costumer with little attention paid to the actual clothes he designed. This Spring buyers and consumers alike may take notice of the increasingly commercial Mugler collections, which this time centered on flirtatious mini
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GRAPHIC ORGANIC
Paris: Surface textures are a must for Martine Sitbon and modern embellishments run throughout her collections. This Spring the designer chose a graphic and abstractly organic theme, mixing sheer and matte textures with circular PVC patches and jagged illustrated florals. A handful of plastic appliqués were also floral, but in stark black and white these details were never confectionery.
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A GOTHIC ORNITHOLOGIST
Paris: Gareth Pugh’s theatrical collections have evened out in the past few seasons, featuring avant-garde pieces that are actually wearable. S/S 13 opened on several dark leather geisha looks although the stated inspiration for the season was Latin American cockfighting. Further along, avian details could be seen in a series of shredded ruffle dresses, as well as the
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PATCHED IN
Paris: A rising star on the Paris schedule, Felipe Oliveira Baptista brings a distinctly graphic and urban point of view to the runway, which for S/S 13 translated into a fantastically chic uniform of colorblocked basics. Key pieces included boxy short sleeve shirting, tapered trousers, tunic tops and t-shirt dresses, each serving as a canvas for strategic slices of
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Romance was in the air at Dries Van Noten as the Belgian designer explored tulle tartan and transparency for his most recent collection. Sheer layering and slouchy silhouettes lent an effortless look to the clothes, while puckered flower embellishments created from colored tulle rounded out the femininity, creating a delectable confectionery-inspired texture. —Shannon Davenport
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