JUNIOR DECADES
Paris: Agnès Troublé took a spin through the past few decades with her S/S 13 collection, all the while keeping her tone light and fresh befitting this Junior-oriented brand. Beginning with 40s berets and schoolgirl uniforms, the presentation touched lightly on bright 60s repeat patterns and matched sets before finding its footing with more recent references. These callbacks to
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DELICATE + DEMURE
Paris: Since they took the reins at Valentino in 2009, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have pushed the boundaries. They introduced neon, techy fabrics and studs, as well as a new youthfulness that reenergized the label. But for spring, the designers returned to the essence of the house with a collection filled with delicate, feminine looks
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Karl Lagerfeld approached Spring with a heaping dose of whimsy at Chanel. Similar to the Marie Antoinette inspired Resort collection he seemed to channel a soft feminine nostalgia, but most interesting were the casual denim and chambray pieces that fell into this look. On a particularly wearable button-up shirt, tiny fabric pinwheels, flowers and patches added texture and provided a
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GENERATION NEXT
Paris: S/S 13 at Chanel was more girly and youthful than it has been in a several seasons, with many of the pinafore dresses and sailor collar jackets so innocently retro they could have outfitted the adolescent protagonist of Marguerite Duras’ classic novel The Lover. However, Lagerfeld’s message of youth was certainly not stuck in the past. Dramatically staged
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YOUTHFUL OPTIMISM
Paris: For a designer who never studied fashion, Simon Porte Jacquemus has come a long way. He was just nominated for an ANDAM award, Opening Ceremony recently picked up his line, and he presented his first proper runway show this season. Jacquemus has played with the notion of sport in the past, and he brought the theme up again
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BE JEWELED
Paris: German designer Lutz Huelle's label has been slowly gaining recognition over his eleven years in business. He has won the ANDAM award twice and was chosen by iD Magazine to judge their Emerging Designer awards this year. As in seasons past, Huelle focused on draping for his spring collection. The organic shapes he created were elegant and flattering.
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SIMPLY CHIC
Paris:Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz has only been showing his collection for a short time, but the sophistication his label offers is that of a more established house. For spring, Kayrouz juxtaposed fluidity with structure, pairing boxy jackets with slouchy pants and sending out stiff, boxy shifts alongside paper bag-waist skirts and drape-y dresses. White and navy tones, along with
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RETRO KITSCH
Paris: Olympia Le Tan quickly established a cult following for her kitschy handbags, trompe l’oeil reproductions of classic books with a winking 60s vibe. Childish and sweet, the totes captured the zeitgeist and numerous tastemaker fans including fashion insiders like Annabelle Dexter-Jones and Charlotte Dellal. After a cheeky debut last season, Le Tan’s ready-to-wear returned for Spring, this time
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BOHEMIAN ADJUSTMENT
Paris: Hedi Slimane’s first Saint Laurent womenswear collection was hotly anticipated following his takeover of YSL, relocation of the design studio to Los Angeles and subsequent re-branding. But despite the move, no one predicted the retro and bohemian direction he took for Spring, a rock and roll 70s Stevie Nicks redux relying heavily on some of YSL’s greatest hits.
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Paris designers showed long dresses (or skirts) over pants this season, for a look that is part Grunge, part 50s hostess. The look can be offhand and casual, with slipdresses layered over mismatched capris; or evening elegant, with ballgown silhouettes and tailored trousers. Long top layers must be either open in the front or made from translucent materials, to let
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THE FUTURE PERFECT
Paris: Pedro Lourenço’s S/S 13 had a distinctly futuristic vibe of the sort executed by directional designers like Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, an effortless merger of innovation and wearability that makes this young talent an exciting must-see on the Paris schedule. Continuing to draw inspiration from the rosy-hued infrared photography of Richard Mosse, Lourenço used feminine blush tones
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Fit-and-flare silhouettes are popular among the celebrity set this season, appearing on stars in the front rows of every city. In New York, Jessica Alba sported a voluminous tartan skirt with a cropped motorcycle jacket, and more recently, Leelee Sobieski’s belted red frock epitomized the “New Look” at Christian Dior in Paris. Ballet-inspired tutus and overskirts also remain popular, and
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Stella McCartney has commandeered a successful activewear diffusion line for Adidas and designed the uniforms for the most recent Olympic games in London, so her sporty-chic inspiration felt right at home in the context of her career thus far. Colorblocking construction made a bold, statement-worthy impression on delicate sheer fabrics and subtle pleating, while flattering the female form as McCartney
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A RETURN TO RUFFLES
Paris: Designer Clare Waight Keller may be new to Chloé but the brand celebrated its 60th anniversary this season, a landmark emphasized with a return to their signature feminine aesthetic. In contrast to Fall’s sporty modernity the S/S 13 collection looked effervescent, centered on voluminous pleating and crisp ruffles for an on-trend boxy silhouette. The presentation featured
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SIMPLIFIED SENSUALITY
Paris: Giambattista Valli loves a good embellishment. He's never been shy about decorating or printing his clothes, and his Fall 2012 Couture collection is the perfect example. The dresses were essentially topiaries made from floral-printed ruffles. But for spring, Valli toned it down considerably, focusing on simple, tailored separates and elegant dresses. The designer certainly did not eschew embellishment
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