MASCULINE FLUIDITY
Milan: Neil Barrett achieved a perfect balance of themes this season, with a collection both masculine and fluid, young yet mature, and sporty yet refined. Tweaked activewear was a key element — sweatshirts were cut in neoprene, Varsity jackets in metallic leather, and striped baseball jerseys were paired with matching shorts. Classic items like Continental pants and dinner jackets
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WIDE BERTH
Milan: Jil Sander returned to her eponymous luxury label this season and quickly re-established control. S/S 13’s suiting was boxy but elongated, tailored but modern in monochrome combination with both pintucked, cropped trousers or the collection’s lynchpin: wide, below-the-knee shorts. Volume was Sander’s statement, appearing via round, un-embellished mackintosh coats in bright primary tones as well as interesting hybrid
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THE BUSINESS OF SUMMER
Milan: Ermenegildo Zenga’s S/S 13 collection represented the best menswear has to offer in the way of sophisticated summer wardrobes. Playful tropical leaf prints allowed for the lightness of the season, but trim, tailored silk suiting still meant business. Throughout the presentation, Zenga showed oversized leather weekend bags paired with slim blazers and gladiator sandals worn with
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MONOCHROME EASE
Milan: Slick, monochromatic urban sport was Costume National’s message for S/S 13, though designer Ennio Capasa imagined this aesthetic by way of David Bowie. The 80s influences arrived via pleated, relaxed trousers and strong shouldered blazers and vests, while the Thin White Duke’s theatrical flair was channeled into silk neck scarves and leather sandals. Although Capasa’s silhouette was decidedly
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MAN/WOMAN
London: Tired of the same old, JW Anderson stated backstage, "I feel like menswear has gotten to a point for me where it had to be thrown out the window and dragged back in." The result was an oddly feminine Men's collection comprised of a petit fours palette and Womenswear fabrics like sheer organza and taffeta. Matched sets were abundant,
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HYPER RELAXED
London: Meadham Kirchhoff's S/S 13 Men's collection merged the ease of slouchy layers with the energy of bold color and mixed pattern. Influences ranged from classic striped pajama bottoms to streetwise track bottoms to Scandinavian fishermen garb. Contrasting the crumpled carefree vibe was a straightforward dose of femininity (which early indicators suggest will be an important influence this season), apparent
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