Marc Jacobs is a master at weaving a narrative story through several collections and he brought his 60s gamine from his namesake New York line to Paris for Spring. The mod feeling made its way into checkerboard prints that were done in bold black and white as well as optical-illusion inspired sheer square patterns that added a fresh twist on
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VIVID PRACTICALITY
Paris: Although Elie Saab is known for his evening dresses and named his S/S 13 collection “Heiress,” what showed up on the runway was much more practical. Pleasingly wearable, these monochrome and office appropriate ensembles included slim pantsuits, structured sheath dresses and nipped waist jackets in punchy watermelon and cobalt. No nonsense tailoring flowed into younger full skirts in
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Sheer layers are key for S/S 13, but in Paris those transparent layers are given an edge with a plastic sheen. Glazed or iridescent chiffons create the impression of colored cellophane — used for separates, dresses and pieced panels. Some designers chose real plastic, offering clear vinyl raincoats made luxe with snakeskin trims. – Sharon Graubard
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DOOMSDAY POISE
Paris: Dutch designer Steffie Christiaens may be new to the Paris schedule, but her experience is formidable. After three years at Balenciaga and Maison Martin Margiela, Christiaens founded her own line and was swiftly nominated as a finalist at the Festival de Hyères. For S/S 13 her collection took a fresh view of a common theme by citing an
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THE LADY UNFINISHED
Paris: The intellectual lady is always a starting point at Miu Miu, a muse more interested in wit and comfort than flashy seduction. Retro silhouettes help drive the point home and for S/S 13 Miuccia Prada returned to skirts following last season’s celebration of the pantsuit. Midi pencil skirts were paired with boxy jackets and smocked capelets as
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CHECK MATE
Paris: One always looks forward to Marc Jacobs' Louis Vuitton collection, not only because it signals that the grueling fashion marathon has finally come to an end, but also because he puts on such a great show. This season, artist Daniel Buren created the elaborate set, four towering escalators and a slick yellow-and-white checked runway. Buren's installation at the
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ISLAND TIME
Paris: Relaxed and casual, Sophie Albou-Mechaly's spring collection for Paul & Joe had all the right elements for a perfect vacation wardrobe. Comfortable denim and cotton were made into roomy bottoms and easy button-ups, and eyelets added a touch of femininity. The highlights of the show were prints and patterns depicting Hawaiian hibiscus flowers and tropical birds. Created in
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A SHARP CUT STARLET
Paris: Portuguese designer Luis Buchinho is only beginning to receive recognition on the Paris schedule but his sharply cut Spring collection may help spread the word. With cropped and skinny silhouettes, the presentation was built for a young, daring customer, one for whom asymmetric minidresses and patchworked halter tops are de rigueur. What made these items interesting
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CROWD SOURCED CHIC
Paris: Founded a year ago by former Band Of Outsiders president Kristy Caylor, Maiyet is the first culturally crowd-sourced label of its kind, partnering with traditional artisans in communities around the world each season. Maiyet’s latest collection centered on the work of Peruvian craftspeople and the results were anything but colloquial. Crisp white separates with tonal embroideries were
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OVERT SENSUALITY
Paris: For her debut outing as artistic director of Paco Rabanne, 29-year-old Lydia Maurer looked to the house's history for inspiration. In particular, she examined a series of seductive nudes by photographer Jean Clemmer, which featured Rabanne accessories. Maurer channeled the alluring nature of the photographs when creating this season's garments. Metal mesh, revealing necklines, snakeskin and silver chain
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ODE TO THE APIARY
Paris: With chic versions of beekeepers' hats, honeycomb patterns and bejeweled bee appliqués, Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton presented a fantastical ode to the apiary for spring. With sharp shoulders, rounded hips and almost-unnaturally nipped-in waists, even the silhouettes borrowed from the bees. Tortoiseshell accessories, which represented rich honey, were studded with golden bees, and jacquards and lace
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DARK ELEGANCE
Paris: Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg have been quietly putting out collections since 2004. The consistency of their vision and their darkly elegant garments make them two of most underrated designers at Paris Fashion Week. Their spring show was of a piece with their appealing past collections. Leather and an abundance of black, in addition to edgy extras like
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WORLD TRAVELER
Paris: Japan-born, Paris-based designer Junko Shimada took her muse on a trip to the Middle East for spring. Bunchy turbans, harem pants and a long-over-long silhouette were all references to the garments of the region. Shimada completed the looks with Moroccan-style slippers featuring platform soles. The designer also mixed in classic pencil skirts, cardigan jackets and pantsuits, providing a
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METROPOLIS MEETS JUNGLE
Paris: Staged against a murky rain forest entryway, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s Spring show conjured an urban jungle, a motif replicated throughout his presentation. As kitschy as usual, the designer’s prints and graphics were an interesting combination of tropical foliage and skyscrapers, with several toothy illustrated monsters thrown in for good measure. Angular shoulders mimicked Castelbajac’s cityscape silhouettes, resulting
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