MINIMALIST MAGIC
Paris: Minimalist master Phoebe Philo hit a perfect note for Spring, evolving her no-frills aesthetic into another innovative yet wearable collection. Stiff sculptural silhouettes echoed a season rife with references to the 1950s and early 60s, with rounded sleeves and peplum-paneled tops feeling very of-the-moment. A clean white palette was a refreshing transition from the print mashup of late,
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REVENGE OF THE FALLEN
Paris: Alber Elbaz’s version of femininity is usually of a friendly, approachable variety. This season, however, the designer embraced an aggressive, come-hither attitude, with strong shoulders, plenty of slashed slits, and embroidered, rhinestone snakes curling around the neck. Despite the reptiles, the Lanvin woman is no fallen, reticent Eve, but a confident, modern sophisticate swathed in the
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ATHLETIC COLLECTOR
Paris: Isabel Marant knows her customer better than many other designers, providing them with reliable, cool-girl staples season after season. Their loyalty will continue come Spring, with Marant’s new sporty, travel-friendly pieces. Expanding on an ever-present athletic theme, S/S 12 mixed in a hodgepodge of continent-hopping souvenirs; baseball jerseys paired with tie-dye, track pants next to Indian embroidery, tablecloth
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FEMININE NOSTALGIA
Paris: Peter Copping's designs for Nina Ricci felt nostalgic this season, incorporating a range of midcentury silhouettes, retro accessories and floral prints pulled from the archives of longtime Ricci collaborator Zina de Plagny. Dainty lingerie items and details reflected Copping's penchant for femininity and frills, and biker jackets were interpreted for Ricci's ladylike customer. Cosmetic shades and fancy
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THE WARRIOR WAY
Paris: An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx sourced their inspiration for Spring from Africa, resulting in a militaristic, tribal collection. But rather than creating a derivatively ethnic presentation, the designers wove details from their travels into unique and darkly edgy pieces. From shrunken marching jackets with cantilevered frog closures to draped and tucked fringe scarves, each ensemble carefully draped
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RESTRAINED WORSHIP
Paris: Religious aestheticism is not something usually associated with Rick Owens, though it could be recognized in his adherence to a strict, neutral palette, couture construction and long lines. However, for Spring the spiritual world was on full display for the designer, manifested by restrained, high-necked tunics, baggy floor-length skirts and dresses as well as boxy, gathered jackets tied
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VIVA LAS VEGAS
Paris: Christopher Decarnin’s departure from Balmain earlier this year left quite a hole to fill. Would the brand’s signature tight-fitting shapes, ultrashort hemlines and maximum glitz remain? The answer was yes and no. Twenty-six year old designer Olivier Rousteing kept the signature hemlines, the sparkle and the glove-like fits but he added a slouchy, tailored sophistication and a
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Makeup: Alex Box
Hair: Martin Cullen
Nails: Marian Newman for Minx
Makeup
Makeup was led by makeup artist Alex Box who referenced Nikola Tesla, the early 20th century scientist. "It's about electricity and the early forms of it," she explained. Using Minx nail strip and triangles of sticky, double-sided clear plastic, she created white, “floating” eyeliner for the models. An innovative move, this is
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REFINED ALPINE
Paris: Master of wearable Guillaume Henry worked his magic again this season, whipping up an array of flirty ensembles inspired by traditional German garb. Lederhosen and dirndl details were incorporated into the designs of short-shorts, micro skirts and mini-dresses, while charming suit jackets and A-line trenchcoats acted as outerwear. Button-front base layers grounded most looks, and subtle beauty balanced
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GILDED GRECIAN
Paris: Damir Doma brought forth a softer take on his signature layered looks for S/S 12. The collection, teeming with grecian references, was an exploration of drapery and soft structure. Items seemed precious and laid-back at once, with easy shorts elevated in gold lace and suede jackets so supple it was hard to decipher them from the silk underpinnings.
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SCI-FI SIRENS
Paris: For S/S 12, Pugh paraded a bevy of models protected by plasticine latticework jackets, shift dresses, sleeves, wedge boots, and even muzzle collars, all pulled straight from the pages of a sci-fi novel. This disquieting effect struck a balance between armored and bound, a contrast that proved the show’s central riddle. Had Pugh outfitted these models for
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MONOCHROME BOHEMIAN
Paris: Ann Demeulemeester outfitted a shaggy, monochrome bohemian this season, using fringe and ombré to add drama to her long, draped silhouette. Taking a less structured approach for Spring, these pieces communicated a sense of movement, from the swish of floor-length, sheer skirts to the shimmer of dangling silk tassels. The designer’s signature tailoring reigned in all this fluidity,
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SURREAL GEOMETRY
Paris: Surrealism has appeared in a number of collections this month, interpreted via silhouette or appropriated for graphic prints. From exaggerated cloche hats and melting, pop-Renaissance face prints to the unbalanced effect of pairing color blocked, strong shoulder jackets with high-waisted hot pants, Nicolas Ghesquière also brought an absurd geometry to Spring. Liberally mixing his metaphors, the designer reworked
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