GOTHIC ROMANCE
Paris: Yamamoto’s S/S 12 collection expressed a dark romanticism via a preoccupation with sumptuous materials and masses of material. Outsize trains appeared on coats and dresses, while ruffles cascaded from dresses, and outsized hats opened and closed the show. In between came Hester Prynne frocks kitted out with elastic drawstrings and toggles, as well as similarly puritanical or even
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Go brow!
Heavily defined brows are making a statement for Spring/Summer 2012. From thick and arched to bushy and exaggerated, one thing’s for certain: the bolder the better. Makeup artists drew inspiration from supermodels and beauties of decades past, as well as rock musicians and photographers. To achieve this look they used dark eyebrow pencils and powders or black eyeshadow and
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SOFT EDGE
Paris: The most exciting designers are the ones who know when to do an about face and Ricardo Tisci of allover print fame, has done just that for Spring. Solid icy pastels, shimmery blacks and light iridescent sea greens set a vaguely oceanic message down the runways, but the effect was sleeker and sharper than one would normally expect
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IN BLOOM
Paris: Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s first collection for Issey Miyake continued the label's technology-meets-tradition aesthetic, showing clothing that seemed simultaneously organic and technical. Models walked topped by abstract headpieces that evoked exotic orchids or even the mysterious corpse flower, but also perhaps Sci-Fi stewardess uniforms. Cutaway leggings bore abstract geometric patterns that spoke to an innovative printing process, while cape-like tops
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TRADEMARKS REVISITED
Paris: A throwback on multiple levels, the Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 12 show at once referenced the histories of the designer and of runway in general. There was no music; instead, French weather presenter Charlotte Le Bon's voice narrated as models walked the catwalk holding cards listing their look numbers. The collection was practically a JPG retrospective, boasting pinstriped
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ESOTERIC ELEGANCE
Paris: Fresh off his retrospective at Les Arts Décoratifs, Hussein Chalayan found inspiration this season in his own body of work. While the conceptual designer has gradually scaled back on the mathematic and scientific gimmicks that colored his early portfolio, he could not resist a few brainteasers this season. The show was appropriately set within an art gallery context,
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From decorative foulard scarves to Glastonbury's muddy fields, take a look at the best denim inspirations from the S/S 12 RTW shows.
Bottega Veneta
Last week's Bottega Veneta show, according to Tomas Maier, was about technology and handicrafts coming together. That puts it in close company with his men's Spring collection, but where that one seemed to be rooted in the 1960s,
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FLASH FUNCTION
Paris: Christophe Lemaire struck a utilitarian note in his second collection for Hermès, that drew on the brand’s legacy of equestrian leather goods, but that also spoke to a stark contemporary minimalism. Leather and suede were abundant in the form of trench coats, maxi skirts, and even leather covered buttons. Though the collection was colorful, many looks were largely
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LIFE AQUATIC
Paris: Masters of New York cool and founders of cutting edge lifestyle boutique Opening Ceremony Humberto Leon and Carol Lim had a lot to prove as newly appointed creative directors of the Japanese brand Kenzo. From the it-kid turnout including Jason Schwartzman to Chloe Sevigny to the clothes themselves which were bold, wearable and athletic-inspired, it looks like the
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DECON RECON
Paris: On a runway beset with Persian carpets the Maison Martin Margiela designers showed a collection primarily concerned with the deconstruction and reconstruction of garments. Garments exist in a cultural and heavily gendered space, and thus this collection also offered commentary on gender, sexuality, and power. A satin slip dress bore no straps, forcing the model to hold it
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SWEET STANDBYS
Paris: Clearly eager to please their employers and customers alike, Cacharel's newly appointed designers, Ling Liu and Dawei Sun, made a point of incorporating the label's trademarks into their S/S 12 assortment; simple feminine shapes, sweet details, pretty prints and a color palette that mixed pale with vibrant hues were all there. While silhouettes with high hemlines and/or understated
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SPORTY AND SINUOUS
Paris: Comfort was high on the list of priorities for Stella McCartney this season as she took a light and humorous approach for Spring, creating a sporty and sinuous collection. Playful pajama prints and paisleys appeared throughout, updated with curling, asymmetric hems and lace insets, a body-skimming fit proving both fluid and wearable. Loose trousers, easy jumpsuits and
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TABLECLOTH TEXTURES
Paris: In comparison to the sleek, hourglass motorcycle babes of Junya Watanabe’s fall collection, his muses for spring seemed decidedly demure. Still present however, were the designer’s signature leather jackets, this time re-imagined with voluminous ruffled sleeves and cropped bodies for an incongruous effect. Watanabe’s expertly cut trenches also had their moment, their slim, fitted proportions enhanced with curved
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ARCHIVAL ELEGANCE
Paris: Fresh off the hullabaloo of John Galliano’s infamous departure from the house of Dior, Bill Gaytten, took the reigns for a safe yet solid Spring collection amidst rumors of a new creative head swirling everyday. Sticking to classic archival Dior was most likely a strategic move, but was also timely, as the 1950s continue to resurface amidst designers
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LEISURELY LUXURY
Paris: Characterized by a rich palette, opulent fabrics, artful drapery and serpent-like silhouettes, Haider Ackermann's S/S 12 collection spoke to all of the designer's strengths. Ensembles were built around luxurious menswear-inspired suiting separates; elegant blouses, most featuring a veil, hood or ascot collar, were sprinkled in, along with occasional chiffon gowns and mermaid skirts. Fancy paisley and plaid motifs
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