EIGHTIES OBSESSION
Paris: From squared-off Grace Jones hair to leopard print, shiny finishes and clashing palette, Nicholas Ghesquière is advocating an 80s revival. Although the Pre-Fall collection seemed wild at first, even for Balenciaga, a number of covetable pieces emerged; an oversize ribbed sweater, tapered track pants, paneled leopard print jacket and voluminous trench coats. Bright colors and metallics worked best
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A SUMPTUOUS SIMPLICITY
New York: Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s The Row moves on a steady trajectory each season, consistently finding new ways to marry minimalism with luxury and present a refined vision which never wavers. For Pre-Fall they continued to expand, reworking their sought after leather leggings with elastic panels, and introducing rich velvet in the form of loose trousers, burnout
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WHIMSICAL HITS
Paris: For much of her Pre-Fall presentation, Stella McCartney stuck to what she does best: precisely cut, innovative suiting. By now, McCartney’s jackets are legendary, their elongated bodies both flattering and versatile, and she provided many of them in grey tweed as well as monochrome printed brocade. The innovations came by way of slightly wacky repeat graphics, a tapered
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COMFORTABLE PROPORTIONS
Paris: Oversized and often boxy proportions seem to be a growing trend for Pre-Fall, a direction Chloé echoed with bold wide leg trousers, cocoon overcoats and cozy ribbed sweaters. Plenty of texture and pattern warmed up these progressive silhouettes, including shaggy fur and checked flannel, while seasonal camel and cranberry tones popped next to touches of lemon and tangerine.
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SIXTIES SENSATION
Paris: Designer Guillaume Henry has catapulted French label Carven to cult status, his youthful, trend conscious direction drawing new customers and press adulation. For Pre-Fall, Henry continues to find inspiration in the 60s with shrunken cable knit sweaters, a-line miniskirts and cropped shearling jackets that look just at home on today’s twenty-somethings. Styling played a big part in achieving
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MINIMAL OPULENCE
Paris: Opulence is always the watchword at Lanvin, and Alber Elbaz makes luxury look appealingly progressive and feminine, playing with fabrics and construction to create uniquely covetable indulgences. For Pre-Fall the designer was at his best when he kept the silhouettes simple and focused on innovating with materials such as wrinkled oxblood patent leather, and embellishments like twinkling
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URBAN EQUESTRIAN
Paris: Riccardo Tisci explored traditional inspirations for Pre-Fall, incorporating equestrian accessories like knee high leather boots re-worked from a design in his Fall/Winter 2008 Couture collection, fur riding caps, antler pendants and even jodphur pants. Tisci achieved a woodsy texture using felted wool for precisely cut jackets and suiting, while working in a subdued argyle to further the
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SUPERSIZED MODERNISM
Paris: In the same way Phoebe Philo introduced a new look with her exuberant head to toe florals during the Pre-Spring collections, she breaks ground again this week with a fresh take on proportion and fit. Combining the blown-up proportions of 90s streetwear with Céline’s signature luxury, Philo created soft leather track pants, colorblocked cashmere turtlenecks and matched
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COLD WEATHER LUXURY
Milan: High-end outerwear was the focus of Versace’s Pre-Fall message, a season full of slick leathers and shaggy fur. The label gave its signature sexy spin to classic coats, combining motorcross padding with a trench silhouette and shrinking a wool toggle coat into a sporty mini jacket. Beyond these well-executed outer layers, the collection served up schoolgirl minis
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SHEERS AND SKINS
New York: In the hands of Alexander Wang, even basics are never boring, a fact asserted yet again by his latest T by Alexander Wang collection. Affordable, expertly designed and always on-trend, the presentation hit the mark with oxblood denim and leathers, layered cobalt jersey tops, and minimal silk shirtdresses. Wang’s best-selling sheer blouse appeared as well, this
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AUTUMN ARTIST
New York: New label Tribune Standard focuses on wearable wardrobe basics updated with a touch of artistic flair, with creative yet mainstream takes on silk tunic dresses, tanks and printed trousers. Designer Tawfik Mounayer chose an unusual but pleasing combination of autumnal apricot and caramel with bright turquoise for Pre-Fall, a palette which amplified the hand painted prints and
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AMERICAN EXPLORATION
New York: Fashion’s fascination with all things Native American has extended to the Italians for Pre-Fall, emerging in Just Cavalli’s latest collection via a liberal use of feathers, fur and geometric patterns. The label also indulged in more traditional Americana, producing slim pants and dresses printed with a deconstructed take on the stars and stripes, as well as a
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HOMESPUN SUBVERSIVE
New York: Pre-Fall took a homespun turn for Alexandre Herchcovitch, resulting in denim pieces with unfinished edges resembling a tailor’s pattern, bold plaid in shades of brown and camel and outerwear with oversize patch pockets. Both cropped and cocoon silhouettes seemed to be on the designer’s mind, ideas which created standouts like a cape coat embellished with epaulettes, and
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TWISTED TAILOR
New York: Alexander Wang often explores his more serious side during Pre-Fall, allowing his primary collections to extend into a sportier experimentation. This season the designer maintained that trend, concentrating on suiting and menswear influences, albeit with typically edgy Wang twists. Tailored pieces were boxy with knife pleat detailing and off-kilter layering played a crucial role; leather miniskirts topped
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LADY WHO PLAYS
London: Giles Deacon created a rare combination for Pre-Fall, a sophisticated lady who lunches with a quirky sense of humor. Heavy satin created firm luxury, but never looked stuffy due to the sharp silhouette of full skirts, fitted peplum jackets and slim trousers, while playful bird prints and graphics lightened the mood even further. Refined dropped hem dresses
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