POWER PLAY
Paris: For fall, Véronique Leroy offered a softer take on power dressing. Echoing the looks in her spring collection, most shoulders were strong and extended, though some took on a more rounded shape. The foundations of the offering were wear-to-work basics, such as skirt suits, sheaths, boxy jackets, and slim-fitting coats, but innovative materials kept them looking fresh. Mesh,
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A VULNERABLE UTILITY
Paris: Haider Ackermann’s spectacular Spring show was full of drama and a newly delicate nature, something not usually on display for the confident and innovative designer. For F/W 13 he expanded upon this theme of fragility, inspired by the inner vulnerability of his self-assured muses. The results were a gorgeous mix of the military, the masculine and the
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ROMANCE + DECAY
Paris: Set against a somberly beautiful backdrop of wilting flowers in grey scale, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren's latest collection seemed to explore the opposing forces of romance and decay. The first half of the show featured feminine details and a youthful attitude, while distressed effects characterized the second section. The designers set aside their typical tongue-in-cheek antics
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BELLE DU JOUR
Vanessa Bruno, like many designers this season, played with genders, nonchalantly layering menswear suit jackets over feminine minis. The show notes suggested a Parisian girl walking on a sunny winter day in the Luxembourg Gardens. “It’s about the French Parisian girl. I was inspired by the film, Belle du Jour with Catherine Deneuve, set in the late sixties,"
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KISS ME DEADLY
Paris: With vintage hats, mysterious glasses, and an opening passage of black-and-white looks, Tsumori Chisato embraced this season's pervasive film noir theme. Exaggerated proportions and playful prints set her interpretation apart from the others. Among the distinctive silhouettes on display were trumpet shapes and dramatically curved sleeves, and motifs included her signature dots, childlike florals, and wide stripes,
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Biker themes abound for F/W 13. In Paris, the look gets an edge with strong color, clean lines and experimental fabrics. While the look can go a bit tough, nipped-in waists and luxe elements like metallics and furs keep it elegant and feminine. – Sharon Graubard
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YOHJI FOR ALL
Paris: The influence of Yohji Yamamoto and his Japanese fashion compatriots has been rife on the F/W 13 runways, so it's particularly interesting to see what the master himself has to show this season. This was Yohji for all occasions, from the youthful, opening T-shirt ensembles and the hint of gothic lolita in the cute little textured origami
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COOL COQUETTE
Paris: Today was a momentous occasion for Sonia Rykiel, with the debut collection from new creative director Geraldo da Conceicao, who has worked at Miu Miu, Yves Saint Laurent and, most recently, Louis Vuitton. Rykiel tasked da Conceicao with the "creative relaunch of the women's ready-to-wear and accessories collections," in a bid to strengthen the brand's expansion into Asia (last year
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WELL SUITED
Paris: Maison Martin Margiela has long been a fashion insider's brand, but in recent years, with its mysterious namesake out of the picture, a signature fragrance, retail store openings from Miami to Munich and a collection in collaboration with H&M, the Belgian house has veered ever-closer to the mainstream. The F/W 13 collection, built on the fundamentals of tailoring,
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Exploring the use of lingerie as loungewear, designers in Milan and Paris are featuring bras and, especially, briefs in all manners of cozy layered ensembles this season. Coordination is key, as hipsters and boyshorts are being matched with turtlenecks, twinsets and coat-igans in lush woolen fabrics to combat the cold. – Nivara Xaykao
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“No mascara,” has been a popular refrain backstage this season as makeup artists talk about the “handsome” eye. There’s been a lot of statement lips, so the minimal eye complements for a polished but not overdone look. Subtle eye shadow gives depth, but no liner or mascara accentuates the eyelid fold for a modern impression. – Anna Kim
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Raw-edged pleats on a champagne-colored satin skirt looked fresh at Lanvin's Fall 2013 show. The skirt was paired with the an exposed-seam corseted bodysuit, contributing to the deconstructed raw couture feel. –Deirdre Pérez
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LE JUMPSUIT
Paris: Anne Valerie Hash downsized her show this season and invited press into a more intimate catwalk, in a slightly rundown setting. Models walked along a sparkly wall with an antique cracked mirror. The designer returned to her roots of construction/deconstruction and presented a limited collection of only jumpsuits — her trademark. The show was all about contrasts, as the
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We've been fawning and swooning over Raf Simon's latest collection for Dior all morning and slowly uncovering its myriad layers. The collection is littered with intimates influences, from floaty chiffon frocks to robe-like coats. Surreal illustrated ornaments appear throughout – roses climbing up a hem, a shoe tossed against a white expanse, an eye grazing the hip – meandering down
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FORMAL AFFAIR
Paris: An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx presented their most formal collection yet for fall. The Belgian husband-and-wife design duo is known for having an avant-garde sensibility, and that was certainly visible here (see the quirky Cousin It hairdos and asymmetrical outerwear). But there were many straightforward pieces in this season's offering, as well. Tapered trousers, peplum tops, and delicate
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