GET GRAPHIC
New York: Big, bold patterns characterized Christopher Bailey's latest offering for Burberry Prorsum. Stripes, zig-zags, and chevrons made for a collection with plenty of graphic interest. The chevron-pattern coats and jackets in particular made one think of the work of artist and designer, Sonia Delaunay. Another influence was one that Bailey has touched on many times before – 60s
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The motorcycle jacket, like the blue jean, is a fashion perennial, able to be endlessly reinterpreted, reinvented and reinvigorated. For Pre-Fall, some designers built entire collections around cycle culture; others showed an updated biker jacket or two. Interpretations include slim moto pants, sleek coats and plenty of zippers and quilted details. – Sharon Graubard
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LUXE BE A LADY
New York: With boxy tweed jackets and pleated skirts, Oscar de la Renta offered plenty of ladylike separates for Pre-Fall. The midi length was a new element for the designer and looked especially nice for the first look of the show, an A-line dress in indigo tweed. Swingy short-sleeved A-line dresses and boxy shifts also had a
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TAILORED GRUNGE
New York: Plaid separates and slouchy silhouettes demonstrated Olivier Theyskens' commitment to the nouveau grunge aesthetic that he has cultivated since his first collection for the Theyskens' Theory label. But this season, the designer also added in trim, tailored pieces, giving the offering a more pulled-together, grown-up feel. The pantsuit was a key element, appearing with a range of
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TEXTURED SIMPLICITY
New York: Rubberized lace, plush fur, slick leather, pony skin printed with a snake motif. These were among the sensuous materials Reed Krakoff used for his Pre-Fall collection. He wisely opted for simple separates, in keeping with his minimalist aesthetic, which allowed the luxe fabrics to have the attention they deserved. There were variations on the split hem skirt,
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RETURN OF THE MASTER OF EDGE
New York: There has been a void in the New York fashion scene since Andreas Melbostad's Phi label closed three years ago. Whom were the hard-edged, leather-loving fashionistas to turn to? Lucky for them, Melbostad was recently named creative director of Diesel's Black Gold label, replacing Sophia Kokosalaki. The current Pre-Fall collection is his first
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NEW SOPHISTICATION
New York: Rachel Comey pushed aside her usual vintage-inspired designs in favor of a cleaner, minimalist look for Pre-Fall. The result was a sophisticated mix of boxy shells, simple dresses, and slouchy bottoms. The first look, a sleeveless jumpsuit with a tuxedo collar, signaled a menswear inspiration that popped up throughout the collection. Shorts and pants alike appeared with
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ELEGANT EASE
New York: Derek Lam's diffusion line, 10 Crosby, is just a year and a half old, but it has quickly established an identity. It has become known for its laid-back elegance, and it has emerged as the go-to label for pajama pants. Lam has released a version of the pant style in all of 10 Crosby's six collections. Luckily,
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Wine, that most classic of autumnal colors, is showing up in several Pre-Fall 2013 collections seen this week (and was a surprise hit for S/S 13). Tonal color combinations for ensembles or patterns — wine combined with fuschia, purple or shocking pink — make this stalwart favorite look fresh. – Sharon Graubard
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FLING WITH FEMININITY
New York: Known for ovoid silhouettes and asymmetrical shapes that stand away from the body, Maria Cornejo changed it up for Pre-Fall. The designer suggested that she had been toying with "a more feminine look." This resulted in fluttery A-line dresses, silky blouses, and pleated skirts. Wide belts accentuated the waist, an area that Cornejo doesn't typically give
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GOING FOR BAROQUE
New York: Elements of Just Cavalli's Pre-Fall collection looked familiar. There were the signature animal and baroque prints that one has come expect from the label. But this season, Roberto Cavalli and his team added new themes to the mix. First, there was a military inspiration, evident in many of the outerwear styles. The opening look was an
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EASY RIDER
New York: Danny Lyon's The Bikeriders – a 1968 photography book chronicling the lives of Harley-riding bad boys and the women who loved them – provided inspiration for Phillip Lim's Pre-Fall collection. Eagle graphics that recalled the famous Harley symbol appeared on embellished tees and slouchy sweatshirts, and spikes alternated with jewels on decorated collars. A biker-inspired collection wouldn't
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SENSUAL MINIMALISM
New York: In a collection comprised solely of sheaths, coats, shells, and straight skirts (there was not a pair of pants in sight), Francisco Costa continued his ongoing exploration of minimalism. Silhouettes and styles remained mostly the same throughout, allowing him to play with other elements – in particular, texture. Though Costa has been known to experiment with high-tech
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Spotted in S/S 13 and emerging in Pre-Fall collections is the Spencer Jacket. The style began in the 1790s when the 2nd Earl Spencer cut the tails off his tailcoat, and became popular a few years later for Jane Austen-era women. For Pre-Fall these snug tailored jackets are shown in stripes, wool suitings or printed silks, and styled over wide-leg trousers,
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GREAT SCOT
Scotland: Karl Lagerfeld has made a tradition of taking his Chanel pre-collections to far-flung locales in recent years, and this season, his choice of venue was especially compelling. The Linlithgow castle, where Mary, Queen of Scots was born, provided the backdrop for his show. Lagerfeld claimed that the first French poem he learned was about the tragic life of
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