REDEFINING ELEGANCE
New York: When designing his Pre-Fall collection, Thakoon Panichgul told an interviewer that he had been thinking about the meaning of elegance. The great Coco Chanel once famously said, "Elegance is refusal," and it seemed that this statement may have entered into Panichgul's thought process. He is typically not one to shy away from embellishment, but this season's offering
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REPRISING THE HITS
New York: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez used Pre-Fall to revisit some of the elements they introduced in previous seasons. Echos of the painted jeans that the duo put out for F/W 10 were felt in the playful printed pants that appeared throughout the collection. Cutaway jackets and coats from last season also made an appearance, as did
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DEFINED + PRECISE
New York: Fiona Cibani stated her customers' desire for "defined and precise" pieces, and her Pre-Fall collection for Ports 1961 was an attempt to provide them with clothing embodying those qualities. Jackets and blazers were sharply tailored and often lapel-less, giving them a clean, minimalist look, and many pants featured put-together pressed creases. Cibani made up for the
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FREE OF FRILLS
New York: In the past, Gilles Mendel has tended towards airy fabrics and feminine design details, such as pleats and ruffles. His ethereal S/S 13 collection was a perfect example. For Pre-Fall, however, Mendel pushed aside the frills and instead opted for less adorned looks and more substantial fabrics. The heavy metallic jacquard that appeared for a skirt
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A TAILORED ELEGANCE
New York: The fluttery forties-inspired dresses of S/S 13 were replaced by precise tailored looks for what Tomas Maier called his Early Fall presentation. (Commendations to him for ditching the silly "Pre-" moniker.) Pants were clean and sophisticated with pressed creases running down their long, straight legs, and classic trench coats appeared in a variety of tones. Speaking
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LIKE A ROLLING STONE
New York: The Rolling Stones have been making headlines once again. They are celebrating the band's fifty-year anniversary with a set of shows in New York this week, and the New York Times' fashion section just ran a photo series on their style throughout the decades. Diane von Furstenberg also name-checked the group when describing her Pre-Fall
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LAST DAYS OF SUMMER
New York: Though designers tend to gear their Pre-Fall collections toward cooler-weather garments, the items hit stores while summer is still in full swing. With this in mind, Donna Karan presented a variety of pieces that were appropriate for the both the beach and the city streets. There were sporty tank dresses, easy button-ups, and simple A-line
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BEYOND BIKER CHIC
New York: Belstaff's creative director, Martin Cooper, has been experimenting with new ways to reference the label's motorcycling heritage while still creating sophisticated, high-end garments. His excellent S/S 13 collection sparked new interest in the venerable house, and his Pre-Fall offering kept the momentum going. There were nods to elements of biker style with reinforced elbows, quilting, and
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PRETTY GRUNGE
New York: 90s-inspired grunge was the order of the day for the Organic by John Patrick Pre-Fall collection. The first look, a pleated V-neck midi dress paired with chunky black boots, could have come straight from the set of My So-Called Life. Patrick went on to play with proportion, presenting oversized tees, floor-length skirts, and baggy sweatshirts. A pair
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NOTABLE KNITS
New York: Pringle of Scotland has been in a state of flux ever since Claire Waight Keller left for Chloe last year. Alistair Carr was only around for a few seasons, and now the collection is being helmed by the house's design team. Spring was the team's first solo outing, and it proved somewhat problematic, but this time around,
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BEST OF THE BASICS
New York: Following his masterful S/S 13 collection, Narciso Rodriguez went back to basics for Pre-Fall. At first glance, the offering may have seemed like a bit of a let down after such a spectacular Spring show, but closer inspection revealed subtle details that made these basics some of the most covetable around. Rodriguez used diagonal panels
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ALL IN THE DETAILS
New York: Prabal Gurung pulled together inspirations as diverse as vintage Versace ads, Baz Luhrmann's Romeo + Juliet, and his native Nepal for his Pre-Fall collection. Vibrant woven fabrics and geometric prints referenced his homeland, while clean, body-hugging items harkened back to Versace's heyday. As for Romeo + Juliet, the compelling palette of teal, fuchsia, and silver
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DISCO DECADENCE
New York: Jason Wu cited Antonio Lopez and his muses, Jerry Hall and Grace Jones, as inspirations behind his Pre-Fall collection. The designer channeled the decadence of the disco era, which was their heyday. Flared wide-leg pants, body-hugging dresses, and touches of gold all evoked the references, as did the sultry wavy hair and red lips a la Ms.
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COMMERCIAL SPACE
New York: It seems no fashion aficionado can keep from opining about the controversial appointment of Alexander Wang as creative director of Balenciaga. Critics suggested that he may steer the label in a more "commercial" direction. Oh, the dreaded word, commercial. While some may not consider him one of fashion's avant garde, Wang certainly knows how to create items
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