That particularly vivid shade of ultramarine copyrighted by artist Yves Klein as IKB (International Klein Blue) gained momentum for Pre-Fall 2013. The hue, believed by Klein to represent the limitlessness of pure consciousness, is being used for outerwear, dresses, separates and suits. All fabrics work, but velvet seems to intensify the pigment even more. – Sharon Graubard
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Dandy loafers were key for Pre-Fall 13 in all sorts of variations, building a dramatic effect in sleek buffed leathers or exotics, detailed with elongated, sculpted tongues. High-rise platform wedges reference the 90s, while cone-shaped heels bring a modern sophistication. Sheer mesh insets, rich oxblood and crisp white deliver refinement, and gilded rose gold uppers add a youthful edge. – Sharon
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TEXTURE + SHAPE
New York: As Max Mara's younger sister label, Sportmax has more fun while still maintaining the high level of sophistication of its sibling. This season, designer Grazia Malagodi focused on texture and sculptural shapes. Luxurious materials characterized the offering, with lustrous leathers, glossy furs, and chunky tweeds offering a range of surface qualities. Even the prints – a
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HUNKY DORY
New York: It seems 2013 will be the year of David Bowie. His retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London has put his inimitable style in the limelight once again, and designers are taking note. Several have already mentioned him as an influence for their Pre-Fall collections, and Max Mara's head designer Ian Griffiths joined the crew.
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RETURN TO FORM
New York: For S/S 13, Yigal Azrouël surprised his followers with an uncharacteristically minimal offering. The detached hoods and organic silhouettes were quite the departure for a designer who had previously been known for his straightforward sportswear. The first few looks of his Pre-Fall collection – black and stark white separates in precise shapes – hinted that designer
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SIGNATURES REVISITED
New York: For Pre-Fall, designer Ennio Capasa revisited some of the elements that typically define his collections for Costume National. There were biker inspirations, with coats, blazers, and jackets featuring overlapping front panels and zip closures. There was also plenty of black leather. A cropped, double-breasted jacket hinted at a military influence, another common theme in Capasa's work. Color
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STOPPING TRAFFIC
New York: For her first Pre-Fall collection, Lisa Perry stuck with the graphic designs and 60s influences for which her label has become known. This time, traffic signals provided fodder for the patterns. Large arrows were emblazoned onto sheath dresses, form-fitting sweaters, and a sporty raglan-sleeved top. The pieces were accessible and uncomplicated with classic items, such as A-line
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OH BONDAGE
New York: Giles Deacon is no stranger to provocative themes – the perverse sculptures of Allen Jones were a reference for his S/S 13 collection – but he pushed the boundaries with his current Pre-Fall offering, drawing inspiration from the erstwhile British fetish magazine, AtomAge. The magazine often featured women in Latex bondage wear placed in front of serene
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A PROMISING DEBUT
New York: Alistair Carr, the former Pringle of Scotland designer, presented his first collection for McQ this season. Carr drew from McQueen's rich archives, reinterpreting elements for which the late designer was known. Dramatic silhouettes, a McQueen signature, made an appearance here. A surfeit of peplums made for a constructed hourglass shape, while firm fabrics, such as heavy
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FIFTY SHADES
New York: Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs can always be relied upon to offer sexy, skin baring looks. After all, the designers were among the first to jump on the cutout craze several seasons ago. For Pre-Fall, they took seductive to the next level, sending out curve-hugging pieces with attached harnesses and plenty of the aforementioned cutouts showing swaths
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GLAM ROCK GODDESS
New York: Donatella Versace has toyed with minimalism in the past, but for Pre-Fall she went back to Versace's roots, offering seductive fare with plenty of opulent details. The baroque era, a key touch point for the label, inspired the filigreed prints and patterns, while studs and furs gave the looks a rock and roll edge. Donatella cited
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SIMPLY COOL
New York: T by Alexander Wang has come a long way from its humble beginnings as a T-shirt label. This season's offering was composed of far more than simple jersey. There were matte wool suitings, slinky silks, and even luxurious leather and suede. The well-rounded collection included many favorites from seasons past, such as sheer button-ups, leather leggings, and
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SYNTHETIC VS. NATURAL
New York: Nature is common theme in Matthew Williamson's collections, and it predictably appeared in his Pre-Fall offering. What set this presentation apart were eye-popping colors and a sophisticated sense of restraint. "This season I wanted to contrast all the natural, earthy elements of the collection with very clean lines and intense pops of synthetic color," Williamson stated
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DARK ROMANCE
New York: Francois Truffaut's 1968 revenge film, The Bride Wore Black, provided the inspiration behind the Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall collection. Though 1960s influences carried over from last season, the mood was decidedly darker, in keeping with the film's sinister premise. The models' blunt bobs were lifted from Jeanne Moreau, the titular bride, and there was no shortage of black.
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WEARABLE LUXURY
New York: Classic designs made from the finest fabrics characterized The Row's Pre-Fall collection, which the designers described as "wearable luxury." Modest and minimal, the garments included crisp, creased trousers, calf-grazing straight skirts, and elegant outerwear. One element that defined this and every one of the label's offerings was the utter lack of vulgarity. The impossibly high level of
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