YOUTHFUL MINIMALISM
New York: 28-year-old London-based designer J.W. Anderson is on quite the upward trajectory of late. He recently won the Emerging Talent Award at the British Fashion Awards, announced a collaboration with Topshop, and was chosen to collaborate with Donatella Versace on the Versus label. His current collection, which he described as "hyper-strict and minimal" showed that his work is
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WILD ROMANCE
New York: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren mixed feminine details with animal-inspired elements for a collection they called "Wild Romance." The designers have been known to play with exaggeration, and they did so here, adding large pleated flounces to tops and dresses and placing self-fabric bows at collars and hips. The animal influences were expressed through prints and materials.
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INDIAN SUMMER
New York: The golden hues of the waning summer, fading tans, and the changing of the seasons inspired See by Chloé's latest offering. Rust, burnt orange, and a range of pinks were used to express the feeling of nostalgia for summer. The collection's press release also cited London in the late 60s as a reference. Pleated dresses with a
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INTERNATIONAL LOVE
New York: Giambattista Valli imagined an international love affair when designing his Pre-Fall collection. A chic Parisienne meets a New York City boy. The results were a mix of the hyper-feminine looks for which Valli is known (ostensibly the Parisian side of the equation) and more casual fare (our heroine's New York wardrobe). Who would've thought one would see
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An array of sweet hats have emerged for Pre-Fall 13, from rain-hoods and fur-lined aviators to more diminutive berets, beanies and garrison caps. Many styles conjure the Mod 1960s — structured toques and molded equestrian looks, in particular.
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EVERYDAY COUTURE
New York: Pre-Fall is a season during which many designers regurgitate previous designs or focus on time-honored basics. Not so for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli at Valentino. In the whopping 70 looks they presented, not a single one was a throwaway. While elements of the house's heritage were not ignored – there were plenty of the
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FASHION ROCKS
New York: Hedi Slimane has always associated himself with musicians. From his haunting photographs of Pete Doherty to his use of Girls frontman Christopher Owens in his recent ad campaign, the designer has successfully used his relationship with rock stars to give his work a certain cachet. For his second collection for Saint Laurent, Slimane tapped it-girl/singer Sky Ferreira
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LAYERED BASICS
New York: As a former celebrity stylist, Andrea Lieberman knows how to put an outfit together, and she also knows the importance of great basics and layering pieces. For her label A.L.C.'s Pre-Fall collection, the designer offered a range of approachable items that could easily be incorporated into her hip clients' wardrobes. There were more expected items, such as
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BASICS AND MORE
New York: In his rather extensive Pre-Fall offering, Alessandro dell'Acqua presented a range of stylish basics punctuated with standout items. Slim pants, A-line coats, button-up shirts, and pencil skirts provided dell'Acqua's customers with plenty of everyday pieces, while a lime green brocade sheath and beaded shifts were objects of desire. Prints – in particular, a motif featuring triangular
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BEYOND SIGNATURES
New York: Rosella Jardini has a rich heritage to work with at Moschino, and she often references the trompe l'oeil effects and cheeky details that are associated with the label. For Pre-Fall, however, she distanced herself from all that, focusing instead on tailoring and silhouette. Her skirt suits were youthful and short, with a 60s Mod feel, and her
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NEW CLASSICS
New York: Raf Simons's first two collections for Christian Dior have elicited swoons, raves, and hyperbolic statements from the fashion community, and it seems he may have another hit on his hands. For Pre-Fall, the designer attempted to define what he called the "new classics." These included both Dior signatures, such as the Bar jacket, and Simons's own contributions,
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ODE TO THE EIGHTIES
New York: Roland Mouret was remembering Paris in the eighties when designing his Pre-Fall collection. In particular, he had in mind the glamorous women he saw at the Le Palace nightclub, which was the pinnacle of Paris nightlife during the decade. Though elements from the era appeared, the homage was thankfully made in subtle ways. Many jackets
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WEARABLE INNOVATION
New York: Hussein Chalayan is a conceptual designer at heart. Fashion followers remember his past collections, which featured wooden clothing inspired by furniture and electronic garments that changed shape on the models' bodies. In recent years, the designer has been focused on creating more wearable clothes, while remaining true to his innovative spirit. For Pre-Fall, Chalayan achieved a nice
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THIS HEAT
New York: Jonathan Saunders, like many of his London cohorts, made a name for himself with his innovative use of prints. He was, and still is, a big proponent of ombré, which appeared for a range of separates in his Pre-Fall collection, as did a colorful abstract motif. But the real story here was not about prints. Saunders debuted
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KEEPING IT REAL
New York: From his groundbreaking shrunken menswear collections to the dramatic egg shapes he has presented for women's, Thom Browne is known for his directional work. Though many of his designs have made their way into the real world, numerous others were fated to remain inspirational showpieces. But for his current Pre-Fall collection, Browne offered his most wearable
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