STREET BOYS
New York: For his recent Marc by Marc Jacobs collection, the designer added a number of surprise influences — like Oriental florals and the break-dancing swagger of golden age hip hop — to his always-welcome nerd-chic ensembles. This season Marc’s man was really a boy, a street savvy one at home in New York or London, but with just
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RENAISSANCE WOMAN
New York: Roberto Cavalli cited the Florentine Renaissance as the main influence behind his Pre-Fall collection. References to the era were visible in the filigreed prints, the opulent beading, and the show-stopping accessories, but the offering also had a wild side, with a strong emphasis on alluring furs. Both faux and real versions of beaver, stone fox, lapin, and
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PAST THE PRINTS
New York: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon allowed prints to take center stage for their previous collection, but this time around, they opted for a cleaner look. The solid black, white, and blush tones that were used for the first series of looks allowed the viewer to focus on the items' distinct cuts. The tent silhouette was used
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NEW STABILITY
New York: The Croce sisters, Rudy Paglialunga, Sophia Kokosalaki, Marc Audibet. These are a few of the designers who have cycled through the house of Vionnet in recent seasons. It has been something of a revolving door of late, but perhaps Goga Ashkenazi will bring some stability. The Kazakhstan-born billionaire bought the company last year and installed herself as
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FUR REAL
New York: As the descendant of a family of furriers, it's no surprise that Gabriele Colangelo consistently puts out some of the most exciting furs on the market. His Pre-Fall collection was no exception. This season, the designer used black cross mink, ultra-flat astrakhan, and beaver in new ways. Laser cutting techniques were used to make the pelts lighter
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SOFTNESS + SEVERITY
New York: The Maison Martin Margiela design team worked with the label's characteristic severity for Pre-Fall, but tempered it with a range of softer elements. Angular jackets, spare tunics, and unadorned column dresses were among the collection's building blocks. A palette of mostly cream, black, grey, and taupe supported the feeling of austerity. But the offering seemed to
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THE LANGUAGE OF OPULENCE
Paris: A famous photograph of Diana Vreeland lounging in her luxurious boudoir served as an inspiration behind Olivier Rousteing's Pre-Fall collection for Balmain. Vreeland once famously said, "The eye has to travel," and Rousteing took this sentiment to heart, borrowing elements from far-flung cultures and translating them into his own language of opulence. There were obi belts
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BACK TO SCHOOL
New York: At the end of summer, when Pre-Fall collections appear in stores, going back to school is on the minds of many. Appropriately, Yeohlee Teng considered the notion of school uniforms for her current offering. Familiar plaids were used for classic henleys, tailored tops, and modest knee-length skirts. Boxy walking shorts also connected to the theme. As
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AN EASIER APPROACH
New York: Having recently realized that customers tend to purchase his "easier" items, Damir Doma offered simplified looks for Pre-Fall. The elegant draping, exaggerated proportions, and asymmetrical silhouettes of his other collections were present here, but the overall feel was cleaner and more approachable. The sleeves of sweaters and jackets were widened and rounded, with bonded and double-faced
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NATURE VS. GEOMETRY
New York: Wild, lush florals coexisted with controlled geometric shapes for Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof's Pre-Fall collection. The natural imagery juxtaposed with the precision of the geometrics made for an interesting dichotomy and elevated the classic items that the design duo presented. Curve-hugging sheaths, slim pants, and tailored coats were among the many covetable basics offered. Asymmetrical,
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SHE WEARS THE PANTS
New York: Consuelo Castiglioni shifted her focus to tailoring and outerwear for Pre-Fall. Her label, Marni, is typically known charmingly quirky and feminine pieces, but this time around, Castiglioni explored a tomboyish theme. The first section of the collection featured several versions of a straight-leg, pressed-crease pant, some with tab waistbands, others without. There was also a
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Freshly unveiled for Pre-Fall 13, Chanel's Sporran Flask Bag emerged as one of the Scottish-inspired collection's standout accessories. It comes in two sizes and is equipped with a crossbody strap, for hands-free booze hauling.
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HOT CHILD IN THE CITY
New York: A cityscape drawn in Tsumori Chisato's quirky hand appeared as a backdrop for her Pre-Fall collection and as a print for various separates. It seemed she had an urban theme in mind this season. Another print featured cartoonish figures hanging out in apartments, which connected to the idea of being a city dweller. Chisato
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RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE
New York: Religious devotion and innocence were among Sarah Burton's influences for her Pre-Fall collection for Alexander McQueen. Specifically, the designer looked to the humility of the Amish for inspiration. Images of Catholic priests, Orthodox clergy, Audrey Hepburn in The Nun's Story, and Sophia Loren in White Sister also populated the designer's mood board. The resulting offering consisted of
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Riding on the coattails of the latest grunge revival and boudoir craze, slips are not only providing an elegant innerwear solution, but also the perfect antidote for carefully carefree dressing in Pre-Fall collections. Built-up straps and slits give the delicate dress a sporty update; a patchwork of washed silk, charmeuse, velvet and lace trims enlivens the minimalist classic with boho charm. –
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