PASTEL PROTECTION
New York: Thakoon brought modernity to pastels this season, spinning the pale shades into a lovely assortment of felted wool coats with Mongolian lamb patch pockets, paneled cable knit tops and fuzzy miniskirts. Soft, molded protection defined each ensemble, as Thakoon’s textures and delicate palette played against his highly constructed silhouettes. Inflated sleeves, creative layering and touches like printed
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STREET STYLE HIT MAKERS
New York: Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag & Bone are never afraid to go in their own direction. No matter what the designers come up with each season, they always create guaranteed hits for their faithful customer. Known for their tailored blazers, denim and outerwear, Rag & Bone’s Pre-Fall included plenty of versatile options. Gauzy,
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OPTICAL ABSTRACTION
New York: Ports 1961 designer Fiona Cibani presented an artistic riff on newly popular houndstooth for Pre-Fall, inspired by Hungarian painter Victor Vasarely’s exploration of Op-Art. Graphic repeat patterns rendered in rich cobalt and jade heightened the impact of simple long-sleeve column dresses and sharply tailored wide-leg trousers, while intarsia knit body-con sheaths gained dimension via abstract coloring. Clean,
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MIXED MEDIA
New York: Coats and colorblocking were the minimal watchwords of Narciso Rodriguez’s paired down Pre-Fall presentation. Three pieces of outerwear featured voluminous fur sleeves to compliment their slim wool and leather bodies, but these shaggy showpieces didn’t eclipse a handful of citified skiwear separates such as pieced crewnecks and paneled leather leggings. A fitted sheath dress could have felt
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MUTED YOUTH
New York: Youthful yet restrained, Fendi’s Pre-Fall made girlish silhouettes look serious. Focusing on dropped waist dresses and silk blouses, these pieces wouldn’t ruffle any fashion feathers, and as a result, seemed a bit lackluster. A muted palette of ice blue and camel didn’t help elevate even the more interesting items, such as a pieced leather motorcycle jacket, mixed
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GRUNGE, MEET GLAM
New York: Olivier Theyskens’ Pre-Fall collection for Theory had a distinctly glam-rock slouch, as if his grunge muse decided to add some shimmer to her wardrobe. Although the 90s references remained in the form of combat boots paired with babydoll dresses, elongated cardigans and floor length skirts, a dash of daring 70s shine appeared via attention-getting silver trousers,
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CONSTRUCTIVE LAYERING
New York: TSE’s Pre-Fall presentation hinged on dual techniques of constructive layering and molded construction. Newly directed by consultant Brian Reyes, TSE looked beyond simple knitwear and mastered an expanded catalog of separates. From wool walking shorts and boxy windowpane check jackets to trompé l’oeil cable knit trousers and inflated bubble skirts, the collection took softly coordinated workwear in
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TEXTURAL DEVELOPMENT
New York: Reed Krakoff’s elevated modernism is always a lesson in restraint; clean silhouettes, considered embellishments and a primarily neutral palette. For Pre-Fall, however, Coach’s president let his designs breathe a little, exploring emerald green, blush peach and oxblood, as well as moody, abstract circular prints and textural ombré. These expanded colors and added textures gave Krakoff’s work more
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NIP/FLARE
London: Burberry Prorsum’s honed Pre-Fall collection concentrated on the label’s hits; tailored outerwear and a return to a lean, flared silhouette; a sharp look warmed up by cozy fall materials. Slim pencil skirts, skinny trousers and body-hugging knits were softened with a chocolate palette and soft velvet, nubby tweed and touches of fur. Unexpectedly heeled chukka boots were lined in
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BOMBAY ATELIER
Paris: With all of the cultural references that play a part in fashion, it becomes a waiting game to see which nation is up next on the rotation. For Pre-Fall, Karl Lagerfeld filtered the rich sartorial history of India through his Parisian lens to surprisingly refreshing effect. Encompassing all of the Chanel classics, from tweed suiting to cap-toe boots
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PATTERN PLAY
Milan: M Missoni’s Pre-Fall vision was full of hourglass silhouettes and retro appeal, with the house’s signature dimensional knits receiving a youthful update. Presented with insouciant edge, striped cardigans and t-shirts were the perfect foil to full pleated skirts, while a tonal combination of checkered hot pants and matching cropped jacket broke away from Missoni’s usual wavy patterns. Geometric
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ELEGANCE NOW
New York: Although Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Fall presentation did not push the envelope, his work was reliably elegant and seasonally festive. When concentrating on neutral patterns and muted, classic colors, the collection served up some lovely must-haves: a patchwork houndstooth coat, an oxblood distressed silk cocktail dress, and a gorgeous silver goddess gown. But in addition to these
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MODERN SAMPLER
New York: DKNY looked a lot less urban for Pre-Fall 2012, nearly abandoning recent forays into color blocking and stripes in favor of frilly lace and Celiné-inspired head-to-toe florals. Thankfully, some of the label’s sleekness remained, mostly communicated via bright, monochromatic blouse and skirt combinations, a dimensional, linear scarf print, and leather pieces such as flirtatious A-line skirts and
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RUNWAY TO RANCH
New York: Michael Kors’ inspirations are often writ large through his collections, built upon simple, functional nods to a particular time or place. Pre-Fall was an exploration of the Southwestern rancher, albeit a pared-down, fashion-conscious cowgirl. The heavy masculinity of leather harnesses, belts and boots was tempered by flirtatious, asymmetric-hem dresses, cinched at the waist and clinging from
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ADDED VALUE LUXURY
New York: Jason Wu’s established sense of luxury was evident in his Pre-Fall 2012 collection, communicated clearly through intricate jet beading, slick leather and classic camel hair. Slim, professional separates were more successful than a handful of slightly dowdy full skirts, and Wu was at his best focusing on well-cut pieces for daytime, such as cropped plaid overcoats,
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