WIT MEETS WINSOME
New York: The Band of Outsiders fan is attracted to the charm of menswear basics cut for women; slim fit blazers, relaxed trousers and small collar button downs. Pre-Fall delivered these must-haves with an extra dose of designer Scott Sternberg’s signature humor, a quirky, intellectual approach communicated by pairing striped sweatpants with a cocoon coat punctuated by an
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UPSCALE TREK
New York: Proenza Schouler’s interim collections always seem to include sportier elements than their regular spring and fall presentations, featuring practical, wearable silhouettes and detailing. Pre-Fall looked even more robust than usual, combining a rich jewel tone palette and sturdy fabrics such as tweed with activewear items like windbreakers and drawstring sheath dresses. Layering was key here, most often
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UPDATED EDGE
New York: Diane von Furstenberg famously built her empire on a dress, so it's no surprise frocks figured heavily in her Pre-Fall presentation. However, a refreshing amount of youthful elements were introduced to the collection, resulting in an edgier direction for the traditionally conservative label. Progressive additions included a judicious use of grommets and black leather as well as
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VERSATILE ADVENTURE
New York: Phillip Lim always finds the perfect merger of fashion and function, from his beloved bags to his coveted outerwear. For Pre-Fall, the designer introduced an added element of kitschy fun, mixing graphic pop-art knits with his typically versatile tapered trousers, boxy tweed jackets and reversible quilted coats. These playful tops were also among the brightest pieces in
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FEMININE GEOMETRY
New York: Doo.Ri is a label built on draping techniques, the designer often concentrating on body skimming jersey and silk to achieve a feminine but modern signature style. Pre-Fall broke this languid mood a bit, introducing detailed laser cutting to embellish neck and hemlines, and incorporating abstract, all-over patterns for matched sets and jumpsuits. Structured pieces, like a sleeveless
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A DELICATE WEB
New York: With all of the fanfare surrounding the upcoming film adaptation of The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo, darker themes have a secure place in popular culture, including gritty urban fashion of the kind worn by the movie’s protagonist. Nicole and Michael Colovos of Helmut Lang are no strangers to this direction, but consistently succeed at updating
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After Spring's beautifully crafted pointed toe pumps, Pringle's Pre-Fall selection shows a much edgier direction for next season.
Almond toe lasts marry beautifully with thick rectangular heels. A slight hidden platform adds height, balancing out proportions of the sleek seamless vamps. The idea of changing the classic ankle boot silhouette comes across very clearly with overlay panels that wrap the counter
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URBAN EVOLUTION
New York: Vera Wang has slowly evolved over the years into an increasingly street-savvy designer, leaving her more feminine instincts behind for touches of edgy, casual dishevelment. Pre-Fall was a perfect example of this evolution, focusing on a mixture of dresses and structured outerwear accessorized with slouchy knit thigh highs and long gloves. Layering was key to achieving a
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TODAY’S PRINCESS
New York: Alice Temperly’s latest collection made it clear her designs are fit for a modern princess; indeed, her work has been chosen by the world’s newest royal, Pippa Middleton, on more than one occasion. Having also dressed many members of Hollywood’s court, Temperly kept both the red carpet and the throne in mind with Pre-Fall’s stately looks. From
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REFINED COORDINATION
New York: M. Patmos presented a tightly edited collection for Pre-Fall, distilling each look to capture the label’s signature minimal luxury and provide their fans with easy, coordinated separates. Relaxed, pleated trousers ranging from camel and black to a refreshing poppy red grounded nearly every ensemble, cropped to the ankle length so popular this week. Cashmere knits on top
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SHEER SITUATION
New York: BCBG’s Pre-Fall presentation appeared demure at first glance, a sweet collection of long and mid-length dresses constructed from floaty chiffon in a variety of striped and folk-inspired prints. But with closer inspection the dresses possessed a revealing use of sheer textures, from jagged slashes of black lace inserts to barely opaque layers of silk. Halter necks dangled
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ARTISTIC LICENSE
New York: Maria Cornejo has a more established aesthetic than many designers, a unique, signature shape and technique that carries through no matter what the current trends. This consistency could become monotonous in lesser hands, but Cornejo knows how to update without diluting her message. For Pre-Fall the usual staples remained; draped tunics and loose, tapered pants, but
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MAKING THE MOLD
New York: The concentration on hourglass silhouettes has been almost uniformly consistent this week, with each designer presenting some type of feminine, curvy outline. Francisco Costa’s version for Calvin Klein Collection took the hourglass into 2012 via substantial wool and leather, crafting skirt suits with nearly invisible matching belts, or topping a crewneck cashmere sweater with a pleated
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PRETTY PLATOON
New York: Thakoon’s secondary line took silhouette cues from the designers’ main collection, inflating many pieces with a soft volume. But the similarities ended there, diverging into a military influenced femininity. Merging practical, uniform inspired touches with bright florals, abstract color blocking and blurred ikats, Thakoon explored whimsical, flirtatious jumpsuits, lightweight anoraks, and camouflage trousers. The insouciant mix of
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POWER HOUR
New York: Donna Karan’s return to power suiting was a palate cleanser for Pre-Fall with a robust look at feminine, office-worthy fashion. Strong-shouldered suit jackets, oversize coat dresses and slim, tapered trousers harnessed all the authoritative influence a woman can command. Nipped at the waist, both Karan’s suiting and dresses made the case for hourglass silhouettes, using exaggerated bows
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