PERFECT PITCH
Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are consummate color experts, a fact proven by their new collaboration with Kenzo over the past few seasons. Choosing just the right tones at just the right time, the designers have caught the attention of the fashion industry and consumers alike, bringing optimistic Kelly green, bright hazard orange and rich navy to relaxed
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REVIVING THE NEW LOOK
Paris: Classic Dior was back for Pre-Fall via a crisp update of the house’s iconic silhouettes. Jackets and coats were cinched at the waist for an hourglass effect, often layered over slim knit turtlenecks with elongated arms which created a youthful look. Substantial knits were woven into both flirtatious shrug sweaters and windowpane check cardigans, while bell
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A LOOSENED GRIP
Milan: Gucci struck out in a new direction for Pre-Fall, one of relaxed softness without the hard-edged seduction usually de rigueur at the Italian label. Even the motorcycle jackets came in a delicate, fawn-colored suede, a fitting compliment to draped maxi skirts and tonal poppy flower prints. Pantsuits were fluid as well, with many pairs of wide-leg silk
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VICTORIAN MIDNIGHT
Paris: Viktor & Rolf projected a grown-up Wednesday Adams for Pre-Fall, accentuated by a trompe l’oeil full moon background as well as the clothes themselves. Buttoned-up, Victorian and most certainly gothic, the collection was also delicate and feminine, featuring sheer layers of lace, dangling tie-necks and cascading ruffles. A tiered waterfall of silk spilled down the front of one
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BOHO NO MORE
Milan: Peter Dundas left behind the bohemian gypsy he worshipped during the spring collections and focused on a much more restrained and sophisticated muse for Pre-Fall. This woman prefers a slim, body conscious silhouette, though she still looks for vibrant, hallucinatory prints. Dundas’ take on the classic Pucci motif worked well combined with simple, long sleeved sheaths and
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EXUBERANT ATTITUDE
London: Matthew Williamson lives for color and print. Building his name on dimensional patterns and party dresses, the British designer’s work is always reliably optimistic and built for girls who want to have fun. For Pre-Fall that enthusiastic attitude translated into skinny fit satin trousers in wild swirls and wallpaper prints, metallic dresses with tonal lace sleeves, chevron patchwork
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BOLD APPROACH
Paris: Youthful femininity has summed up the efforts of Valentino designers Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri for the past few seasons, but for Pre-Fall the label took a bolder approach by choosing a saturated, bright palette in place of pastels and nudes. Concentrating on classic Valentino red and a vibrant coral, the collection hinged on leather skater
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FANTASTIC FURS
Paris: Texture and pattern were the key elements of Giambattista Valli’s Pre-Fall presentation, the former achieved with a prodigious use of fur and the latter via numerous mixed motif designs. For Valli’s signature sleeveless sheath dresses, geometric shapes played against leopard prints, cinched at the waist with wide brocade self-belts reminiscent of the Japanese obi. Outerwear and trim was
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JAZZ AGE PRINCESS
Milan: For her Pre-Fall presentation Alberta Ferretti was squarely in step with one of the most prevalent recent themes in fashion, the Jazz Age. The designer took a very straight forward look at the roaring twenties via sheer layers with sequin embroidery or fringe trim, fitted cloche hats and cozy cashmere cocoon coats. Flapper dresses formed the foundation
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SURREAL BOURGEOISIE
New York: Peter Som followed a common path this season by finding inspiration in an offbeat classic film. Surrealist Luis Buñuel's The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie became an apt starting point for Som’s take on ladylike jackets, printed silk pajama sets and sleeveless dresses, all featuring quirky patterns and pops of bright color. The designer toughened up
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CHINA DOLL
London: Preen’s Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton are becoming known for innovative prints and fabric treatments, techniques which formed the cornerstone of their Pre-Fall collection. Centering on a gorgeous print inspired by a classic china pattern, the designers created serene silk dresses and cashmere turtlenecks emblazoned with an intricate repeat, then carried the china’s cobalt blue over to trome
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THE ELEGANT TOUCH
Paris: For Pre-Fall Rochas designer Marco Zanini hit many of the trends popular this season: olive green, shiny textures, cocoon coats and full trousers. But Zanini wasn’t producing run-of-the mill fashion, he was experimenting with rich fabrics, abstract patterns and metallic treatments that lent the collection a modern elegance. A shimmering silver finish and abstract watercolor print elevated
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AGENT PROVOCATEUR
New York: The young designers of New York’s Cushnie et Ochs are transitioning from ones to watch to established label, dealing in a style of progressive femininity so appealing to urban customers. For Pre-Fall many of their models could have arrived straight from the set of a Robert Palmer video, clad in body conscious halter dresses, leather pencil skirts
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PLEASINGLY PLUMP
Paris: Louis Vuitton took a whimsical view of 60s inspirations popular right now, infusing classics like cocoon overcoats and matched skirt suits with cartoon touches. Exaggeration was key, from enlarged proportions and playful animal prints in brushed mohair to childish peter pan collars rendered in white fur. Grounded by dresses, the collection maintained a round silhouette throughout, adding
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KALEIDOSCOPE SHINE
New York: Prabal Gurung continued his fascination with reflective surfaces this season, though the shine was dialed down for a number of elegant pieces suited to daytime. Instead of experimenting with embellishment, Gurung focused on a graphic kaleidoscope print in sophisticated tones of plum and black, a design which added dimension to drop waist dresses, pantsuits, leather bomber jackets
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