It's all about unleashing your femininity while on a tour in Russia. We're talking about Charlotte Olympia's Pre-Fall 2012 collection, of course.
Olympia's inspiration for this selection is seen clearly in the fun floral prints as well as the adorable Babushka Doll ornaments. Her signature platform serves as base for elaborate uppers in suede with leather rosette appliqués, strappy nude sandals
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Pre-Fall Collections are always a great preview of what we can expect to see on the Fall Runways, and based on we've seen the upcoming season looks promising.
Below are Stylesight's picks of the best items from Pre-Fall 2012 Runway and Presentations.
Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake updates the classic ankle boot with novel color blocking patterns and constructions. Round single sole lasts looks
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SPORT SIMPLE
Paris: Lacoste’s sporty heritage received a sleek reinvention for Pre-Fall, arriving as a more polished and less colorful look. Black, grey and white comprised the foundation of simple pieces like slim trousers, a-line minis and parkas, while a judicious and clean use of poppy and tangerine resulted in ombré crewneck sweaters and colorblocked silk tops. Designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista
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HIGH LOW COUNTRY
New York: Fendi furs are legendary, a hallmark of luxury since the house’s inception in 1925, but in Karl Lagerfeld’s hands the shaggy overcoats and vests receive new life. Pre-Fall brought an edgy combination of loungewear and sophistication, pairing elegant sequin t-shirts with jersey drawstring jogging pants or topping cable-knit mini shorts with a draped shearling jacket.
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FRESH MOLD
Paris: Compared to Elie Saab’s previous work, Pre-Fall was downright restrained with nary a windblown chiffon train or slashed neckline in sight. Monochrome ensembles in cosmetic nudes opened the presentation, establishing the molded, body conscious silhouette which defined the season with paneled cap sleeve sheath dresses, round shouldered cashmere capes and tailored tuxedos. Whether above the knee or hitting
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MOODY WEIGHT
New York: In contrast to Ter et Bantine’s colorful Spring collection, Pre-Fall was a dark and moody change of direction full of mossy textures and deep shades of olive and sable. Glossy patent leather and slick pony hair contrasted with brushed alpaca and felted cashmere, stitched together into paneled skirts and simple coats. Proving rich materials don’t have to
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EVERYDAY UPDATE
New York: Cacharel’s target customer has always been on the younger side; women who are concerned with a wardrobe that is cute, but also well-fitting and practical. For Pre-Fall the label’s new designers Ling Liu and Dawei Sun kept these needs in mind with a presentation comprised of youthful, unembellished cashmere coats in vibrant blues and soft apricots, abstract
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SERENE COMFORT
New York: Serene comfort summed up Albert Kriemler’s Pre-Fall collection for Akris, a cozy parade of soft outerwear and sophisticated but minimal separates. The designer imagined a wardrobe for easy, no-fuss travel, the type of languid trip his customer might make by train. With such a scenic view in mind, Kriemler printed landscapes on many of his items, from
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THE SOFT SURREALIST
Paris: Sonia Rykiel started Pre-Fall with surrealism, channeling the twisted humor of the movement into dimensional patterns and soft focus separates. Hallucinatory swirls and graphics gave texture to simple overcoats and floaty dresses, producing a blurred effect for brushed cashmere and sheer chiffon. The surrealist elements didn’t stop there, extending into unusual color combinations like cinnamon and coral
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STREET SWAGGER
Paris: Set against a metallic brick wall, Gaultier’s Pre-Fall quickly established an urban mood, showing a series of looks imbued with tough attitude via slick black leather, slouchy menswear and chunky accessories. Bright fuchsia was a foil to shiny black, but the shade became aggressive as chunky fur trim and layered voluminous silk. After several Asian-inspired pieces, the presentation
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COY SOPHISTICATE
Milan: In comparison to Massimiliano Giornetti’s bold experiment with stark houndstooth last Fall, his latest work moved in a warm and demure direction, though one still built upon pattern and texture. Deep cranberry and plum added sophistication to coy pleated miniskirts paired with slim cardigans, while argyle and plaid looked rich embroidered with crocodile panels. Skins played an essential
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NOIR REPRODUCTION
Paris: John Galliano designer Bill Gaytten stuck close to the label’s established aesthetic for Pre-Fall, choosing old-school glamour with a noir sensibility. With a very literal presentation inspired by Tippi Hedren in Hitchcock’s The Birds, Gaytten even projected a menacing shadowy aviary behind his model, providing window dressing for neat skirt suits, pintucked dresses, lace inset blouses and a-line
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BUILDING A MYSTERY
Milan: Roberto Cavalli eschewed the wild prints and colors he is known for this season, opting instead for subtle satin, slick leather and feathered fur in a deep palette of black, oxblood, teal and mustard. Flash was traded for straightforward opulence and textures were pleasingly rich and layered, with the Cavalli woman appearing more covered up than usual
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MADCAP MUSE
London: Inacio Ribeiro and Suzanne Clements designed their Pre-Fall collection with a kooky, playful customer in mind, one who favors a retro Palm Beach aesthetic. In keeping with such a woman, prints and embellishment were key, from abstract inkblots in a riot of yellow, cherry and teal, to dimensional trompe l’oeil sequin necklaces embroidered onto a lace shift. Intarsia
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BLANKET-GARDE
Paris: Pre-Fall meant outerwear for Maison Martin Margiela, specifically the type of coats and jackets which qualify as serious defense against the elements. Wool blankets and goose-stuffed duvets were draped and tailored around the body, wrapped to the neck with oversized folds and panels, or trailing behind with cape hems. The slouchy, relaxed fit extended into trousers and suiting as
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