1748 posts tagged Paris in ALL BLOGS


Damir Doma -

COMPLEXITY RESOLVED Paris: Damir Doma’s first collection for women seemed like a visual demonstration of Constantine Brancusi’s philosophy, “complexity is simplicity resolved”. Possessing clean lines and fluid shapes, the looks were both minimal and clever. Every ounce of style was squeezed out of the collection’s natural ingredients — the drape of the fabrics, the willowy frames of the models’ bodies, the ...
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Balmain -

STAYING THE COURSE Paris: Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin has a formula and he’s sticking with it. This season, he continued the bold-shouldered, ultra-short disco dresses and military-detailed jackets that made him an instant star several seasons ago. His signature skintight pants were carried over as well – this time in black leather, gold lamé or gold painted brocade – but the ...
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Nina Ricci -

PRETTY PARISIENNES Paris: For his second outing at Nina Ricci, Peter Copping seems to have become more familiar and comfortable with the house’s archives. The ultra-femme looks felt classic and Parisian, yet subtle adjustments to details and silhouettes brought it all up to date. Tightly packed floral appliqués decorated sheer tops and formed dimensional panels on dresses, and bits of fur ...
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Rick Owens -

GOTH CRAFT Paris: There’s always something very much the same and something very different about a Rick Owens show. The designer’s goth-chic aesthetic consistently pervades his work in a confident and powerful way, but each collection still feels like a discovery. This season, Owens played with silhouette, introducing both more voluminous and slimmer shapes into his work. The show opened with ...
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Limi Feu -

TOUGH ROMANTIC Paris: Unlike her father, Yohji Yamamoto, Limi Feu's clothes are typically more urban and rock 'n' roll than they are romantic. For F/W 2010, however, the designer seemed to have a harder time resisting pretty-feminine concepts, with ultra-sentimental silk, lace and crochet dresses hidden beneath the tough outerlayers. Even the masculine double-breasted jackets and coats had ruffles, tiers, ...
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capes

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Balenciaga -

FRIENDLY FUTURISM Paris: When the future is cited as an inspiration in fashion, the default result is a mostly black (or white) palette, angular silhouettes and lots of leather or neoprene. Nicolas Ghesquière’s magic, and what sets him apart from the legions of other future-obsessed designers, is his refreshing optimism and his daring experimentation with unconventional construction techniques and innovative techno ...
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DEVASTEE -

SKELETON CREW Paris: Orphelie Klere and Francois Alary's Devastee line is one of the more youthful and independent collections of Paris fashion week, each season offering a flirtatious but refined exercise in black and white separates. For F/W 10 the palette remained stark, but greater dimension was achieved via mixed prints and graphics, and a wide range of floral, animal prints, ...
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Gareth Pugh -

DARK DRAMA Paris: While Gareth Pugh doesn’t seem to be moving away from his signature hard-edged aesthetic any time soon, he has loosened up quite a bit over the past two seasons, introducing more wearable looks and relaxing his silhouettes. Pugh continues the positive trajectory this season with flowing wide-leg pants and a fluid asymmetrical coat with frayed edges. Balancing out ...
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Anne Valérie Hash -

NEW GREATEST HITS Paris: Anne Valérie Hash’s latest collection seemed to be a reprise of her past few shows. She took an aspect from each – the jumpsuits she has been working with for several seasons, the iridescent organza from S/S 10, and the multicolored sequins from her most recent couture collection – and re-imagined them for Fall. The jumpsuits were ...
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Peachoo + Krejberg -

EDGY FEMININITY Paris: Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg have built their label on the premise of mixing edginess with femininity, and this season’s collection upheld their aesthetic. Sharply tailored cutaway jackets featured oversized hook and eye closures, hinting at punk (or Amish) influences, and leather coats with monkey fur collars looked perfect for the urban warrior. A limited palette of grey, ...
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fuzzy logic

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Rochas -

SWINGING SIXTIES Paris: Marco Zanini's 1940s ingénue from spring has fast-forwarded to the 1960s for fall and has fled west from Indochina in search of fun. The muse for the designer was a composite of the two heroines in the 1969 film Cactus Flower (played by Goldie Hawn and Ingrid Bergmen) and the collection again skated the line between adolescence and ...
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sport

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Dries Van Noten -

NEW NEW LOOK Paris: Using Dior’s New Look hourglass as a starting point, Dries Van Noten re-sculpted the iconic silhouette into shapely jackets and full skirts that embodied his distinctive brand of elegant ease. Outerwear and dresses were fashioned out of supple fabrics, with soft box pleats creating ergonomic volumes at the hip, waists gently defined with curved seams, and plenty ...
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