POP SQUARED
Paris: Paul Smith’s F/W 13 presentation opened with the type of brash color combinations the designer is known for, this time an optimistic Miami Vice combination of Caribbean blue and greens paired with sunny marigold. Throughout the collection the jackets were cut square and the pants came pleated, perhaps as another nod to the 80s, while patterns veered into
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URBANE ALPINE
Paris: Veronique Nichanian’s latest collection seemed to riff on a common theme at recent shows – the intersection of outdoor interests and elegance. Like other Parisian shows, Carven and Louis Vuitton, this Hermes collection combined adventurous alpine elements such as retro-ski sweaters and hiking boots, with the most sophisticated of double-breasted suits. Some items, like a beautiful astrakhan bomber
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As I scan through my loose-leaf scribbles of notes for the day, a few words pop out: bricks, spiders, bruised vegetables. Yikes! Okay, while they all had a part in the Interfilière trend forum, they do not exactly represent the sum of the show.
From the forum to the conferences, the word "synergy" kept on coming up. The convergence of intimates
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BRAVE NEW WORLD
Paris: Purportedly inspired by sci-fi thriller Gattaca and its exploration of conformity via eugenics, Kris Van Assche showed a decidedly minimalist, futuristic collection that slowly revealed its subtle richness with each model that strode down the catwalk. Opening with business suits that on first blush looked like standard, if perfectly-cut, Wall Street fare, closer inspection revealed hidden zipper
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DELIGHTFUL MATURITY
Paris: The tone of Miharayasuhiro’s latest collection moved away from Spring’s punky, rockabilly vibe, heading in a more grown-up direction. As such, elegant embossed wool suits came layered atop fuzzy vests and peacoats lined in swaths of shaved fur, their sophistication only enhanced by expert and innovative detailing. Beyond small touches like asymmetric cable knit lapels and velvet collars,
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A SINISTER HUSH
Paris: Riccardo Tisci pulled his punches with his latest collection for Givenchy, showing a rich but subdued presentation of charcoal wool suiting with sharp shoulders and tonal shirting, leather accented duffel jackets and even a touch of classic argyle. The designer’s seductive tension still simmered beneath the surface, evident in rich shimmering tweeds, zipper embellished velvet suits and
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SPLIT PERSONALITY
Paris: Kris Van Assche brought together the twin themes that seem to be on every menswear runway this season, tailoring and sport, marrying these references with more than simple styling tricks. Instead, the designer’s F/W 13 suiting and sweats came spliced together as full hybrids. Dressy blazers dovetailed into logo jersey knits, bombers mixed with toggle coats and warm-up
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ALL OPULENT EARS
Paris: Rei Kawakubo showed a collection dripping with texture, pattern, and color. She draped damask overcoats and sport coats over lush, baggy corduroy trousers, and hung mariachi-style tail balls from blazer hems while attaching puffballs to oversized hoodies and shirts. True to her style, she showed unexpected materials like seersucker, and shot this cold weather collection through with
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HOLY WANDERERS
Paris: Gothic goddess Ann Demeulemeester kept her trademark aesthetic in place for F/W 13, while exploring new ideas about layering and draping. Her men strode the runway swathed in romantic layers of wool felt outerwear, embroidered suits, and cotton dress shirts that evoked wandering preachers from some strange American West. Models wore bowlers trimmed with feathers and black mesh
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HIGH-END HOBO
Paris: Junya Watanabe continued his exploration of Americana and workwear with his latest collection that showcased models bundled in chore coats, dungarees and overcoats, all embellished with patchwork and repairs. Watanabe beefed up a mostly limited palette of grey, black and khaki with hits of royal blue and navy, but all colors remained true to a subdued work-ready palette.
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NO TRICKS NECESSARY
Paris: The visual trickery and subversive hallmarks of the Maison Martin Margiela label can sometimes prove puzzling, but for F/W 13 these cryptic elements were kept to a minimum, leaving room for simple and directional tailoring. Still, innovation ruled, finding one-pieces made to look like suiting, patchworked cardigans with a recycled flair and a handful of fur and
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SNOWCATS
Paris: Kim Jones showed a collection of sportswear basics, suits, and formalwear, all highlighted by subtle use of luxe materials, exotic prints and precisely classic tailoring. Standard double-breasted overcoats came highlighted by tonal leopard print that evoked the elusive snow leopard, while other coats featured similarly patterned fur trim on the collars. Other snow-ready gear included cropped, fur-hooded bombers, puffer
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MOUSTACHE MEN
Paris: Yohji Yamamoto continued his tradition of showing precisely tailored, if unusual, garments that included kilts, full tartan suits, and overcoats that closed with bondage straps. Curiously, every model also sported a range of false moustaches, ranging from dramatically curled to big and brushy. Yamamoto also played with scale as is his wont, showing double-breasted blazers in both cropped
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HEIRS IN REVOLT
Paris: Dries Van Noten’s fresh and airy take on grunge debuted at his S/S 13 womenswear collection, a theme which carried through to menswear for Fall. But where his feminine angst was diaphanous and layered, the masculine version carried weight through thick tweed t-shirts, leather cargo pants and tapestry hoodies. Slouchy and full of baroque drawing-room patterns, heirloom
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CAVEMAN FUTURSIM
Paris: Rick Owens' menswear often goes in one of two directions, either ascetic monk or apocalyptic nomad. For F/W 13 it was the latter, with modern versions of the arctic costumes worn north of the wall on HBO’s fantasy series Game of Thrones, complete with lace-up snow boots, fuzzy gloves, and “wildling” hairstyles. Built for a harsh environment, the
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