DESERT HALLUCINATION
Paris: The Burning Man festival has inspired many, though usually the artistic results are found within a drum circle or on a sculptural installation rather than a Paris runway. Manish Arora managed to translate his trip to the psychedelic desert free-for-all into an elegant rumination on wide open skies and DIY, steampunk innovation, printing tranquil clouds and woven abstractions
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A DELICATE BALANCE
Paris: Barbara Bui's fall collection was about the balance of femininity and edginess, frailty and toughness. Using both slick leather and delicate lace, the designer sent out angular, slim ensembles that looked cosmopolitan and current. There was quite a bit of skin on display, as cropped tops and cutouts were both prevalent, but legs were always fully covered,
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SHREWD RESTRAINT
Paris: The anticipation and, for some, skepticism about Alexander Wang’s inaugural collection as head designer at Balenciaga, was palpable this season. But regardless the debate, it would be difficult to assail what the young American came up with for F/W 13. The pieces were uniformly refined and restrained, stripped bare of Wang’s own trendy downtown it-girl aesthetic and replaced
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HAUTE HAREM
Paris: Olivier Rousteing's latest collection for Balmain delivered the expected dose of exaggerated proportions, intricate embellishments, and serious glamour. He riffed on ideas that he had proposed in previous seasons, such as S/S 13's broad shoulders and Pre-Fall's harem pants. The elegant drapery was used for more than just the pants, however. It also appeared for short, tulip-shaped skirts
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A ROMANCE WITH BACKBONE
Paris: Ann Demeulemeester has indulged in more and more romanticism over the past few seasons, finding softer silhouettes and even a vintage-influenced femininity. For F/W 13 the looks were uniformly floor-grazing, and cotton or sheer chiffon nightshirt dresses were tempered with plenty of backbone via excellent slim cut military coats, lace-up combat boots and stiff, exaggerated leather
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BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY
Paris: It’s been eight years since H&M presented a catwalk show created by their own in-house design team, and not by guest designers. H&M put up an elaborate show and invited the press to the Musée Rodin, which was was divided into 15 different rooms. There was live music and champagne as the guests mingled from hallway to living
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THE LADY IN THE HEADLIGHTS
Paris: Fuzzy textures crafted from bouclé and mohair are very popular on the runway this month and Fall may be the most abundantly pastel season yet. Creative director Guillaume Henry chose to indulge in both, as well as must-have statement blanket coats and the recently revived Mary Jane, for his F/W 13 Carven presentation; each concept
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MIDNIGHT IN THE GARDEN
Paris: For her latest Rue du Mail collection, Martine Sitbon presented darkly romantic looks in a moody palette of black, navy, purple, and rich browns. Large fabric appliqués depicted orchids and were placed on the bodices of sheaths, woven tops, and boxy jackets. The image of the orchid also appeared for jacquard separates. The zig-zag pattern that
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SHE'S A LADY
Paris: Nicola Formichetti may never fully shake his associations with Lady Gaga, but this season it seemed the designer shifted away from the theatrical, outlandish creations that he procured for her, as well as from the overtly sexy vibe he has conjured during his time at the helm of Mugler. Like many other designers this season, Formichetti made
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THE FUTURE OF MINIMALISM
Paris: With clean, angular lines and techy materials, Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista presented his futuristic take on minimalism for fall. Shoulders were the focal point, with dropped seams or extended shoulders helping to create the architectural silhouettes. Double-faced wool crepe, bonded leather, and an iridescent coated organza facilitated the shapes. Engineered knits also made an appearance
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MAD VOLUME-IST
Paris: Gothic inspirations never go away for Gareth Pugh and what is more classically creepy than a mad-scientist toiling away in an isolated, wintery retreat? Switching gears from last season’s modified stab at romanticism Pugh was back to austere, tailored drama with elongated white lab coats edged in a stark branch print layered over full a-line gowns—one part twisted
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Dries Van Noten's F/W 13 collection was a harmonious combination of romantic frocks and tailored menswear, expertly intertwined into covetable separates that made a graceful transition from day to night. A sharply tailored pencil skirt got a luxe touch from dainty feathers and carefully placed crystal embellishments. — Marissa Stuart
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CHIC RIGHT NOW
Paris: As the creative director at Hermés, Christophe Lemaire knows luxury and for his own collection he approaches the concept with a quiet confidence resulting in lasting and lovely foundation pieces. Infused with the sort of military equestrian references common for Hermés, Lemaire’s F/W 13 season was far more understated and gained significant momentum with refined, tapered trousers,
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SOLEMN AFFLUENCE
Paris: Marco Zanini’s latest for Rochas expanded on some of the silhouettes from his Spring collection, maintaining the big, voluminous skirts but adapting them for day with a retro, elite-housewife interpretation. Where last season was light and somewhat sporty, as if designed for a glamorous game of tennis, Fall was covered up and proper with ribbed knit cardigans and
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