LE JUMPSUIT
Paris: Anne Valerie Hash downsized her show this season and invited press into a more intimate catwalk, in a slightly rundown setting. Models walked along a sparkly wall with an antique cracked mirror. The designer returned to her roots of construction/deconstruction and presented a limited collection of only jumpsuits — her trademark. The show was all about contrasts, as the
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We've been fawning and swooning over Raf Simon's latest collection for Dior all morning and slowly uncovering its myriad layers. The collection is littered with intimates influences, from floaty chiffon frocks to robe-like coats. Surreal illustrated ornaments appear throughout – roses climbing up a hem, a shoe tossed against a white expanse, an eye grazing the hip – meandering down
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FORMAL AFFAIR
Paris: An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx presented their most formal collection yet for fall. The Belgian husband-and-wife design duo is known for having an avant-garde sensibility, and that was certainly visible here (see the quirky Cousin It hairdos and asymmetrical outerwear). But there were many straightforward pieces in this season's offering, as well. Tapered trousers, peplum tops, and delicate
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ROCK ON
Paris: Instead of her typical bohemian fare, Isabel Marant went an edgier direction for fall, sending out rocker-chic looks in a moody palette of black and grey with a little cream mixed in to lighten things up. Small studs, metal cabochons, and silver paillettes decorated the shirttail-hemmed miniskirts, drape-y tops, and wrap skirts. The embellishments built to a crescendo
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SOPHISTICATED KITSCH
Paris: Though this is just his fifth collection for Christian Dior, creative director Raf Simons has been responsible for many a swoon for his elegant designs for the label. Fashion followers should prepare their fainting couches once again, as Simons' fall collection was his most soigné yet. The designer reprised the elegant gathering and buoyant silhouettes that have characterized
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Raf Simons decorated his beautifully cut silhouettes at Dior, using illustrations and embellishments to add an alluring touch to sculptural suits and dresses. Ink-drawn portraits seemed borrowed from René Gruau (the long-time illustrator for the house of Dior), while embellished shoe motifs suggested Andy Warhol. — Marissa Stuart
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MAD FOR PLAID
Paris: Yoshiyuki Miyamae, Issey Miyake's creative director, got in on the tartan trend for fall, but his ebullient iterations of the pattern were unlike any we've seen this season. Blown-up and colorful, they packed a playful punch. The plaids appeared for boxy coats, slim pants, boyish button-ups, and even the famed Miyake pleated tops and dresses. Furry pile
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INNOVATION + TRANSFORMATION
Paris: Technology and innovation have always been key elements in Hussein Chalayan's collections, so it was a surprise when he opened his fall show with a series of looks made from humble denim. There were full skater skirts and slim jeans, but the most notable were the wide-leg pants with exaggerated turned-up cuffs that reached nearly to the
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HUNGRY LIKE A WOLF
Paris: A wholesale resurrection of the 80s has appeared on a number of runways this season, culminating in stretchy bodysuits, wide angular shoulders and a tapered silhouette, as well as primary hued colorblocking and graphic animal prints. Roland Mouret’s F/W 13 had all of these elements and more, his inspiration rooted in Catherine’s Deneuve's chic vampire character
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GOOD SPORT
Paris: Having recently won the coveted Woolmark Prize, Belgian designer Christian Wijnants is one of Paris Fashion Week's most promising new talents. Appropriately, his fall collection was based on knits, of both the fully-fashioned and cut-and-sew varieties. Elasticized drawstring waistbands, zip closures, and heather grey jersey implied an activewear inspiration, while coats with drop-waisted self-belts had a Japanese feel.
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REMEMBERING THE EIGHTIES
Paris: The first look said it all. The tiered party dress looked as if it had been borrowed from Molly Ringwald's wardrobe from Pretty in Pink, and the chain and pearl slogan necklaces recalled Like-a-Virgin-era Madonna. It was an eighties revival, Lanvin style. Though full skirts, a jolting hot pink tone, and power shoulders were direct references to
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Alexander Wang’s highly anticipated debut at Balenciaga revealed a restrained version of his namesake collection while channeling the signature cocoon shapes from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s iconic archive. A black funnel-neck mohair sweater covered in thick white paint called to mind a poetic yet stark vision of of cracked earth or distressed plaster. — Marissa Stuart
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SLOUCHY & SEDUCTIVE
Paris: Sharon Wauchob left the prints behind for Fall and played exclusively to her strengths with a terrific, quiet collection of mixed textures and masculine meets feminine frisson. Knife pleat midi skirts were a pivotal item, rendered in transparent metallic chiffon as well as delicate lace, and gauzy silhouette cutouts gave leather dresses a seductive screen effect. A
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YOUNG LOVE
Paris: Philip Glass's "Two Movements for Pianos," played by sisters Katia and Marielle Labèque, provided the background music for Peter Copping's emotional Nina Ricci show. His designs are always intensely feminine and rich, but this season those qualities seemed amplified. A saturated red tone provided a romantic element, appearing for the lipstick, some of the prim Mary Janes, and
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