HYBRID STATEMENT
Paris: The outerwear category has seen a lot of action on the runway this season, as designers put more thought and effort into statement coats and jackets as the focal point of Fall collections. Coats doubling as dresses have been particularly popular and Chitose Abe cemented the importance of this must-have with her Sacai presentation. From mixed velvet and
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MOONAGE DAYDREAM
Paris: For her second collection for Paco Rabanne, designer Lydia Maurer reprised house signatures and 60s silhouettes, but sharp tailoring and a controlled color palette made the looks feel of-the-moment. Rabanne's classic chainmail was a necessary element, and Maurer used it well. The best iterations were slim little dresses with shirt collars. They looked youthful yet glamorous. Trim pantsuits
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MODERN DIVERSITY
Paris: Giambattista Valli cited “urban attitude” as his direction for F/W 13, but his muse was as comfortable in creamy utility parkas and distressed knit tops as she was donning elegantly draped Grecian wrap skirts and satin cocktail dresses. This adaptable nature felt modern—Valli’s customer has a diverse sensibility and an appetite for the slouchy cool of a metallic
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RELAX & UNWIND
Paris: Stella McCartney followed two paths during the course of her F/W 13 show, opening on the type of pinstriped creative suiting she is known for before moving into relaxed knitwear and evening looks. Each group was approachable and realistic, ranging from wrapped felted wool jackets and coats embellished with a touch of pleated or flared femininity, to
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French design duo, Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec have released a book that reveals over 800 personal drawings made by the brothers between 2005 and 2012.
The Bouroullec brothers are known for their collaborative interior and product-focused work with brands including Camper, Vitra and Kvadrat.
Comprising hundreds of images and sketches drawn using ink, pencil and felt-tip pens, Drawing unveils a very intimate,
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At Celine's Fall 2013 presentation in Paris, a clean-lined wool dress featured tied sleeves that hugged the waist. The garment itself had a repurposed feel, as if it had once been a coat. –Deirdre Pérez
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RENAISSANCE ROCK
Paris: In fashion's game of musical chairs, Riccardo Tisci is sitting firm at Givenchy, where it was recently announced he has extended his contract as the brand reportedly moves into "expansion mode". In his eight year tenure, the young designer has completely reinvented the Parisian house and each season brings another surefooted collection that evolves Tisci's sexy-cool signatures
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BLACK OUT
Paris: Spring's super-sheer collection must have been a hit because Akris continued to bare-all for F/W 13. With a uniform-like strict black palette, designer Albert Kriemler took us from the 9 to 5 with neat pantsuits, tweed skirts, mini capes, element-fighting cowl-neck knits and wool pea coats. Then, he headed to the nightclub, where those daring enough don sheer body-stocking dresses
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ARTISTIC DISCIPLINE
Paris: Twisting, shirring and a more modern cut were Bill Gaytten’s main messages for F/W 13, the collection another confident step away from his predecessor’s bombastic style and an effective exploration of the “disciplined silhouette” he described in the show notes. Jackets and outerwear were particularly special, comprised of folded little jackets with nipped waists and wide strap closures
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FAST FORWARD
Paris: For F/W 13 Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz did an about-face from his mannered Spring collection, turning out clothes that were far more punchy and trend-conscious. Ladylike skirts remained important, infused with movement from their carwash pleats and done in punchy pool blues or refined cream, but this time they were paired with modern knit tops with oval sleeves
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FEMME WITHOUT THE FUSS
Paris: Clare Waight Keller has done a lot to revive and hone the Chloé brand in the past few seasons, working on establishing a balance between girly ruffles and more directional structured must-haves. F/W 13 saw that dichotomy come into play more than ever with grown-up, yet sweet pieces that looked serious without losing their innocence. Key
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TAILORED ELEGANCE
Paris: One can always expect precise tailoring from a Costume National collection, but this season, it seemed to play an even more important role. Fluidity and movement were at a minimum, making control the offering's key element. Designer Ennio Capasa used the traditional pantsuit as a jumping-off point, then tweaked the details to make it feel fresh. He slashed
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NOUVEAU RICHE
Paris: Andrew Gn looked to the Art Nouveau movement for inspiration for his opulent fall collection. The elegant yet clean lines of the style were an excellent compliment to the rich fabrics and luxe embellishments on display. Gn used several techniques to express the Art Nouveau patterns, including leather and velvet appliqués, contrast trim, cloqué designs, beading, and quilting.
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RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE
Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have referenced Asia in previous collections for Kenzo. Japanese tigers appeared for S/S 13 and returned for Pre-Fall, but this season, the designers opted for a more luxurious inspiration – the opulent temples of India, Nepal, and China. The theme proved excellent fodder for the label's signature prints. Leon and Lim started out
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