Anyone who thinks that Giorgio Armani's work is "safe" needs to take a serious look at the designer's latest exhibition, Eccentrico. Unveiled after his latest collection at the house's Milan headquarters, this sprawling retrospective features 40 dazzling looks, in addition to a myriad of interesting accessories. Hats made of fans, tons of beading, Lady Gaga's famous metallic costumes from 2009,
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RELAXED EMBELLISHMENT
Milan: Maurizio Pecoraro’s S/S 13 collection followed the trend in Milan this season for embellishment with sequins and crystals, but his version was refreshingly low-key and relaxed. Elongated and slouchy tanks, collarless jackets, loose skirts and sporty shorts were luxuriously beaded, with a neutral pumice hue edged in ombré plum making the pieces appropriate for everyday. There were brighter
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THE CRISP PAJAMA
Milan: Roberto Musso’s primary message for Spring was a vote for crisp pajama dressing and he updated the trend with structured kimono jackets, tonal stripes and cropped trousers. Artsy swaths of watery colorblocking gave accompanying dresses a bohemian look, but coupled with the designer’s constructed tailoring, including cropped blazers, the collection remained refined and grown-up. Voluminous bell-shaped and
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A SWEET DEBUT
Milan: Andrea Incontri made his debut on the Milan schedule with optimistic and full-throated florals, using these head-to-toe blooms for an aesthetic that was bold rather than girly. Tonal mixtures of cranberry and cherry looked festive for satin shirtdresses and skirts, while teal cabbage flowers were interestingly blurred when printed on forest green cotton poplin. Incontri had more
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ENTICING TEXTURES
Milan: For his third season as designer of Genny, Gabriele Colangelo presented a collection based on rich textures and geometric patterns. The leathers were buttery and smooth, and tailored wide-leg pants in the material were lovely. Dimensional jacquards and cloqués harmonized with luxe metallics and a dreamy shade of teal. Most of the looks featured a contrast waistband that
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THE INNOCENT BOHEMIAN
Milan: The exuberance of vacation locales is always a factor for Luisa Beccaria and this season her destination was the Brazilian state of Bahia, a place which inspired a sweetly casual and beachy vibe. Tailor-made for the Juniors market, Beccaria’s cotton eyelet peasant dresses were flirtatious and charming, with floral mesh panels and stripes that looked innocently
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SIMPLY CHIC
Milan: Husband and wife design duo Piero and Miriam Cividini presented a simple yet chic spring collection with subtle details that gave it character. The first look of the show, a classic and sophisticated A-line coatdress, set the tone. The following looks continued in that vein. There were trim collarless jackets, color blocked sheaths, and slim jacquard pants. Lace
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From sunset colored ombré hues to aquatic-inspired accessories like goggles and visors, designer Angela Missoni seemed to be influenced by the water this season. Pushing the boundaries beyond the traditional zigzagged raschel knits that the Italian brand is famous for, the designer played with the concept of 3D textiles, most impressively demonstrated through graphic organza layered over matching patterned knits,
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COLD SHOULDER
Milan: Gianfranco Ferré is a house in transition and current designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron are choosing to look to the future with modern tailoring and sharp cuts inspired by the work of photographer Guy Bourdin. In stark black and white, their collection was graphic and streamlined, focusing on a handful of key items, including asymmetric vests, wrapped
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ETHEREAL CRAFT
Milan: With featherweight fabrics and pale tones, Roberto Cavalli's spring collection opened on a light, ethereal note. Even leather pants, intricately slashed by lasers, had an airy, weightless feeling. Cavalli kept that sense of lightness as he introduced prints and darker tones. In addition to the more expected leopard and snakeskin motifs, there was a swirling sketchy print that
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NINETIES REVISITED
Milan: The dream of the nineties is alive in…Milan? Dan and Dean Caten channeled the more flamboyant aspects of the decade for their spring show. Models pranced down the runway striking theatrical poses, and their overtly sexy looks recalled Moschino and Versace in their heyday. The problem was the Catens didn't seem to have anything new to say. Their
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A REFRESHED FOUNDATION
Milan: Equestrian inspirations may be somewhat expected from a brand like Salvatore Ferragamo, but Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti made the trend his own for S/S 13. Concentrating on leather and outerwear, Giornetti crafted a variety of trench coats featuring contrast lapels and grommet belts, as well as sexy leather trousers laced up the sides and crocodile tunic tops.
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