QUILTED UTILITY
Milan: Last season Italo Zucchelli celebrated the American roots of the Calvin Klein label, infusing a slew of iconic staples with his own tech-savvy and sport-conscious aesthetic. For F/W 13 the designer gave these influences free reign, crafting a presentation of militaristic utility coated in rubberized finishes, quilting and mesh. Key shapes were rectangular and strong, with large cargo
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HIGHLAND HYBRIDS
Milan: Thom Browne’s off-kilter hand was immediately recognizable at the F/W 13 Moncler Gamme Bleu presentation, which found his models fighting a faux snowstorm kitted out in Highland tartans, fur-tail waist packs and thick cable knit outerwear. But although the theatrics of tradition served as Browne’s smokescreen, the modern hallmarks of the Moncler brand arrived in full force via
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EARNEST CHARMER
Milan: Miucca Prada asserted her latest menswear collection was about classics and in the presentation many staples could certainly be found. Slim cropped trousers, patterned over coats, crewneck sweaters and easy one-button blazers could suit any climate and indeed, nearly any modern era. But for F/W 13 it was Prada’s styling, as usual, which set these basics apart, her
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THE GREAT ERASE
Milan: Throughout Tomas Maier’s understated F/W 13 Bottega Veneta collection what he left out became as important as what he chose to highlight, the serene mood hinging on the smallest of details. Monochrome ensembles in camel, navy and black looked almost blank due to covered buttons, while even leather jackets with subtle cargo pockets had an interesting erased
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CLASSICS DONE KITSCH
Milan: When mining the archives at Burberry Prorsum, designer Christopher Bailey has a lot to work with, with the classics of this legendary label providing a solid foundation for any modern innovations. This season he titled his show “I Heart Classics” and riffed on what Burberry does best - outerwear. The silhouette was skinny but squared at the
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WORSHIPFUL PROLETARIAT
Milan: The ecclesiastical nature of Dolce & Gabbana’s design aesthetic lived on for F/W 13, but the designers weren’t limited to reverential opulence this time around, instead choosing silhouettes and styling appropriate for the proletariat. Oversized and wide-sleeved tops printed and embroidered with the Virgin Mary were given a casual slouch tucked into the season’s high-waisted and tapered trousers,
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AESTHETIC CONSTRAINT
Milan: Some designers flourish under strict constraints and Neil Barrett surely falls into this category. For F/W 13 he whittled his palette to anemic proportions, limited to basic neutrals and a pop of cherry as well as a uniform silhouette of skinny trousers topped by round shoulder jackets and coats. But somehow the results were never boring, due in part
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TOUCHABLE LUXURY
Milan: Somber grey dominated at Ermenegildo Zegna this Fall, but the mood was far from drab due to material innovations and mixed, layered textures. Tone-on-tone patterns were created with the label’s staple alpaca, while marled knits mixed with quilted nylon shells for a sporty coziness. In fact, knitwear was the unexpected standout this season, as Zegna’s traditional suiting gave
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THE DIRECTIONAL CONSERVATIVE
Milan: Debuting her second menswear collection after returning to the label she founded, Jil Sander’s F/W 13 presentation was a confident case for classically minimal outerwear. Although the designer included several pops of berry red, emerald and cobalt, the primary message was for a simple grey flannel both as material and color. Boxy suiting and overcoats featured ghostly
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Short hair alert! As we saw from S/S 13 shows (Rick Owens, Margaret Howell, Creatures of the Wind, etc), hair lengths are getting shorter in a variety of stylish cuts. These Joan-Of-Arc/grown-out mushroom/blunt bob/asymmetrical styles are taking over the streets from London to Shanghai. Take a look. (all images from Stylesightings.com)
London:
Milan
Shanghai
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The latest flagship store from REDValentino has opened in Milan, a gorgeous exercise in ornate minimalism. Designed to mimic a wonderfully surreal home, this three room boutique was inspired by the dreamy world of fairy tales. Valentino creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli commissioned artists Nikki Nye and Amy Fleury of Atlanta's acclaimed Paper-Cut-Project to create intricate wigs for mannequins,
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