(FULL)SKIRTING THE ISSUE
Milan: It seems there may be a trend brewing in Milan. Just hours after Prada's masterful collection hit the runways, Fiona Cibani sent out similar 50s-inspired grey flannel skirt suits and A-line coats for Ports 1961. Though Cibani's offering later diverged from Prada's, the initial similarity was remarkable. In addition to the full skirts and killer coats, Cibani
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AN OFFICER AND A GENTLEWOMAN
Milan: The Dsquared² boys love a bit of a Victor-Victoria vibe and F/W 13 was no exception, offering up MGM Grand-worthy masculine tailoring, vampy skirt suits and cocktail hour outfits in equal rotation. Flanked by dashing men in uniform, models clutching cigarette holders channeled Marlene Dietrich—herself a star at pulling off both double-breasted suits and marabou-trimmed gowns
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Miuccia Prada’s F/W 13 collection revealed a harmonious mix of contrasting elements for a fresh take on soignée elegance. A tailleur in emerald green twill wool is trimmed with luxe fur cuffs, and gets an unexpected sporty touch with deep rib-knit insets. — Marissa Stuart
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ELEGANCE, REDEFINED
Milan: How is it that every few seasons, a Prada collection will come along and turn everything one thought about elegance on its head? When faced with the genius of one of Miuccia Prada's fully-realized ideas, all other things seem to fall away. That was the case with the designer's current fall collection. She achieved the near-impossible, putting out
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HOTHOUSE FLOWERS
Milan: Known for his painterly prints and crafty piecing, Antonio Marras stuck to his winning formula for fall, presenting a range of compelling motifs and an intriguing mix of textures. He started the show with florals, a motif he has used frequently in past collections, but this time Marras mixed them with images of wooden trim. It gave the
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CONFIDENT ECCENTRICITY
Milan: Alessandro Dell’Aqua cited the eccentric Little Edie of Grey Gardens as his starting point this season, an influence which could be seen in the mohair intarsia knits, photo print wallpaper florals and heirloom brocades. But Dell’Aqua’s girl was far more confident and flashy than Edith Bouvier Beale, her cropped metallic trousers fitted tight and her turtleneck sweaters cinched
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FAR EAST KITSCH
Milan: Roberto Cavalli put a youthful spin on classical patterns for his F/W 13 Just Cavalli collection with a kitschy interpretation of baroque, Asian-themed motifs punctuated by cartoon tigers, flames and graphic leaf swirls. A riot of print mixing was key throughout, serving up long-pile striped fur alongside leopard spotted velvet burnouts or golden foulards paired with stained
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PLUSH COMFORT
Milan: Plush furs have been a key element of many runway shows for the F/W 13 season, but none have looked as comforting and cozy as those at the heart of Max Mara’s Bauhaus-inspired collection. The focus, as always, was on outerwear, which was pushed to the very limits of softness via voluminous teddy-bear furs in a natural warm
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WARRIORS OF THE FUTURE
Milan: Karl Lagerfeld’s latest collection for Fendi was entitled “Icons Unchained,” and the F/W 13 looks were certainly brash and unrestricted, full of the label’s signature furs remade with punky energy. Collaged, spliced and colorblocked, shaved fur silhouettes were simple and rectangular with round shoulders, while bottoms appeared sporty and young, made up of kilt miniskirts or
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TAKE IT EASY
Milan: Daniela Gregis may not be well-known outside her native Italy, but if you're a fan of soft deconstruction, the Japanese school of designers and artisinal, handcrafted clothing, you'd do well to get aquatinted. Gregis' studio lies outside of Milan in the ancient Piazza Vecchia in Bergamo, and an autonomous vision combining pastoral and fine art influences (she often
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RECKLESS ROMANCE
Milan: Romanticism always looms large for Francesco Scognamiglio, his muse a young, elegant and slightly demure sentimentalist. Fall saw the designer toughen up, while maintaining a sense of fantasy with simple ruffled silk blouses and retro pleated trousers. His daring moments arrived with a stark black and white animal print, sexy knit crop tops and fur collar jackets as
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VINTAGE GRUNGE
Milan: Several designers have cited the style of chic women over 60 as an inspiration this season, looking to both eccentric octogenarian fashion mavens and their own grandmothers. Although Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Fall No.21 collection had its roots in 90s grunge, there was a fair amount of vintage resurrection too, an elegant version of the thrift shop look popular during
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DELICATE BY NATURE
Milan: For fall, Alberta Ferretti presented the delicate, feminine looks for which she is known, while also including tailored pieces to provide some structure. Fluttery chiffon and filmy lace dresses and tops will be familiar to her clientele, but Ferretti gave them wool skirt suits and embellished coats to round out their wardrobes. Nature, a theme common in
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DANGEROUS FEMININITY
Milan: Frida Giannini's Gucci collection started Milan Fashion Week off with a powerful, sexually-charged romp. "The Gucci women seduces with her dangerous femininity," read the show notes. There was certainly a surfeit of seductive danger in the lacquered python separates, bondage-y PVC turtlenecks, and severe, waist-nipping darts. Extended, sharp shoulders showed this woman meant business. Exoticism is an idea
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"I have absolutely no idea and no desire to describe myself. I am interested in humanistic aspects, but you can't work with morals. I try to design things that are true to themselves and not too influenced by marketing factors, things are for people, because my clients are people, not industry." – James Irvine to Designboom
It is a very sad day for the design
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