BORROWED FROM THE BOYS
Milan: Designer Umit Benan is relatively new at Trussardi (this is just his fourth collection for the label), but his strong roots in menswear have given his offerings an androgynous edge that has brought new life to the venerable house. This season, Benan borrowed a windowpane pattern from menswear, using it for slouchy flannel trousers and a
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RICHNESS FROM POVERTY
Milan: There's sure to be a lot of talk surrounding Tomas Maier's latest collection for Bottega Veneta. Dyeing strips of wood and straw and shellacking them to his elegant sheaths, he stated that his goal was "to create embellishment out of poverty." Edges were often left raw, and what looked like scraps of crumpled chiffon were used as
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MASTER CRAFT
Milan: Gabriele Colangelo’s Spring collection was a sophisticated and graphic interpretation of the designer’s artistic aesthetic, full of clean silhouettes as well as splattered ombré fades and directional transparency. F/W 13’s craftier look was no less artistic, but it was somehow more approachable, particularly the nubby, hand-knit wool pieces with raw, natural fringe in creamy tones. Touches of shredding
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HIGH-GLOSS PUNK
Milan: Donatella Versace may not be the master of reinvention, but she certainly knows how to bend a theme to her will. Swiftly abandoning Spring’s bohemian groupies, the designer fully committed to another famous subculture for Fall, treating punk to just as much sizzle. Stripped clean of any grit, this was Sid Vicious by way of a high-end Sunset
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ZIP TO IT
Milan: Jo No Fui's F/W 13 collection has many of the hallmarks of Italian luxury: Sumptuous calfskin and furs, earthy shades of camel and chocolate and cozy cashmere. But the clothes themselves—patchwork leather separates, clean satin cocoon dresses, and deconstructed biker jackets—are more in step with a downtown New Yorker or a Left Bank Parisienne and put the
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FIT FOR A PRINCESS
Milan: With its light knits, satin bolero jackets, prim pencil skirts, and pretty chiffon layers, the F/W 13 Aigner show was fit for a princess. The very proper day-wear, which also included slim taffeta pants and an embroidered fur coat, would be the perfect attire for royal appointments, or simply a day out shopping for the kind of well-manicured
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THE EIGHTIES RESURRECTED
Milan: The 80s have been resurrected many times over in the past few seasons, but Paolo Gerani’s translation for F/W 13 may have been the most literal renewal yet. Hewing to a boxy, wide-shoulder silhouette that tapered to the knees and ankles, the collection had all the graphic banality beloved during the yuppie decade. From two-tone colorblocking to
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Layered necklines looked fresh and alluring in Fiona Cibani's F/W 2013 collection for Ports 1961. Here, a raspberry-toned turtleneck sweater over a white pullover peeked out from beneath a precise flannel dress with a clean bateau line. –Deirdre Pérez
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TEXTURAL INTEREST
Milan: The first look in the fall Sportmax show – a rich brown fur coat with a grid-like pattern – set the mood for a collection based on texture and geometric shapes. Head designer Grazia Malagodi repeated that fur grid for a jacket and later included glossy, curly fur, which was used for a chic skirt suit and a
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DIGITAL TRAVELER
Milan: Against a backdrop of swirling digital lights, Veronica Etro sent out futuristic interpretations of her label's signature looks for fall. The famous paisley prints were now interrupted with curving colored lines or morphed into kaleidoscopic mirror images. Other motifs were obscured by black lines and squares, giving them a pixilated effect. In keeping with the digital-age theme, the
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CHANGING OF THE GUARD
Milan: With gilded insignia, sashes, medals, and equestrian helmets on display, British formal military dress seemed to be the theme behind Rosella Jardini's latest Moschino collection. There was also a nod to Scotland with numerous takes on the classic tartan, in addition to a handful of kilts and sporran-inspired bags. The show began with a series of
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NEW NOIR
Milan: The film noir inspirations that have been emerging this season become more prevalent as each day passes. Today, designer Izumi Ogino added Anteprima to the growing list of labels to embrace the story. With a fog-filled runway, Ogino sent out a range of darkly romantic looks in moody tones, punctuated by blazing red. Following Prada's lead, many of
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(FULL)SKIRTING THE ISSUE
Milan: It seems there may be a trend brewing in Milan. Just hours after Prada's masterful collection hit the runways, Fiona Cibani sent out similar 50s-inspired grey flannel skirt suits and A-line coats for Ports 1961. Though Cibani's offering later diverged from Prada's, the initial similarity was remarkable. In addition to the full skirts and killer coats, Cibani
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AN OFFICER AND A GENTLEWOMAN
Milan: The Dsquared² boys love a bit of a Victor-Victoria vibe and F/W 13 was no exception, offering up MGM Grand-worthy masculine tailoring, vampy skirt suits and cocktail hour outfits in equal rotation. Flanked by dashing men in uniform, models clutching cigarette holders channeled Marlene Dietrich—herself a star at pulling off both double-breasted suits and marabou-trimmed gowns
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