MODA MOD
Milan: The Mod 1960s has served as a key inspiration for designers over the past few seasons, and though the era's influence is beginning to wane, it is still in the zeitgeist. For fall, Salvatore Ferragamo designer Massimiliano Giornetti returned to Mod, but his take on the trend was darker and more sophisticated. With a palette of black, rich
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RANDOMNESS VS. CONTROL
Milan: The randomness of nature versus the precision of geometry seemed to be an idea behind Marco de Vincenzo's fall collection. The prints in the show were based on marble, with all its haphazard colorations, but the other patterns, which were pieced onto the clothing or punched into the cloqué fabrics, represented concentric diamond shapes and controlled zig-zags.
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HOPE FLOATS
Milan: It has been a rough couple months for the Missoni family. The company's CEO and designer Angela's brother, Vittorio, has still not been found after the plane he was on disappeared in Venezuela. But the company has been moving forward, despite their certain pain and anxiety. Missoni went ahead with its menswear show last month and presented its
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JEWEL OF THE CROWN
Milan: Religious reverence came around again as it usually does for Fall at Dolce & Gabbana, this time interpreted as more royal than rustic. Opening on dramatic Renaissance mosaic print dresses, the collection quickly established the crown as it’s symbolic throughline with heavy gold headpieces an accessory for throne-ready crystal embroidered dresses as well as the grey
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Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni delivered a darker collection than usual for Fall 2013. Salt-and-pepper tweed was spliced into box pleats with raw edges, made alluring by chiffon inset panels that showed off just the right amount of skin. –Deirdre Pérez
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COMMITTED TO THE CURVE
Milan: Giorgio Armani’s latest show for his Emporio line had a monochrome softness that obscured the complexity and breadth of the collection; Fall’s pastel tones and light neutrals creating a calm hush of lovely, sophisticated separates. From the beginning the silhouettes were curved, moving from wrapped, off-the-shoulder dresses into tapered tulip trousers, relaxed blazers, culottes and cap
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EMOTIONAL WEIGHT
Milan: After several print-heavy seasons, Consuelo Castiglioni chose a more austere path for Marni, stripping away the retro repeats and sparkly paillettes in favor of moody neutrals and spectacular, tailored furs. Coats, as always, were highly covetable and formed the centerpiece of the F/W 13 collection, from darkly swirled astrakhan with wide, heavy swaths of mink at the hem
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BOHO INNOCENT
Milan: Playful and light, Fall at Emilio Pucci was pure Marianne Faithfull sweet bohemian, absent the darker elements of the Woodstock era and concentrating on the pastel optimism of a carefree romantic. Sheer swiss dot lace blouses with bow ties became demure when covered up by fluffy, voluminous furs in candied shades of mint or baby pink and even
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OPULENT FAIRY TALE
Milan: Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi took Alice in Wonderland and made her rich for F/W 13, swapping the fictional heroine’s modest blue pinafore for burnished gold brocade, winking crystal embellishments and metallic tweed. Like a privileged teenager, the designer’s muse took her appearance seriously, and youthful heart repeats, cap sleeves and topknot hairdos stood in contrast to
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BUSINESS NEUTRAL
Milan: Designer Manuela Arcari was all business this season, though in an intellectual manner appropriate for Ter et Bantine’s luxurious restraint. Following a long tradition of fashion borrowing from the boardroom, the collection made pinstripes and flannel look new for women, eschewing the usual sexed up or overly mannish route in favor of something referentially neutral. Blazers were slim
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Bottega Veneta’s F/W 13 collection was all about using elements of "poverty" to create beautiful embellishments. Designer Tomas Maiser used unexpected rustic materials such as lacquered wood and straw, and treated them to give the impression of crinkly layers of chiffon that formed oversized an abstract motifs. The rich autumnal tones add warmth and dimension to the raw edges and wrinkled textures, heightening the homespun vibe.
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DECORATIVE ARTS
Milan: Roberto Cavalli has always been associated with a certain sense of excess, and this season the designer pulled out all the stops, sending forth a collection featuring eye-catching prints, luxe materials, copious embellishments, and opulent accessories. The looks were mostly black and white, connecting the show to the film noir theme that has become so prevalent for fall.
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MINIMAL MOVEMENT
Milan: Jil Sander’s work is undoubtedly modern, but the designer’s feminine silhouettes always elevate her shows above dispassionate minimalism. Following up on a curvaceous return to her label in September, Sander’s F/W 13 presentation settled into a soft groove, expanding from nipped waist dresses with exaggerated hips to include easy halter sheaths and below-the-knee skirts with flowing, asymmetric hems.
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HITCHCOCK HEROINES
Milan: Film noir is shaping up to be one of the fall season's key trends, and Ermanno Scervino is yet another designer to embrace the reference. Hitchcock heroines were on his mind when he was creating his current collection. The show started off as a study in heather grey flannel, which was shaped into an alluring double-breasted coatdress and
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