You know a Men's footwear collection is good when you want to purchase at least half of the selection. That is the case with Jimmy Choo's S/S 13 collection.
For next season, the brand is proposing a quirky take on contemporary classics such as the Belgian loafer and Chelsea boots. Yarn-dyed uppers feature intarsia prints of garden critters and contrast piping.
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Saturdays Surf opened it's second New York city location in the West Village. The store embodies the laid-back lifestyle of surfing and the upbeat, fast-paced lifestyle a New Yorker. Originally selling boards and wetsuits, this space now produces its own line of menswear including cult-worthy t-shirts and tanks that can been seen on the likes of women and men alike.
Saturday’s
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COASTAL KITSCH
Paris: A Thom Browne presentation is nothing without its theatrics, and for S/S 13 the designer borrowed heavily from the metallic-painted street performers well known in tourist cities across the globe. Staged with models coated in reflective silver arriving to stand in metal brogues affixed to individual platforms, the actual clothing could also fit right in at a
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UPBEAT CLASSICS
Paris: Paul Smith’s suiting is legendary, known around the world for a slim, flattering fit and fashion-forward colors and patterns. S/S 13 brought Smith squarely back to his comfort zone of hip, rock and roll-inspired separates and skinny, swinging London suits, this time in a zingy palette of cherry red, fuchsia and sunflower yellow. Fitted motorcycle jackets, nylon bombers
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WORK COOL, PLAY COOL
Paris: Alber Elbaz showed a largely two-tone black and white collection, full of solid, sharp suiting and unassuming classic items like black Mackintosh raincoats or cropped trench coats. He sprinkled just enough playfulness throughout, largely in the form of cartoon florals sets in sky blue or a more demure grey, as well as plenty of shorts suits
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SOFT ROCK
Paris: If Agnès Troublé’s recent Men’s collection was a touch unfocused, at least it offered something for everyone. Her strongest pieces were rockabilly style velvet blazers and Man-in-Black suits paired with western bow ties, while a full complement of suits looked solid. A couple of schoolboy ensembles – complete with knee socks – kicked off the show, and vied
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A BIT OF TRADITION
Paris: Backstage Damir Doma stated, "It's about finding a new perspective for my work, getting away from my comfort zone." The result was a marriage of the designer's signature silhouettes — tapered volume and easy layers — with classic menswear items like moto jackets and three-button suits. The presence of silky, pajama-like sets, stand collar jackets, sheer
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JUNGLE BOOK
Paris: Perhaps Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s recent jungle-themed show – their second Men’s collection for Kenzo – was a commentary on playing with the big cats at LVHM and competitors, or maybe it was simply the product of their latest playful fixation. Either way, there’s no doubt their minds were in the jungle. The duo showed a number
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SUEDEHEAD
Paris: Kris Van Assche showed another mainly monochrome, militaristic collection for Dior Homme, though one toughed up by hard mod items, tailoring, and attitude. Van Assche clearly knows his street fashion history, remembering that skinhead looks came directly out of mod culture, and were closer to the Carnaby Street foppery of rockers like The Kinks’ Dave Davies than many of
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ICONIC INTERPRETATION
Paris: Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro tackled a grab bag of iconic American items this season, from classic western shirts to rockabilly leather pants and hybrid baseball/motorcycle jackets, while citing David Lynch’s Wild at Heart as his visual reference. But while none of these pieces are new to the runways, Yasuhiro’s distinctly feminine interpretation looked fresh, his tough 50s-era outerwear
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BALANCED YOUTH
Paris: At Wooyoungmi’s S/S 13 presentation the shapes were simple and wearable, giving the Korean label’s free-flowing patterns and palette center stage. Basic Mackintosh coats, relaxed trousers, fitted polos and walking shorts formed the basis of the collection, while sophisticated floral repeats, slim stripes, checks and geometrics were eye-catching without becoming overblown. Although the spring palette favored neutral tones,
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ETERNAL SLEEP
Paris: Demeulemeester’s hallmark Gothic sensibilities are unlikely to go anywhere soon, but observers often stress her dark fixation at the cost of acknowledging the designer’s sly sense of humor and celebratory sense of fun. All three were on display in Paris, as the designer paraded a number of pajama party looks down the runway, many that were equal parts
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STRANGELY SUITABLE
Paris: Watanabe’s collection was slightly subdued, as the designer showed slim, trim, cropped suits, not unlike Thom Browne’s creations minus the robust cuffs. However, dashes of the designer’s eye for rich allusion and salt-of-the-earth dressing showed through. Hints of the 70s were subtle, but ultimately everywhere. Floral shirts came in mustard and avocado, though the designer gifted them with
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GENERATIONAL DIVIDE
Paris: Initially, comfort seemed to be king at Rei Kawakubo’s S/S 13 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus presentation, with calf-length grey hoodies and elongated jersey motorcycle jackets layered over relaxed camouflage and leopard-print pajama sets. But if many of these pieces suggested a sulking, rebellious teenage boy, others indicated his status, such as spiked headbands worn like crowns and
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EVERYDAY BASICS
Paris: This season, Kriss Van Assche built his collection around the one basic that every man needs, the white T-shirt. The offering was a straightforward assortment of crisp separates — button-front shirts, khaki pants and shorts and utilitarian jackets. Along with a minimalist palette, materials like cotton shirting, chino, denim and nylon also maintained simplicity. Details like elastic waistbands
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