WATERPROOF STAPLES
London: Christopher Raeburn is the master of urbanized military garb, bringing functional waterproof outerwear and refined athletic-style bottoms to the runway each season. For F/W 13 the designer reprised the map prints seen in his S/S 13 women’s collection, using these topographical lines as a subtle detail on anoraks and bomber jackets. Specifically inspired by England’s Redsand Sea Forts,
...
Read more >
CASUAL REFINEMENT
London: Celebrating just over a decade in business, British designer Oliver Spencer’s F/W 13 collection was a lovely synthesis of his inspiration, the work and imagined wardrobe of the artist Joseph Beuys. Concentrating on felt, Beuys’ sculptural material of choice, Spencer crafted comfortably tailored coats with a nubby texture and slim silhouette, authentically marled sweaters and rolled hem trousers.
...
Read more >
THEMATIC LAYERING
London: Vivienne Westwood attended her F/W 13 menswear show (staged on a loading dock of Harrod’s) wearing a “I am Julian Assange” t-shirt, a sentiment which represented one of the many themes she explored this season. Amidst an industrial apocalypse set, the Westwood presentation included urban dandies in classic cutaway overcoats and pleated trousers, monochrome modern military garb, layered
...
Read more >
DASHINGLY DARK
London: The moody drama of Alexander McQueen menswear returned to London this season with Sarah Burton’s latest collection of smoking room eveningwear and skinny, elongated Savile Row suiting. Distinguished, elegant and dark, McQueen’s signature peaked shoulders looked sharp atop oxblood velvet tuxedo jackets paired with seductive dotted robes, but modern updates came via Burton’s savvy fractured take on the
...
Read more >
Baggy fits replace recent seasons' slim cut trousers at London’s F/W 13 Men’s shows. Silhouettes vary in proportions ranging from Agi and Sam’s tapered carrots to the exaggerated, voluminous looks shown at Topman Design. The pants work in a range of materials including traditional khakis for a casual look and patent leather for a glossy, edgy take on the item. – Sharon Graubard
Read more >
AUTUMNAL COMFORT
London: Richard James’ F/W 13 collection eschewed theatrics in favor of a concentration on relaxed wearability and everyday coziness. These were real clothes for real men, from sturdy wool peacoats in shades of evergreen and olive to dark straight-leg denim trousers cut for grown-ups. Marled knit turtlenecks, chunky scarves and beanies provided warmth as well as a touch of youth,
...
Read more >
RELAXED SWAGGER
London: Aussie import Richard Nicoll’s signature athleticism was on display again this season in London, although it arrived via a much more relaxed silhouette enlivened by a sense of masculine swagger. Slim tailoring in a cloudy range of chambray blues and stormy grays looked sharp and modern, but the new standouts were easy-fit workwear trousers, minimal bomber jackets and
...
Read more >
SEDUCTIVE THEATRICS
London: For their F/W 13 presentation Jeremy Hackett and Ashley Lloyd-Jennings explored yet another facet of quintessential Englishness, bringing to life a modern day Sherlock Holmesian gentleman, replete with bowler hat and three piece flannel suit. But although many of the looks were the very definition of dapper with deft layers and a refined palette, the Hackett collection included
...
Read more >
QUIRKY MEETS DAPPER
London: The quirky nature of an Agi & Sam collection never overwhelms the young label’s directional appeal, and for F/W 13 many wearable pieces arrived with a balanced sense of fun. Playful miniature conversational repeats may have seemed youthful and cutesy, but paired with slim quilted crewneck tops and vests or bright sporty parkas the effect proved low-key
...
Read more >
ARCTIC URBANIST
London: Opening on a series of monochrome cream ensembles, Topman’s F/W 13 collection had a distinctly arctic feeling, a theme Creative Director Gordon Richardson developed when researching early gentleman explorers. Moving on to safety orange and cranberry, the presentation’s baggy, pleated nylon trousers tucked into snow-ready hiking boots and chunky turtleneck sweaters worn beneath fur-trimmed parkas were serious cold-weather
...
Read more >
SEASIDE SLICK
London: Kicking off the F/W 13 menswear season, Lou Dalton’s latest is an amalgam of classic tartans and fisherman sweaters inspired by seaside towns in the Shetlands, a location visited by the young designer’s slick 70s oil baron muse. Approached with subtlety, this unusual mix of references resulted in a well-pitched collection of cozy relaxed knits, boxy tweed jackets
...
Read more >
STYLE FOR ALL OCCASIONS
New York: From luxe velvet suits to sporty hiking ensembles, Kim Jones offered the Louis Vuitton man stylish options for any occasion. The designer started out with looks that seemed geared toward travel. Tailored overcoats were layered over silky paisley shirts and simple sweaters, and looks were styled with laptop cases or duffels. The classic logo trunks
...
Read more >
The best thing about being in New York during the holidays is the proliferation of unique pop-up shops around the city. Case in point: the corner of 40th Street and Broadway. Once the home of American Greetings, the sprawling warehouse space remains a must-shop this season with the opening of a 2(x)ist pop-up that benefits American Red Cross for Hurricane
...
Read more >
As the holiday season slowly approaches (we heard one too many jingle bells ringing pre-Thanksgiving!), shopping becomes a little less fun and a little more crowded, making it extra hard to find thoughtful gifts for friends, family and the boss you want to score some points with.
Read more >
SOUTHWARD SAILORS
New York: For S/S 13 Michael Bastian steered Gant south and west to the Galapagos Islands, where he found inspiration in the island’s flora and fauna, as well as its most famous explorer – Charles Darwin. Hence, Bastian’s looks were both nautical and exploratory, with plenty of stripes and technical or active inspirations, as well as a hefty dose
...
Read more >
