AESTHETIC CONSTRAINT
Milan: Some designers flourish under strict constraints and Neil Barrett surely falls into this category. For F/W 13 he whittled his palette to anemic proportions, limited to basic neutrals and a pop of cherry as well as a uniform silhouette of skinny trousers topped by round shoulder jackets and coats. But somehow the results were never boring, due in part
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TOUCHABLE LUXURY
Milan: Somber grey dominated at Ermenegildo Zegna this Fall, but the mood was far from drab due to material innovations and mixed, layered textures. Tone-on-tone patterns were created with the label’s staple alpaca, while marled knits mixed with quilted nylon shells for a sporty coziness. In fact, knitwear was the unexpected standout this season, as Zegna’s traditional suiting gave
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THE DIRECTIONAL CONSERVATIVE
Milan: Debuting her second menswear collection after returning to the label she founded, Jil Sander’s F/W 13 presentation was a confident case for classically minimal outerwear. Although the designer included several pops of berry red, emerald and cobalt, the primary message was for a simple grey flannel both as material and color. Boxy suiting and overcoats featured ghostly
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DECONSTRUCTED SCOTTISH
London: Seaside Scotland was a common point of reference in London this season, and Patrick Grant’s latest collection for E. Tautz took the region’s tweeds and tartans into the modern day. Emblazoned on bias-cut overcoats and abstracted on crewneck sweaters, Grant gave checks new life and perhaps a more youthful audience, his irreverent styling finding oversized suit trousers tucked
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THE GENTLEMANLY ARTS
London: Rake’s inherent sophistication was on full display for F/W 13, as designer Clive Darby brought forth a collection inspired by the work of artist Gunter Sachs. But this wardrobe was more art collector than artist, full of gentlemanly corduroy pieces in light neutral tones and rich velvet, suede and fur outerwear. Every ensemble carried a refined formality,
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FRESH MATERIAL
London: Still reliably graphic and irreverent, Jonathan Saunders took a few new risks for F/W 13, trying out materials such as Persian lamb, alpaca, mohair and bonded felt, all while giving them his beloved cool-kid twist. The collection’s mix of bright blue and olive was also unusual, a color experiment which stood out on an elongated overcoat as well
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PSYCHO KILLER
London: Looking to the “psychotic nature of man” present in movies like American Psycho, designer Khalid Al Qasimi pursued an unusual brand of creepy futurism for F/W 13. In this tightly edited presentation, sage-colored oversized shirts and matching pants came in bonded jacquard and neoprene with a luxurious metallic finish, while a felted suit had a pleasing monochrome appearance.
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WATERPROOF STAPLES
London: Christopher Raeburn is the master of urbanized military garb, bringing functional waterproof outerwear and refined athletic-style bottoms to the runway each season. For F/W 13 the designer reprised the map prints seen in his S/S 13 women’s collection, using these topographical lines as a subtle detail on anoraks and bomber jackets. Specifically inspired by England’s Redsand Sea Forts,
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CASUAL REFINEMENT
London: Celebrating just over a decade in business, British designer Oliver Spencer’s F/W 13 collection was a lovely synthesis of his inspiration, the work and imagined wardrobe of the artist Joseph Beuys. Concentrating on felt, Beuys’ sculptural material of choice, Spencer crafted comfortably tailored coats with a nubby texture and slim silhouette, authentically marled sweaters and rolled hem trousers.
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THEMATIC LAYERING
London: Vivienne Westwood attended her F/W 13 menswear show (staged on a loading dock of Harrod’s) wearing a “I am Julian Assange” t-shirt, a sentiment which represented one of the many themes she explored this season. Amidst an industrial apocalypse set, the Westwood presentation included urban dandies in classic cutaway overcoats and pleated trousers, monochrome modern military garb, layered
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DASHINGLY DARK
London: The moody drama of Alexander McQueen menswear returned to London this season with Sarah Burton’s latest collection of smoking room eveningwear and skinny, elongated Savile Row suiting. Distinguished, elegant and dark, McQueen’s signature peaked shoulders looked sharp atop oxblood velvet tuxedo jackets paired with seductive dotted robes, but modern updates came via Burton’s savvy fractured take on the
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Baggy fits replace recent seasons' slim cut trousers at London’s F/W 13 Men’s shows. Silhouettes vary in proportions ranging from Agi and Sam’s tapered carrots to the exaggerated, voluminous looks shown at Topman Design. The pants work in a range of materials including traditional khakis for a casual look and patent leather for a glossy, edgy take on the item. – Sharon Graubard
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AUTUMNAL COMFORT
London: Richard James’ F/W 13 collection eschewed theatrics in favor of a concentration on relaxed wearability and everyday coziness. These were real clothes for real men, from sturdy wool peacoats in shades of evergreen and olive to dark straight-leg denim trousers cut for grown-ups. Marled knit turtlenecks, chunky scarves and beanies provided warmth as well as a touch of youth,
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RELAXED SWAGGER
London: Aussie import Richard Nicoll’s signature athleticism was on display again this season in London, although it arrived via a much more relaxed silhouette enlivened by a sense of masculine swagger. Slim tailoring in a cloudy range of chambray blues and stormy grays looked sharp and modern, but the new standouts were easy-fit workwear trousers, minimal bomber jackets and
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SEDUCTIVE THEATRICS
London: For their F/W 13 presentation Jeremy Hackett and Ashley Lloyd-Jennings explored yet another facet of quintessential Englishness, bringing to life a modern day Sherlock Holmesian gentleman, replete with bowler hat and three piece flannel suit. But although many of the looks were the very definition of dapper with deft layers and a refined palette, the Hackett collection included
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