OFFICER HEP CAT
Milan: The Caten brothers showed a collection ripe with nostalgia for a time gone by, when US GIs wore chunky olive overcoats on the battlefields of Europe and cool-guy fedoras in the dance halls back home. The Caten’s designs shifted between military utility and jazzy hipsterisms, with models sporting well-made garments that found grounding in utility. Tartan tuxedo
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GENTLEMAN OF ACTION
Milan: Giorgio Armani delivered a namesake collection that at first appeared scattershot, with conservative grey business suits marching next to cranberry pony hair overcoats. However, as more models appeared, sporting knit suits or trousers and fur bombers, it became clear that the designer was presenting two sides of the same adventurous gentleman – a man at home doing
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DARK INFLUENCE
Milan: The influence of Hedi Slimane’s S/S 13 womenswear collection for Saint Laurent is slowly emerging in the menswear shows this season via a darkly bohemian rock and roll sensibility, an aesthetic perfectly suited to Diesel’s Black Gold line. For F/W 13 the label presented military coats mixed with flashy and luxurious velvets, tooled leather and astrakhan fur, the
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SLEEK FORMALITY
Milan: Sleek formality ruled at Canali’s F/W 13 presentation, as well as an unapologetic sense of luxury via astrakhan collars, fluffy fur overcoats and rich velvets. Working within a military meets dandy theme, the collection featured must-haves like dignified three-piece suits, brass-button peacoats and fitted tweed separates, each ensemble precisely accessorized with silk pocket squares or wrapped neck scarves.
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Fur and shearling had a definitive presence at F/W 13 in Men’s London collections. Showcased in oversized lapels, extended cuffs, linings and facings, these plush materials ranged from lofty and plush to velvety low-piles, and were a key feature for Men’s outerwear. – Andrew Luecke
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ALLOVER ROVER
Milan: Kean Etro drew on a world’s worth of influences for his recent collection, showing imagery as disparate as Celtic knot graphics and tiger stripe trim. Fur and shearling were everywhere, on bomber jackets, overcoats, scarves, and even popping from bags. Colors were explosive, mixing eggplant, mustard, chocolate, and midnight blue – often in one garment, such as richly
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TRAD ON ICE
Milan: Frida Giannini showed a collection full of traditional elements like glen plaid suits and bomber jackets, all updated with icy colors and an aggressive, mysterious cool. Black, iced blue, and cool white were everywhere, turning down the temperature on wintry items like chunky sweaters, cable-knit turtlenecks and glen plaid suits. The designer intrigued attendees by layering smooth
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NICE HAND
Milan: Z. Zegna designer Paul Surridge offered up a collection of hearty basics defined more by fuzzy, warm materials than by innovative silhouettes or cuts. Outerwear was boxy and long, while trousers were straight-legged pleated numbers that featured slight breaks, for a refreshing length. Jet black, bark brown, olive and granite grey dominated colorwise, but were set off with punctuations
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KNIT ON THE STREET
Milan: The house of Missoni showed in Milan despite the ongoing search for their CEO, recently disappeared off the coast of South America, the somber mood in contrast to this optimistic menswear collection. Inspired by the landscapes of the American West, knit cardigans featured subtle nods to native weaving patterns, their stripes mixing nicely with the classic
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QUILTED UTILITY
Milan: Last season Italo Zucchelli celebrated the American roots of the Calvin Klein label, infusing a slew of iconic staples with his own tech-savvy and sport-conscious aesthetic. For F/W 13 the designer gave these influences free reign, crafting a presentation of militaristic utility coated in rubberized finishes, quilting and mesh. Key shapes were rectangular and strong, with large cargo
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HIGHLAND HYBRIDS
Milan: Thom Browne’s off-kilter hand was immediately recognizable at the F/W 13 Moncler Gamme Bleu presentation, which found his models fighting a faux snowstorm kitted out in Highland tartans, fur-tail waist packs and thick cable knit outerwear. But although the theatrics of tradition served as Browne’s smokescreen, the modern hallmarks of the Moncler brand arrived in full force via
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EARNEST CHARMER
Milan: Miucca Prada asserted her latest menswear collection was about classics and in the presentation many staples could certainly be found. Slim cropped trousers, patterned over coats, crewneck sweaters and easy one-button blazers could suit any climate and indeed, nearly any modern era. But for F/W 13 it was Prada’s styling, as usual, which set these basics apart, her
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THE GREAT ERASE
Milan: Throughout Tomas Maier’s understated F/W 13 Bottega Veneta collection what he left out became as important as what he chose to highlight, the serene mood hinging on the smallest of details. Monochrome ensembles in camel, navy and black looked almost blank due to covered buttons, while even leather jackets with subtle cargo pockets had an interesting erased
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CLASSICS DONE KITSCH
Milan: When mining the archives at Burberry Prorsum, designer Christopher Bailey has a lot to work with, with the classics of this legendary label providing a solid foundation for any modern innovations. This season he titled his show “I Heart Classics” and riffed on what Burberry does best - outerwear. The silhouette was skinny but squared at the
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WORSHIPFUL PROLETARIAT
Milan: The ecclesiastical nature of Dolce & Gabbana’s design aesthetic lived on for F/W 13, but the designers weren’t limited to reverential opulence this time around, instead choosing silhouettes and styling appropriate for the proletariat. Oversized and wide-sleeved tops printed and embroidered with the Virgin Mary were given a casual slouch tucked into the season’s high-waisted and tapered trousers,
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