FUNCTIONAL MAN MEN
New York: At today's DKNY menswear presentation, creative director Garry Martin talked to Stylesight about New York as his constant inspiration for DKNY’s functional and streetwise collection. “I love the Mad Men look for men, I always have”, says Garry. There was a clear 60s vibe with slim-fit two-button suits in “Phantom” mélange stretch wool, styled with cotton
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HIKING CLUB
New York: Micah Cohen’s recent showing featured a distinctly outdoor flavored prep school aesthetic, replete with rugby shirts, patch pocket blazers and corduroy field trousers. Color blocking broke things up and added energy, while track pants provided a sporty touch, and tuxedo trousers were unexpectedly formal. The collection's joyus jumble perfectly captured the “thrown together” genius of prep fashion,
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ENGLISH EASE
New York: Jumpstarting New York Fashion Week an entire week early, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright started things off right with a sophisticated streetwise Men’s F/W 13 collection. There was an elegant ease to the English heritage inspired looks that fused with workwear and street elements in an edited but effortless way. Relaxed and cropped Dickies-inspired trousers paired with
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STREET BOYS
New York: For his recent Marc by Marc Jacobs collection, the designer added a number of surprise influences — like Oriental florals and the break-dancing swagger of golden age hip hop — to his always-welcome nerd-chic ensembles. This season Marc’s man was really a boy, a street savvy one at home in New York or London, but with just
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It’s easy to miss many of the bags shown on the F/W 13 Men's runways, as garment-matched materials and motifs have a camouflaging effect. Backpacks, satchels and carryalls are perfectly coordinated with outerwear, suits or bottoms, giving new meaning to the concept of "twinset" for Men.
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Milan F/W 13 Men’s collections were brightened by shimmering fabrics, often with rubberized or metallic finishes, creating a sport-conscious technical edge. Appearing in voluminous or tailored overcoats, coordinate sets, or trousers, these gleaming materials displayed a cool shining flare which set the items made from them apart. – Andrew Luecke
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DIRTY POETS SOCIETY
Paris: Hedi Slimane triumphantly returned to Men’s runways under the famously-renamed Saint Laurent label, showing a parade of expertly-executed prep-rocker looks that somehow looked utterly fresh while staying true to the ultra-slim vision he’d released on the world a decade ago. Slim trousers, mostly denim or leather, were the building blocks of the collection, especially as they expertly
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AMISH IN CHARGE
Paris: Thom Browne found inspiration in a typically anachronistic place this season, though for the theatrical designer not much is out of the ordinary - even an exploration of Amish dress and cultural touchstones. Complete with flat-brimmed hats, Browne’s models took the runway following a staged recreation of an Amish barn-raising and showed off a collection full of
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SLEEK CHIC
Paris: Lucas Ossendrijver’s latest collection for Lanvin showcased his vision via a slew of sleek, subtle designs that alternated between a forward, edgy slouch and slim, straight silhouette. Futuristic technical details like rubber-sealed zippers and quilting updated classic items like overcoats and even pullover crewnecks, while a variety of flashy trainers provided hits of lowbrow flash to this otherwise
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POP SQUARED
Paris: Paul Smith’s F/W 13 presentation opened with the type of brash color combinations the designer is known for, this time an optimistic Miami Vice combination of Caribbean blue and greens paired with sunny marigold. Throughout the collection the jackets were cut square and the pants came pleated, perhaps as another nod to the 80s, while patterns veered into
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URBANE ALPINE
Paris: Veronique Nichanian’s latest collection seemed to riff on a common theme at recent shows – the intersection of outdoor interests and elegance. Like other Parisian shows, Carven and Louis Vuitton, this Hermes collection combined adventurous alpine elements such as retro-ski sweaters and hiking boots, with the most sophisticated of double-breasted suits. Some items, like a beautiful astrakhan bomber
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BRAVE NEW WORLD
Paris: Purportedly inspired by sci-fi thriller Gattaca and its exploration of conformity via eugenics, Kris Van Assche showed a decidedly minimalist, futuristic collection that slowly revealed its subtle richness with each model that strode down the catwalk. Opening with business suits that on first blush looked like standard, if perfectly-cut, Wall Street fare, closer inspection revealed hidden zipper
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DELIGHTFUL MATURITY
Paris: The tone of Miharayasuhiro’s latest collection moved away from Spring’s punky, rockabilly vibe, heading in a more grown-up direction. As such, elegant embossed wool suits came layered atop fuzzy vests and peacoats lined in swaths of shaved fur, their sophistication only enhanced by expert and innovative detailing. Beyond small touches like asymmetric cable knit lapels and velvet collars,
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A SINISTER HUSH
Paris: Riccardo Tisci pulled his punches with his latest collection for Givenchy, showing a rich but subdued presentation of charcoal wool suiting with sharp shoulders and tonal shirting, leather accented duffel jackets and even a touch of classic argyle. The designer’s seductive tension still simmered beneath the surface, evident in rich shimmering tweeds, zipper embellished velvet suits and
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SPLIT PERSONALITY
Paris: Kris Van Assche brought together the twin themes that seem to be on every menswear runway this season, tailoring and sport, marrying these references with more than simple styling tricks. Instead, the designer’s F/W 13 suiting and sweats came spliced together as full hybrids. Dressy blazers dovetailed into logo jersey knits, bombers mixed with toggle coats and warm-up
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