903 posts tagged Men in ALL BLOGS


Issey Miyake -

PSYCHEDELIC TRIP Paris:  This season, Issey Miyake presented a festive medley comprised of playful color, tactile materials, and kaleidoscopic digital prints. The tailored silhouettes were basic, and Miyake's signature pleats made anappearance, but it was the iridescent quilting , laminated crackles, and a rainbow of psychedelic motifs that made things feel excitingly fresh. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Sweater poncho / Pleated shirt /  ...
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Dries Van Noten -

FLIGHT OF FANCY Paris: Dries Van Noten’s F/W 14 collection was, in many ways, an inversion of his recent dark floral masterpiece from S/S 14. Here prints abounded again, but pieces dripped with color. A flight parka blazed in bubblegum pink, and a quilted blazer sported a burning blue Southwestern motif. Other aeronautic elements, like parachute pants and pilot boots, underscored Van ...
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Damir Doma -

SOMBRE PROCESSION Paris: The F/W 14 Damir Doma collection looked somber, even for a designer known for a dark, subdued aesthetic. His palette was nearly all black and grey, but items like suits with overly-long jackets and pieced fleece and nylon pullovers still shown brightly.  —Andrew Luecke Key Items: Long-jacket suit / Zip-neck cycling tee / Specked tweed trouser / Eisenhower jacket ...
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DamirDomaFW14

Rick Owens -

BOYS IN THE HOODS Paris: Rick Owens updated his usual array of black and white drapery with unexpected shots of chocolate brown that were especially noticeably on leather-trimmed overcoats. Owens topped many looks with do-rag style hoods, while his leather boots were unusually tall for men, hitting near the knee.  —Andrew Luecke Key Items: Hidden-button over coat / Single-button crombie coat / Shearling jacket  ...
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RickOwensFW14

Ethnic Studies

Menswear designers enhance traditional European items with ethnic flourishes. Grey suits benefit from Middle Eastern-style geometric prints, while bright intarsias replace Fair Isle on sweaters and oversized patterned shawls take the place of scarves.
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3.1 Phillip Lim -

WESTERN ADDITION Paris:  Phillip Lim’s latest brought countrified, western touches to sleek, city slicker looks. Chore coats came in luxurious white or black leather with real shearling collars, while tuxedo shirts bore ranger tip collars and sophisticated denim abounded in shirts, biker pants and jeans.  —Andrew Luecke Key Items: Tartan overcoat / Bouclé bomber / Horse print crewneck / Leather trucker / Huge ...
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PhillipLimFW14

Louis Vuitton -

OFFICE TERRAIN Paris:  Style director Kim Jones brought the business suit outdoors for F/W 14, pairing tailored ensembles with luxe versions of mountain sports garb such as chunky angora sweaters, curly lamb parkas and streamlined hiking boots. Pants and jackets in a silky nylon-like fabric introduced an activewear influence, which also appeared in the form of perforated leather hoodies and mirrored wraparound sunglasses. ...
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Raf Simons -

SPACEMEN Paris: For his F/W 14 collection Raf Simons collaborated with artist and longtime associate, Sterling Ruby, who supposedly had a hand in every piece on the runway. Ruby’s hallmark serape stripes where there, in addition to a cavalcade of other wild prints. Digitally printed space motifs were prominent, as were other flyboy items, including bomber jackets, flight bags and Raf’s take ...
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RafFW14

Plush Textures -

Menswear designers flood runways with plush, fuzzy fabrics for F/W 14. Teddy textures created from angora, shearling, fur or synthetic pile fabrics transform traditional coats and cozy pullovers to define the trend.
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Haider Ackermann -

LAYERED AMBIENCE Milan: A nomadic and vaguely Edwardian air permeated Haider Ackermann's F/W 14 collection. Precise yet relaxed tailoring mingled with slouchy knits for a piled-on look, while fine materials elevated the multiple layers. As always, the designer's dropped crotch trousers were present, and ankle-length robe coats looked especially fresh.  — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Semi-sheer turtleneck / Cropped, dropped-crotch trousers / Velvet jacket ...
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Winter Pastels -

Menswear designers bring a spectrum of winter pastels to F/W 14 collections. Shades of icy blue, powder pink and creamy purple add subtle energy to pants and outerwear, working to soften men’s looks for next winter.
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Roberto Cavalli -

EXOTIC LUXURY Milan: This season Roberto Cavalli presented a darkly exotic collection of rich textures, luxe materials, and wild motifs. Shine was a key element, and appeared in the form of printed silks and metallic jaquard motifs. As always, the designer incorporated plenty of leather, destroyed denim, and a combination of animal prints to maintain his daring appeal. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Patterned silk ...
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Cavalli

Giorgio Armani -

HIS FAVORITE THINGS Milan: Giorgio Armani revisited many of his hallmark design features, including ultra-soft shouldered suit jackets and a subdued color palette, heavily reliant on grey. The shows knitwear offered up the most surprises, including a fuzzy, wine-colored, mohair sweater and duochrome, cross-body-zip cardigans. — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Mohair crewneck / Band collar shirt / Tailored sweatpant / Cross-body-zip cardigan / ...
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GiorgioArmaniFW14

Z Zegna -

MOD MEN Milan: The latest Z Zegna show updated mod suits, showing them in earthy grey or taupe, with exaggerated, high gorges and ultra-cropped trousers sporting wide cuffs. Active influences added levity to this collection via cropped puffer coats and bright colors like sunflower yellow. —Andrew Luecke Key Items: High-gorge suits in checks or stripes / Fabric-block overcoat / Oversize mohair crewneck ...
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ZZegnaFW14

DSquared2 -

PRISON BREAK Milan: Dean and Dan Caten looked to the penitentiary for inspiration this season, presenting a collection based on the uniforms worn by inmates and jail guards. Nonchalant silhouettes included slouchy, cropped pants, hoodies, and boxy jackets, and there was plenty of distressed denim to provide some obligatory toughness. Bright orange referenced the prison jumpsuit, while authentic details like key rings ...
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