GERMAN GRUNGE
New York: Robert Geller presented a dark and brooding collection engulfed in romanticism and grittiness for F/W 13. Looks had a sense of dark creative energy similar to the 1920s German Expressionist films that inspired the designer this season. There was curiousness to the looks, with illusion prints, stripes stacked over plaids, or Swiss dots in a gloomy color palette
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AMERICAN ENGLISHMEN
New York: Established American sportswear designer Tommy Hilfiger, continued his American heritage aesthetic for F/W 13 with a collection featuring an “East Coast prep meets British sartorial tradition in a hybrid of heritage and modernity.” The American designer borrowed traditional English tailoring and typical Prince of Wales, houndstooth and argyle patterns, but kept his home country's aesthetic with an All-American
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MASS APPEAL
New York: For its latest collection, Moncler Grenoble stacked models along a dramatically tiered, mirrored room, creating a virtual monolith of activewear. This presentation combined with an edited, naturalistic color palette to feel massive, like a granite outcropping in the French Alps. The collection dripped with fur, shiny technical nylons, and various quilting styles. Fur gauntlets and retro-stretch ski
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SPORT AND COMPORT
New York: Rising Menswear star Ian Velardi showcased the skills that have recently made him a critics darling and retail hit (Gap collaboration anyone?), presenting a collection of perfectly-executed basics, highlighted by expertly-jumbled preppy styling of the type that comes naturally to the best American designers. Velardi’s signature look included color-blocked sweatpants paired with a blackwatch tuxedo jacket,
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ARCTIC ODYSSEY
New York: Creative director Felipe Oliveria Baptista showcased complex Space Age expedition gear in his Lacoste F/W 13 collection. Inspired by the final frontier, Antarctica, a palette of icy greys and moody turquoises transcended the extreme terrains, as pops of safety orange, cobalt and pea green added an active-wear aspect to items. The collection featured fabric blocked tops with
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Functionality and style converged as designers at F/W 13 New York Fashion Week added utility pockets to jackets ranging from parkas to bombers and blousons. Snap and button closure pockets provided detail, making the overall looks less rural and more urbane. – Andrew Luecke
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Burgundy hits hard at New York Men’s shows, as designers seek to add warmth and color to cold weather ensembles. Burgundy’s rich hue complements other earth tones like olive and mustard, and of course sits nicely with neutrals, especially khaki. – Andrew Luecke
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New York collections are featuring dressed down suits for F/W 13. Designers opt for a casual ease in Men’s suiting by pairing tailored pieces with tees, popped collars, beat-up sneakers, beanies or caps. This easy-going approach transforms the traditionally formal look to a street-ready option. – Andrew Luecke
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THE WOODSMAN
New York: Billy Reid’s F/W 13 show continued to explore the designer’s interest in non-hackneyed Americana, showing a mix of rough but graceful items that included a number of sly materials and details. Reid himself stated that for this collection he sought “Elegance that has a warmth, yet a street toughness – wearable and functional luxury and a modern
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Backstage Interview Exclusive: Garry Martin - DKNY Men's
DKNY's design director Garry Martin gives Stylesight an exclusive look into the F/W 13 collection which focuses on versatility, giving guys the ability to seamlessly go from the office to cocktail hour in one fell swoop.
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FLY BOYS
New York: Daisuke Obana’s genius is his ability to immerse himself in his inspirations (sometimes obvious ones), while transforming them into transcendent fashion that is anything but ordinary. This season, Mr. Obana looked to one of history’s favorite women – aviation pioneer and adventurer, Amelia Earhart – to create a show rich with authentic details, rugged pieces, and a
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WOOL CLAD CLAN
New York: Richard Chai’s men were completely clad in wool for F/W 13. The heavily military-influenced collection channeled a new age gentleman with clean-cut sophistication and subtle Trekkie vibes. This brooding and refined collection had a strong, dark color palette of military neutrals including midnight navy, olive, and charcoal. Beaded embellishments on patch pockets and epaulets, or across
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INTEREST INVERTED
New York: Steven Cox and Daniel Silver delivered an innovative collection that further explored their trademark viewpoint and aesthetic. Crombie coats, slim combat boots and Japanese denim ensured that all looks were-street savvy and a little tough, but it was this duo’s innovative use of fabric blocking that truly defined the collection. Contrasting underarm panels adorned overcoats, while a never-seen-before
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MR. SPACEMAN
New York: Creative Director Bernardo Rojo looked to the 1960s space age for Joseph Abboud’s F/W 13 collection. Inspired by spacesuits of the Apollo Missions, the futuristic white curves of the TWA Flight Center, and the spirit of the era, Rojo showed a collection that expertly married textiles, technology, and tailoring. The color palette consisted of dark inky hues
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ALL AMERICAN NOIR
New York: Todd Snyder’s third eponymous collection riffed on his favorite form of high-end everyman’s Americana, answering concerns about prosaic designs with nerd-cool brown knits, pony hair and massive fur collars. Black shoes, fedoras, sweaters and leather alerted attendees that Snyder was moving his aesthetic further downtown, while staples like cargo pants and bomber jackets ensured that his
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