REBELLIOUS SIMPLICITY
New York: In perhaps his most cohesive collection to date, Derek Lam made a compelling argument for an evolution of the “minimalism” trend toward a less clinical simplicity. Yes silhouettes were boxy, clean, and stood away from the body but upon them one could find endearing notes of charm; the show began with mini-floral jacquarded separates that discreetly homaged
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The complete Rodarte for Opening Ceremony F/W 11 lookbook was unveiled on the retailer's website yesterday, revealing a romantic assortment inspired by Scandinavia. The collection, which includes Men's this time, is full of winter pales, architectural silhouettes and rustic Fair Isle, floral and plaid patterns. Items can be pre-ordered; price points range from $225 to $1,830.
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PLAYFUL LADY
Paris: Miuccia Prada built Miu Miu's F/W 11 collection around strong-shouldered 1940s-meets-1980s silhouettes; modernity came through with the use solid hues and clean lines, and a few charming bird and flower motifs (which were vaguely Biba-esque) felt quintessential for the label. Though simple and unfussy, the styling was innovative. Models' waists and hips were highlighted by mini overskirts, draped
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THE NIGHT PORTER
Paris: For his collection for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs imagined “an old hotel, with its chambermaids and the affairs that go on there, the crimes and scandals”. Models entered the runway through gilded elevator doors guarded by stone-faced porters, whose LV-printed leather hats also accessorized many of the models' ensembles. Fetishism and obsession were other terms the designer
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THE ICE PRINCESS
Paris: Although Alexander McQueen's publicists have denied the latest reports that Sarah Burton is designing Kate Middleton's wedding gown, the bridal-perfect fall collection seemed to indicate otherwise. Burton even had her own royal muse in mind: the Ice Queen. While the designer seemed to favor the more tragic side of the fairytale (the show was staged at La
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SWEET SOPHISTICATION
Paris: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli took a calculated step away from Valentino’s history at the beginning of their appointment to the house, but have slowly been making their way back to the legendary couturier’s archives on their own terms. The younger looks that won them critical acclaim and a new, hip audience were tempered this season
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KNITTING PRETTY
Paris: Full of novelty nettings and swirly linear prints, the surprisingly simple concept behind Vionnet's F/W 11 collection stemmed from a black-and-white image of a knot that designer Rodolfo Paglialunga spotted online. Easy, ladylike sheaths were offered in ribbon macramés, lacquered laces and silk satins that were sometimes quilted. Pencil and midi skirts, which were styled with kimono-sleeved
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FROM MAXIMUM TO MINIMUM
Paris: This season marks Giambattista Valli’s fifth anniversary in the business, and with that milestone the designer seemed to turn over a new leaf. Although Valli's work has sometimes suffered from heavy-handed references to the haute couture 1940s-50s, here the designer more successfully turned to the minimal shapes of 1960s André Courrèges. Valli replaced the colorful froufrou
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DARK FANTASY
Paris: Set design always plays an important role in a Chanel show (see F/W 10’s giant iceberg), and this season’s scorched earth and ominous fog signaled a dark mood. Many of the clothes embodied the ruggedness of the scene; jeans were rumpled and distressed, tweed jackets looked chopped off and layered on top of utility jackets. These were not
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PLAYFUL EXPERIMENTS
Paris: An alumnus of Comme Des Garçons and Junya Watanabe, Sacai designer Chitose Abe isn't afraid to be experimental. More commercial than her former employers, Abe aims to balance innovation and theatrics with wearability. This season, the drama of unexpected fabric combinations and offbeat embellishments was downplayed by playfully feminine silhouettes. Full skirts, sometimes covered in fringe, were made
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KEEPING IT CLASSIC
Paris: Although rumors of his impending demise (a hanging guillotine, as a recent New York Times article so aptly put it) have been swirling around for the past few seasons, Stefano Pilati seems to be thriving under the pressure, delivering one of his best collections for Yves Saint Laurent last spring and continuing his winning streak into fall.
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DOWN TO EARTH
Paris: Where last season’s collection was airy and ethereal, Hannah MacGibbon’s current offering for Chloé was more grounded and earthy. Leather and standout denim pieces lent a tactile element, and the ubiquitous use of dyed lizard and snakeskin prints conjured images of the desert rather than the club. Design details like piecing and whip-stitch binding added a crafty
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PROPORTION PLAY
Paris: The finely pleated dress with rounded sleeves that opened the Stella McCartney show was a good indicator of the looks that followed; its play on texture and proportion were echoed throughout the show. The egg-shaped silhouettes were right on trend (having appeared in other influential collections this season, including Jil Sander and Prada), but outsized proportions made
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ROMANTIC REBELS
Paris: Between the pinwheels of carnival lights in the backdrop and the exuberant patchwork of prints on the clothes, Antonio Marras' latest collection for Kenzo was a feast for the eyes. Inspired by Georgia O'Keefe and Frida Kahlo, whose strong yet delicate works became icons of the feminist movement, Marras, too, created visually impactful ensembles out of soft, pretty
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DIVINE DEBUT
Paris: Christophe Lemaire’s debut collection for the storied house of Hermès melded classic lines with Asian influences. The designer worked creamy multi-ply cashmeres and buttery leathers into elongated caftans, kurtas, and kimonos in a palette of desert tones highlighted by imperial ruby, amber and jade. Accessories included obi belts and miniature bags that resembled Chinese snuff boxes. Silhouettes were
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