LONG + LEAN
London: Michael Herz’s latest collection for the British heritage brand Aquascutum felt confident and cohesive. The designer continued with the floor-length skirts and dresses that he introduced in Spring, but whittled the proportions down, so the pieces fell closer to the body. The long and lean shape felt right, and Herz displayed self-assurance and maturity by moving forward
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DIGITAL UNDERGROUND
London: There's no denying that Henry Holland has accomplished quite a bit in his short yet prolific career, so much that its hard to remember he's only 26 years old — until you take a look at the clothes, that is. His graphic tees in particular (which have boasted creative LOL-speak anagram messages such as DFW, short for "down
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COASTAL COOL
London: Margaret Howell’s clothes always conjure nostalgic scenes – remote coastal towns, charming cottages, cozy fires – and this season the designer served up her classic brand of British bucolic with on-trend influences from menswear and the great outdoors. Workman aprons and hunting vests were turned into chic separates, and utilitarian toggles, tabs and flap pockets detailed her signature
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SOFT POWER DRESSING
London: As demonstrated in his past collections, Richard Nicoll has a knack for crafting strong images out of characteristically-feminine components: pastel colors, delicate fabrics and lingerie-influenced pieces. This season, Nicoll did not look far for inspiration, translating his own menswear wardrobe staples into easy-to-wear separates and dresses that possessed a fluid elegance while cutting a sharp, powerful figure.
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SCHOOLGIRL POP
London: Eley Kishimoto enjoys a cult-like following, especially in Japan, where fans go mad for their appealing prints and girlish, softly draped silhouettes. For F/W 10 this husband and wife team employed a darker palette, adding 70s-inspired tones of red and brown to their usual pastel rainbow, and mixing these disparate elements for a fresh take on schoolgirl pop.
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GRAFFITI NATION
London: Vivienne Westwood's eclectic style is a reliable staple on the London runways, a perfect mash-up of prints, layered proportions and varied textures. In addition to these perennial Westwood touches, her Red Label collection for F/W 10 interpreted larger Junior trends like the graffiti prints seen on New York runways, holographic effects, high-shine black, slouchy trousers and schoolgirl looks.
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ANIMAL INNOCENCE
London: A whimsical, woodsy runway was the perfect setting for Topshop to show the furry, animal-inspired looks that made up Unique’s FW2010 collection. Squirrel, raccoon, and porcupine headpieces topped off most outfits, leaving little room for alternative interpretations of the show’s forest creature theme. Most of the models were bundled in layers upon layers of neutral earth tones
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LANGUID + LIQUID
London: Maria Grachvogel reprised her signature long and languid silhouettes for Fall. Floor-sweeping dresses are her forte, and there was no shortage of new versions; some of the best featured a plunging neckline and a belted waist that enhanced womanly curves. High-waisted, roomy pants echoed the dresses’ shape and looked sophisticated and easy to wear. This season, the
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BODY-CON REVISITED
London: Mark Fast caused quite a stir last season when he sent out models that were larger than the typical waifs in his hole-riddled, body-con knit dresses. That show set a dialogue in motion surrounding ideal shape that lent inspiration for V Magazine’s controversial “Size Issue”, as well as countless riveting discussions on the fashion blogs. The designer stayed
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BOYISH BRITS
London: A true heritage brand, the British label Daks began in the 1930s as a menswear line, and a man-tailored sensibility has always characterized its womenswear, as well. Currently designed by Filippo Scuffi, the studious, boy-meets-girl looks were the epitome of classic Englishness. Several versions of plaid were used for trenchcoats, straight skirts, tailored trousers and knee-length walking
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HARSH + PRETTY
London: Although Acne was initially a jeans line when it debuted in 1996, creative director Jonny Johansson went on to launch a full collection in 1998. Judging from Acne’s most recent showing, the Swedish company has moved way beyond denim. In fact, the show this season seemed to revolve around the exploration of various textiles and their particular
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DARK AND STORMY
London: Inspired by Cormac McCarthy’s post-apocalyptic epic, The Road, the design duo behind Aminaka Wilmont presented a dark and stormy collection that did not stray far from their trademark juxtaposition of soft and rigid forms. In a mostly grayscale palette, photocopier streaks, frantic scribbles and grungy geological textures brought dimension to the team’s signature body-wrapping jersey dresses, many
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ROCK ROMANTICISM
London: The sisters behind edgy label Felder Felder have honed their brand of directional rocker-chick fashion over the past few seasons, resulting in collections that are reliably heavy on leather, tough metal embellishements and loads of black. This season represented a slight departure from this formula; a lighter romantic touch was infused throughout via airy pastels, intricately crafted ruffles
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AFRICAN ECCENTRIC
New York: Designer Max Osterweis lists American interiors of the late 1960s, the paintings of Gustav Klimt, and the African textiles that he has become known for as the myriad inspirations behind Suno’s newest looks. Each of the pieces that made up the collection is one of a kind, and cut from the many Kenyan fabrics that the
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SOPHISTICATED SCAVENGER
London: Aussie duo Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton’s FW2010 collection looked like the natural evolution of their looks from last season. Sass and Bide’s runway show seemed to reflect a civilization that had come full circle. Possessing the artisanship of ancient times, and reflecting the sophisticated tastes of the modern world, the clothes were at once primitive and
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