MID-CENTURY MASTERFUL
Milan: The early 60s influences that pervaded Prada’s Pre Fall collection returned in a richer, more sophisticated way for F/W 10. Earth-toned patterns evoking vintage upholstery, boxy skirt suits and flared capris solidified the mid-century references, but as always with Prada, there was a technological undertone, as evidenced by the giant video screen projecting flower power daisies, puzzles and
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TECHNO-RUSTIC
London: Known for her sophisticated brand of cohesive, relaxed tailoring, Nicole Farhi opted to separate her elements for fall, working highly-structured shapes against soft, fluid forms. Trench coats and cropped jackets were finely-tailored into supple, ergonomic shapes, while crinkled cloqué sheaths cascaded in loose waves down the body and fell seductively off the shoulder. High-shine synthetics mixed with rustic wools,
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EARTHY FUTURISM
London: After being inspired by the reflection of fireworks on water for their the spring collection, the duo behind Peter Pilotto turned towards the more urbane influences of Modernist architecture and Seventies interiors for fall. With those references in hand came a dose of reality, as the team grounded their usual mix of draped cocktail frocks with tailored separates
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OUTSIDE IN
London: Not revolutionary but definitely appealing, Jaeger — under the helm of head designer Karen Boyd and creative director Stuart Stockdale (formerly of Pringle) — presented a collection built on the woolens and outerwear that have made the label synonymous with classic quality for over a century. Coats were cut into cocoon shapes inspired by the company’s archives, updated
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DREAMY INDUSTRIAL
London: The UK's own fashion week is known for fostering some of the best new talent around and Jonathan Saunders has quickly become one of London's shining stars. As usual, he displayed a prowess with clean lines and an expert use of color, but this season Saunders made some major tweaks in both silhouette and material. Gone were last
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WILD THING
London: Designer Ashish Gupta certainly knows how to throw a curve ball with his ever changing, fearless, and boisterous collections. His true talent, though, lies in the perfectly calibrated execution of each relatively over-the-top look. Last Spring's abundance of printed pants, tough spikes and flashy sequins have given way to large-scale Aztec prints, floor-sweeping skirts and contrast-heavy print mixing,
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BOMBER BABES
London: The vintage-style shearling bomber jacket gave the trenchcoat a run for its money at this season’s Burberry Prorsum show. Designer Christopher Bailey took his inspiration for the collection from an aviator jacket he found in the Burberry archives. The jacket was spun into in a variety of shapes, from cropped to thigh-length, in rich chocolate brown leather or
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SWEETLY SUBVERSIVE
London: Never afraid to make a statement, and unwittingly setting trends season after season, Christopher Kane presented another intriguing collection, this time comprised of all-black getups that were part dominatrix, part virginal country maiden. It was Kane’s vision of a Catholic schoolgirl gone bad (the designer cited child bride Priscilla Presley as a key inspiration), and appropriately, leather and
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HAUTE HIGHLAND
London: Clare Waight Keller presented Scotland’s own version of “heritage chic” in a fall collection filled with cozy Shetland plaids, countryside fabrics and kilt-like flourishes. Considering its 195-year-old history, Pringle's knits are already synonymous with their Highland home, and the latest offering kept that legacy intact with plenty of snuggle-worthy wares. Sweaters were marked by oversized argyle patterns and
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ALL MIXED UP
London: The fashion world has decided that now is the moment for celebrity lines, and Sienna Miller's newest collection falls in favorably. Similar to her star-turned-designer counterparts like Gwen Stefani, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen and Erin Wasson, the key to Sienna's sartorial success is to mix her coveted personal style with key pieces and silhouettes from the
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FOREST FAERIES
London: Always unabashedly romantic, Erdem Moralioglu summoned the spirits of an enchanted forest for fall, mixed in with a healthy dose of schoolgirl naiveté remembered from his childhood in Canada. Placed butterfly motifs and embroideries fluttered over bell-shaped cocktail frocks, A-line maxi skirts and schoolgirl sweaters that were, adorably, a few sizes too small. Fractals of fall foliage and
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DARK DECONSTRUCTION
London: Ann-Sofie Back is a Swedish import in DIY-style London — a location that suits her witty, torn-apart work perfectly, since the British historically appreciate both artful dishevelment and tongue-in-cheek humor. In the past, Back has used her collections to comment on everything from celebrity culture to goth teenagers, creating strong statements with spare silhouettes and under-the-radar details. After
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BAVARIAN BOUDOIR
London: After experimenting with distorting and dissecting the female figure last season, Marios Schwab returned to a more worshipful stance for fall, creating sexy, body-conscious clothes that showed why he is a natural fit as the new designer for Halston. In addition to going back to his aesthetic roots, the designer also chose to honor his half-Austrian heritage. Using
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TECHNO BOHO
London: Young designers Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff surprised everyone at London Fashion week this season with a complete departure from their usual sleek style; instead they focused on bright color, layers and a long, loose silhouette. And where past collections focused on a single construction trick, such as deconstructed and laced denim or delicately embellished tulle skirts over
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INTERGALACTIC GODDESS
London: Louise Goldin’s starting point for the season was Pierre Cardin’s space age designs from the 60s, as well as traditional military garb. The collection threw Goldin into the group of young London designers who are fixated on the image of the sci-fi goddess/urban warrior, but Goldin differentiated herself from the pack by achieving the hard-edged shapes with engineered
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