POLAR EXPRESS
Paris: A giant faux glacier was the centerpiece for Karl Lagerfeld’s latest collection for Chanel, indicating an Eskimo-chic theme and yet another of his exotic journeys. Models stalked around the glacier in furry boots that protected them from the inch of water that covered the set. The clothing echoed the arctic inspirations: fur was used for nearly all of
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BOHO BALLERINA
Paris: Functional, elegant, and breezy, the looks presented by Vanessa Bruno in her F/W 2010 show would suit the lifestyle and tastes of a ballet dancer — or someone who just wants to look like one. The designer opened the show with what would be the base layer of most of the ensembles to come: soft leotards worn with
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FLOWING JOURNEY
Paris: This season, Tao Kurihara presented a series of relaxed, highly conceptual looks made from ultra-casual textiles like brushed denim, faded woven cotton, and cozy pointelle knits. Kurihara labeled the collection "Flowing Journey," which seemed an appropriate tag. The models looked nomadic in eclectic outfits, conjured from seemingly scavenged garments that could have been collected during far-flung travel. Layers
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THE NEW ESSENTIALS
Paris: Phoebe Philo’s recent comeback as designer at Celine has been lauded by critics and customers alike, and her influence has already been felt as scores of designers echo the modern minimalism she initiated. She stuck with the appealing style this season, elaborating on the elements she introduced for S/S 10 and Pre Fall. A-line skirts and flared
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HARD & SOFT
Paris: Known for her elegant Grecian dresses, Sophia Kokosalaki has been trying to expand her repertoire to more tailored separates in the past few years. Instead of keeping those two elements separate for fall, she wisely used her drapery skills to build soft, fitted structures. Inspired by the natural rolling landscape of her native Greece, Kokosalaki worked supple
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CAMO CAMEO
Paris: Junya Watanabe continued last season’s meditation on the hourglass, loosening up spring’s menswear-inspired suits with a more casual military influence for fall. On the same page as Dries Van Noten’s utilitarian-femme collection shown earlier in the week, Watanabe made the theme his own with a more conceptual approach. In addition to revisiting Dior’s New Look, he also delved
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PARISIAN SWEET
Paris: The collection shown by Cypriot born, Paris-based designer Erotokritos was a mix of classics, new ideas, and sweet interpretations of trend-right details seen on many runways this season. Uncomplicated and easy to wear, silhouettes included basics like shift dresses, pencil skirts and short boxy jackets; prints ranged from polka dots to a pretty, stained glass floral design.
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CULTURE CLASH
Paris: Gaultier was as eclectic and uninhibited as ever this season, showing a hodgepodge of mixed and matched looks from across the globe. No textile was off-limits: Fair Isle sweaters, cotton batiks, silk brocades, rich velvets, casual heathered knits, leather, fur — it was all there, and styled together. Layering played a central role in most looks, and the
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GLAMOUR FACTORY
Paris: Known for their runway spectacles, the duo behind Viktor & Rolf created another memorable one for the archives. Dubbed the Glamour Factory, the show employed retired model Kristen McMenamy as a makeshift coat rack, with almost half the collection piled on her thin body. As each model walked out, McMenamy would shed a layer and the designers would
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SCHOOLGIRL CHARM
Paris: In his second collection for the Parisian institution, Cédric Charlier seemed to be in a nostalgic mood, much like the customers who have been frantically snatching up the re-worked Cacharel and Liberty vintage released at Colette last month. While his debut took the house in a more contemporary direction, this fall’s charming coquette revisited the classic, sweetly-playful side
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ACCESSIBLE ABSURDITY
Paris: Ever since Martin Margiela announced his retirement last December, the anonymous design team that has taken up the helm has been struggling to find its footing and strike the same balance between experimentation and accessibility that garnered the maison a cult-like following. While it was hard for anyone other than Lady Gaga to find meaning behind last season’s
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LANGUID LEATHER
Paris: Rising star designer Haider Ackermann’s collection was his strongest yet. The draped leather pieces that have garnered him so much attention continued, this time with trapunto stitching that created a ribbed appearance and provided more structure. The pieces were used for slim vests with a hemline that came to a dramatic point and corset-like belts with asymmetrical zippers.
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PILLOW TALK
Paris: Never a woman of many words, Rei Kawakubo succinctly described her Comme des Garçons F/W 10 collection as “inside decoration”. While on the surface, the description seemed obvious, as what looked like tiny throw pillows decorated the garments, but with Kawakubo it’s never that easy. “Inside decoration” could also refer to the profundity of the work, the designer
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CIRCUS CIRCUS
Paris: Wit and whimsy is Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato's territory and there she delightfully stayed for her 20th anniversary show. Chisato is known for her joyous use of prints and graphics and laissez-faire attitude towards color, and she seamlessly wove these elements into several stories that were loosely based on the concept of circus performers and gypsy vagabonds. While
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SOCKHOP SOIRÉE
Paris: Like many other designers this season, Isabel Marant has begun to step away from the strong silhouetted looks of the 1980s — in Marant's case moving towards a flirty and fun 1950s aesthetic (a decade that also informed the 80s with its tight capri pants and pointy pumps.) Paris-based Marant is known for consistently rolling out some of
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