THE NEW NORMAL
Just when you think you have Miuccia Prada figured out, think again. For F/W 10, she found inspiration in the fact that, “There's everything conceivable around us, and I thought the coolest thing would be to do something normal." In one her most commercially appealing collections in years, the clothes that came out on the multi-colored "Lego land"
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REFINED ROCKABILLY
Breaking free of the last few seasons of quiet luxury, Tomas Maier sent a 50s rockabilly down a sophisticated, urbane road for F/W 10. With models sporting pompadour hair styles and bolo ties, as well as many wearing cuffed jeans with rubber-soled "creepers", the collection seemed to herald a season that will merge iconic looks of the 20th
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THE BATTLE OF BRITAIN
Christopher Bailey showed an enormously satisfying collection of what he does best: masculine, dramatic outerwear. The collection was influenced by military pomp and circumstance — right off the bat, there was an imposing military overcoat layered over a chambray shirt and skinny pants tucked into fur-lined boots. With nary a suit or tie in sight, the
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CITY MEETS COUNTRY
In what's become Milan's best kept secret, C.P. Company, in its second season under the creative direction of Scotland-born Wallace Faulds (formerly head designer for Galliano menswear), continues to present innovative fabrics and compelling styling. For F/W 10, Faulds' inspiration was a chic city dweller who takes a trip to the country; both influences merged perfectly in enthralling
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PRIMAL MEETS MODERN
Ennio Capasa's dark army marched out on the runway, offering a "juxtaposition of the man-made and the organic; fusing the most modern techniques of fabric available with the most classic traditions of tailored clothing." Multiple fabrics merged into one garment, adding interest and dimension to this dusky collection. Classic wool suit jackets had mohair sleeves, cropped cashmere
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ORGANIC GEOMETRY
As the designer for Jil Sander, Raf Simons continues to alter perceptions of what classic menswear should look like. For F/W 10, against an aggressive soundtrack of techno music, he presented futuristic shapes, emphasized by the use of curved seams for tailored jackets and trapezoid-shaped patch pockets randomly placed on pants and shirts. Suits cut from interesting fabrics like
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HUMBLE ROOTS
Shying away from the extravagance and glamour they're known for, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce celebrated their label's 20th anniversary by fully embracing their Sicilian heritage. Inspired by Giuseppe Tornatore's film Baaria, the clothes had a toned down, gritty sensibility. The tough attitude of knit long johns tucked into work boots was balanced out with speckled sweater coats — already
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