NEW YORK...Sticking to their usual tough but sobering pallette of dark blues, blacks and greys, G-Star evoked a modern utilatarian feel in this no nonsense collection. Dresses were simple yet chic, rendered in high shine fabrics or embellished with spacey silver sequins, while the light jeans tucked into chunky boots looked strong and capable. Outerwear was particularly directional, featuring highly
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NEW YORK...Denim, leather and lace are the trifecta of materials this season and Diesel made sure to make use of all of them, with a little bit of tailoring thrown in for good measure. Jumping on the innerwear as outerwear trend, lingerie played a huge role in the collection, from delicate layered slips to provactive corsets and loads of lacing.
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NEW YORK...Drawing inspiration from an entirely different source than his 1980s dance influenced Marc Jacobs line, ruffled mountaineers ruled the runway at Marc by Marc this season. As usual, layers were a key styling element, with socks scrunched over tights and girls bundled up in printed scarves and brimmed hats. Reds and navys were key tones, while multicolored stripes and
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New York...Derek Lam
Attempting to please those ladies who lunch, Lam said his collection was inspired colors and textures from Coco Chanel’s own interiors as well as the mood of Louis Malle’s 1958 movie, “Ascenseur pour l’Échafaud”, which starred Jeanne Moreau as a film noir heroine. Her character was dressed in a classically French manner, with the hint of a sinister
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NEW YORK...Trovata is known for bringing a laid back West coast feel to the New York runways, and this season they’ve managed to maintain this marketable look with a bit of French New Wave thrown in. Perfectly embodying the art of undone refinement, Trovata’s junior looks were the perfect balance of slouchy menswear and simple feminine basics. On the edgier
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New York...Narciso Rodriguez
The simplicity of suiting separates continued to be a focus for Rodriguez in his F/W 09 collection. His sport-inspired SCUBA style bodysuit shapes came through on mini dresses in black and taupe with a new detail of the season—a skin-tight hood. A series of futuristic gold coats and suit jackets in gunmetal were further united with an exposed
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New York...Max Azria
With a F/W 09 collection that “explores the ethereal seduction of the dark side,” a palette of moonless night, antique white, and aubergine emerged. Perhaps Azria was channeling Joan of Arc with billowing dresses in crêpe and velvet along with full-length leather gloves, evoking her crusading days. An ethereal lightness came through with translucent silks and laces on
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New York...Rodarte
The Mulleavy sisters have done it again. Staged at the Gagosian Gallery in Chelsea, their space age-themed F/W 09 collection featured a color palette drawn from stone, metal and wood. “We were interested in the building and taking apart of homes,” Laura explained. “And then an image of Boris Karloff as Frankenstein magically popped into our minds.”
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New York...Marc by Marc Jacobs
Depending on which runway review you read, you'll find a million different inspirations for Marc by Marc Jacobs' F/W 09 collection. It's really no great surprise since Jacobs has one of the most conflicted messages each and every season. Some thought his fall showing had bits of '80s hip hop mixed in for good measure, and
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New York...Diesel Black Gold
If you ever wondered what it would be like to re-live the last days of the Roaring '20s to an orchestra-narrated, jazz version of Nirvana's greatest hits, you should have seen Renzo Rosso's F/W 09 collection for Diesel Black Gold, their runway-friendly assortment of more than just jeans. With show notes that said, "Diesel Black goes kind
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New York...William Rast
Justin Timberlake and designer J. Lindeberg were intrigued by the gritty, down-home flavor of the deep South. They wanted the "American iconography of denim heritage and biker culture" to be re-packaged and modernized. This meant patchwork denim on leather moto jackets, studded and cropped denim trucker jackets, and tuxedo jackets styled with chambray shirts and zippered pants. The
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New York...Temperley London
One among the several New York designers who opted out of holding a runway show this season, Alice Temperley held a two-day presentation of her F/W collection with an accompanying online video show. “I’ve been looking for an alternative way to show for a while now, and with editors and retailers cutting back on travel, the video seemed
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NEW YORK...Justin Timberlake's line William Rast has become a bona fide phenomenon, with campaigns featuring model of the moment Erin Wasson and many new retailers vying for the pieces. This season the looks were centered on denim, a trademark item of the label, with skinny styles still the focus. This standard silhouette was updated with stud details as well as
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NEW YORK...Tracy Reese has been the epitome of feminine fashion for quite a few years, catering to a young, but somewhat conservative client. For F/W 09 she brings a bit more flirtation into her collection, using some hallmarks of both the grunge and Clueless eras such as knit beanie caps and thigh high stockings mixed with light floral dresses. Pinstriped
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NEW YORK...Jill Stuart hasn't been known for her toughness over the years, preferring to stay on the more sweetly feminine side of fashion. For F/W 09 all of that changed, as the designer delved into a much more rock and roll inspiration. Black lace, chains, velvet and tough heels all made the cut; mini skirts and shorts were key. This
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