Milan...Burberry Prorsum
Christopher Bailey has done it again. For F/W 09, he created a collection full of stylized, wearable pieces with a signature Burberry Prorsum look. He said, “It should have a point of view. Burberry’s is outerwear, and that’s what I’ve worked on here, from the casual shell of a trench to luxe furs.” He took looks from the Bloomsbury
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Milan...Emporio Armani
Relaxed tailoring, cascading ruffles and pleated shorts were key elements for a collection that was on-trend for F/W 09. Using the newest color mix, navy and black, Armani created a new suiting silhouette. The blazer was seen in a “shrunken” shape with belting at the natural waist or in a cropped tuxedo style. Hemlines on pleated black satin shorts
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MILAN...Although Roberto Cavalli's regular line can be too mature for juniors, his secondary line Just Cavalli gets it just right. For F/W 09 the collection took a distinctly punk direction, much more edgy than the company's usual fare. Wild, artistic prints added interest to dresses and jackets, while liberally shredded pants lent a disheveled air to youthful suiting. Strong shoulders,
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MILAN... Rosella Jardini's show for Moschino Cheap and Chic was much more conceptual than usual, featuring cheeky elements like
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Milan...Missoni
Layer upon layer of knitwear caused a sensation at the Missoni show. In every element—from outerwear to accessories and sportswear—there was something for everyone. Spiderweb knit dresses (reminiscent of sweaters signature to a certain New York design duo) updated this Italian knit-house’s traditional techniques for the women of today. Another dimension was added to the look with ribbed leggings in
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FABRIC & MATERIALS
L to R: Roksanda Ilinic, Marios Schwab, Nathan Jenden, Paul Smith
The tactile nature of fall garments was at the forefront of London designers' minds. A shift away from the exclusive use of traditional fabrics created an added value to each piece. Panne velvet appeared like liquid mercury, draping the body on long sleeved dresses with lace insets. The
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SHAPE
L to R: Erdem, Julien Macdonald, Paul Smith, Marios Schwab
Fashion Week in London put a spotlight on intriguing silhouettes from designers, most drawing emphasis to the shoulders. With a play on strong masculine and sweet feminine details, an array of looks came down the runway. Erdem created a feminine “bell shape” on dresses by raising the waist to right above
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COLOR
L to R: Todd Lynn, Christopher Kane, Giles Deacon, Marios Schwab
Designers from London Fashion Week worked with their F/W 09 collections in four major color groups; Black and White, Metallic Mix, Grey paired with Nude, and Brights. A monochromatic palette of strong black and pure white worked together on tailored pieces. Streamlined slim trousers were balanced in proportion with
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LONDON... The Peter Pilotto label has been gaining significant ground over the past few seasons, as well known fashion names like Anouck Lepere (Jefferson Hack's girlfriend and Peter Pilotto model) wear the designs out and about on the global fashion circuit, promoting Pilotto's creative prints. For F/W 09, he applied patterns inspired by the Big Bang to miniskirts and dresses
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London...Roksanda Ilincic
Playing with proportions of cropped pants, blazers and asymmetrical tops, Ilincic was inspired by happy ’80s club days. High-shine surfaces on cropped silk charmeuse blazers with accentuated shoulders were wrapped with velvet ribbon, creating a feminine hourglass shape. Voluminous bows on blouses in the same pale mint created an elegance reminiscent of the era. Crocodile-embossed satin created new surface
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LONDON...Ed Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff haven't received the attention they deserve so far, despite collections which push the envelope of fabric manipulation as well as silhouette. For juniors, the shredded look has been gaining ground for some time and Meadham Kirchoff uses the technique on button downs instead of t-shirts for a more dressy, yet still edgy result. For fall,
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London...Josh Goot
Taking a cue from nature, Goot looked at stones and crystals to inspire his F/W 09 collection. Neutral colors of grey and taupe mixed with black to keep the palette minimal on pants, dresses and ankle boots to match. Geological-inspired organic shapes swirled in cutout motifs on jersey. Exploding rock formations speckled body-contouring dresses, creating an asymmetrical effect.
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LONDON...Mark Fast is one of the most buzzed about emerging designers in London, lauded for his creative knitwear and awarded a place on the prestigious British Fashion Council New Generation presentation calendar. Producing sexy, body-conscious work which tempers its abbreviated allure with creative construction, Fast makes deconstruction look considered. Key details include exposed shoulders, a peekaboo, slashed halter top and
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London...Julien Macdonald
Keeping in tune with New York design directions, Macdonald looked at the evolution of his client from younger looks to higher degrees of sophistication. His party days are over and his focus has shifted to work and world issues. He said, “I’m just working really hard, nonstop. All I’ve ever wanted is to make women feel glamorous and
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LONDON...House of Holland is traditionally one of the most anticipated shows of fashion week in London, valued for high energy, bright color and a cutting edge soundtrack. F/W 09 was no different, providing many it-girl sightings, Agyness Deyn on the runway and a presentation like a Pantone book come to life. The bright tones served to distract from some difficult
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