PARIS...Isabel Marant is famous for making the kind of clothing that is easily wearable and popular with younger customers, but not the high fashion normally seen on the Paris runways. Her reliablity is constant and for F/W 09 she continues to solidify her reputation. Juniors will love her heathered minis, as well as longer tiered skirts, dressy sweatshirts and Chanel-like
...
Read more >
Paris...Maison Martin Margiela
Having been one of the designers to herald the “return of the shoulder”, Margiela continued to use sculpted padding for his F/W 09 collection despite the up-trend. Jackets, sweaters and dresses all received this distinctive detail. The full impact of a piece climaxed when the reverse side of dresses exposed an illusion of bare backs with only a
...
Read more >
Paris...Lanvin
Keeping consistent with his spring collection, Alber Elbaz delivered feminine luxury for F/W 09. “I thought with my heart about what women need from fashion—dresses, suits, blouses, coats. Life isn’t just parties and lunches,” he said. In a palette of mostly black, strapless dresses were draped to the side, creating a cascading asymmetrical flounce. Sequins and crystal-embellished shifts recalling
...
Read more >
Paris...Rick Owens
Known for his mix of leather and fur, Owens remained consistent with his signature style for F/W 09 with a color palette that evolved from his standard deep black. “It started off dark. But then…they blossomed into swans,” he says of his design evolution. In layers of leather mixed with satin tunics and ribbed leggings, his jackets
...
Read more >
Paris...Nina Ricci
Sky-high platforms traipsed down a glittery runway, bringing with them sparkled looks to match. Lurex-embellished sweaters were padded at the shoulders, creating broad silhouette, balanced out by wide leg silk trousers. The front of a boiled wool sheath dress was inlaid with multicolored sequins in the shape of a lightning bolt. Sequined crescent moons created a delicate all-over
...
Read more >
PARIS...Christophe Decarnin has swiftly become the darling of the Parisian fashion crowd, with practically the entire staff of French Vogue outfitted head to toe in Balmain's aggressive and alluring designs. For F/W 09 he stuck to his previous equation of slim cuts, sparkle and strong shoulders, which didn't offer anything new for the market, but drove home his established style.
...
Read more >
Paris...Balenciaga
In a change from his esoteric looks of the past few seasons, Nicolas Ghesquière produced a collection of staple pieces. His previous spring collection was defined by space age dresses and long sleeve tops that clung to the body in futuristic forms. For F/W 09, he presented a more feminine story of loosely draped dresses and skirts of
...
Read more >
Paris...Gareth Pugh
Following the example of Viktor & Rolf’s S/S 09 collection presented in video form, Pugh put together a reel using a singular model, Natasa Vojnovic. With music from The Shining sounding off in the background, viewers were drawn to the presentation in a slightly different way from his more futuristic collections of the past. Before the video began, he
...
Read more >
PARIS...Kris Van Assche has found more success with his own line, versus his efforts for Dior Homme during the past few seasons. Although his looks for F/W 09 are a bit sophisticated for Juniors, they are as close to casual many designers in Paris get, showing directional but appropriate elements like tough boots, black and white graphic prints, sheer blouses
...
Read more >
FABRIC & MATERIALS
L to R: Burberry Prorsum, Marni, Max Mara, Fendi
In a city known for its unique fabric choices and their innovative usage, Milan designers re-evaluated and refreshed their abundant supply of materials. Brocade and jacquards, similar to those found in home furnishings, were used for coats and paper-bag skirts; lurex blends in dark colors looked extremely relevant. Inspired
...
Read more >
SHAPE
L to R: Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, Pollini
Taking cues from New York designers, Milan Fashion Week sustained forms inspired by art and architecture. Jil Sander's Raf Simons drew inspiration from mid-century French ceramicist, Pol Chambost, to mold his double-faced dresses and suits. Dresses from Roberto Cavalli, adopting futuristic forms, fell mid-thigh and were paired with over-the-knee
...
Read more >
COLOR
L to R: Moschino, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Alessandro Dell'Acqua
Enticing color combinations emerged on a series of new surfaces in Milan. The once taboo pairing of navy blue and black was engaged by more than one collection, shattering old rules and boldly creating a new sophisticated palette for tailored looks. Seen mixed on a single piece, matched together in
...
Read more >
Milan...Krizia
In a play-it-safe palette of black and white, the splashes of red injected a surprising emotion to staple pieces in Krizia's F/W 09 presentation. Windowpane plaid appeared on a sheath dress with a matching jacket, lined with bright red satin. Drawing attention to the inside of garments provides added value for those holding tightly to their wallets. In the same
...
Read more >
Milan...Pollini
Starting off as an Italian footwear brand, the design house has been re-vamped by Jonathan Saunders. Elements from his New York collection were transferred over to this show with high shine surfaces seen on fabrics along with medallions and closures - metallics appeared in gold and silver. A belted dress, bearing a gold coin belt, tied at the neck and
...
Read more >
Milan...Max Mara
A refreshing take on subtle pieces for fall were extremely wearable at Max Mara. Luxe fabrics like cashmere, satin, alpaca, and camel hair were used for layered looks. Outerwear remodeled from the classic trench was unexpected in short sleeve shapes. Cinched at the waist, a cropped version was paired the same toned layered skirt, lace up booties and abbreviated
...
Read more >
