BAGS
L to R: Prada, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Lanvin
Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks showcased some of the most thought-provoking accessory presentations in recent seasons. The juxtaposition between extreme angular shapes and soft volumes mixed with classic lady-like styles kept within the continuous theme of protective shields, organic comforts and a nod to powerful women in the workplace of the
...
Read more >
FABRIC & MATERIALS
L to R: Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney
Innovative fabrics were the nucleus to create individual looks on intricate pieces during Paris Fashion Week. Patchwork became highly stylized compared to “granny’s quilts” from the past seasons. Rabbit fur in a black and taupe mix created a panel in the front of a salt and pepper tweed
...
Read more >
SHAPE
L to R: Maison Martin Margiela, Haider Ackerman, Dries Van Noten, Balenciaga
Draping the body in new formations expressed femininity at Paris Fashion Week. Playing with these elements made designers question what shapes work for a woman. A high-waisted pant, tailored in a menswear style, cropped the torso and simultaneously created an hourglass shape. One-shouldered dresses examined extremities by slicing
...
Read more >
COLOR
L to R: Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Chloe, Chanel
The sensitivity to new colors and combinations illuminated the excellent craftsmanship associated with French design during Paris Fashion Week. A pale cosmetic neutral worked well on simple shapes in highly textured fabrics; dimension was created through draping and considered tucking. Head-to-toe looks were varied with tonal greys coming together on two-piece
...
Read more >
PARIS...Known for his creative use of materials and fearlessness with prints Jean-Charles de Castelbajac maintained his reputation as the king of pop avant-garde with his most recent collection. Last season's sequined Obama dresses made way for more sociopolitical references this time around, including a recession appropriate dollar bill dress complete with the face of the new President and graphic tees
...
Read more >
Paris...RM Roland Mouret
Previously showing in New York with a collection under his namesake, Roland Mouret went back to his homeland of Paris last year and renamed it "RM Roland Mouret." His F/W 09 “careerwear” collection expressed all of his strong points (tailoring and sleek dresses) with a new component, knitwear. Boat neck sweaters and ruffle-front cut-and-sew knits were worn with
...
Read more >
Paris...Miu Miu
True to form, Miuccia Prada closed Paris Fashion Week with a fantastic showing of feminine looks suited to her client. There has been a shift from the old ways of spontaneous spending into a renaissance of conscious purchasing. This rebirth anticipates a significantly increased demand for staple pieces. Calling each look, “different kinds of femmes fatales,” she explored various
...
Read more >
Paris...Louis Vuitton
Distracting himself from hard economic times, Marc Jacobs kept his head in the clouds – and children’s books—for his F/W 09 Louis Vuitton collection. The pieces, fit for ladies who lunch, were influenced by the fantasy of Wonderland. Asymmetrical ruching, balloon-like hemlines and exaggerated pin-tucked cap sleeves embellished exquisitely tailored suits. Stylized pearls completed this proper feeling;
...
Read more >
Paris...Hermes
In a luscious display of textural fabrics, outerwear was the key element at Hermès. Taking cues from their famed handbags, a crocodile bomber jacket was trimmed in fur. A double knit “blanket” coat covered a lamb’s fur pencil skirtwas accompanied by an actual blanket, rolled and tied to a leather strap, crossing the body in preparation for unexpected landings.
...
Read more >
Paris...Chloe
Now at the helm of the French house’s directional navigation, Hannah McGibbon sent an adventurous woman down the runway with looks that hearkened back to the adventure-ready styles of the heroines from Indiana Jones movies. Inspired by Antonio Lopez, the popular fashion illustrator from the early ‘80s, her color palette emerged in loden green, taupe, cream and khaki. A
...
Read more >
PARIS... Designer Antonio Marras brought a very different look to the runway, standing out from many of the darker,
...
Read more >
Paris...Manish Arora
Continuing on with his propensity for fanciful presentations (last season was a circus), Manish Arora sent artistic interpretations of animals down the runway for F/W 09. An Art Deco-esque peacock appeared at the center of a sculpted dress, with its stylized feathers fanning out in a delicate symmetry. Exaggerated hips and shoulders stood away from the body on
...
Read more >
Paris...Chanel
Sophisticated English suiting was perfectly accessorized with an intricately-tied cravat, setting a mood of dandy English Regency style for the Chanel F/W 09 presentation. Dubbed the "Belle Brummel" collection, Karl Lagerfeld deconstructed dandy looks and reworked them for the modern woman. Chanel’s signature feminine suits in traditional tweeds incorporated emerald green into the traditional mix of black and white,
...
Read more >
Paris...Alexander McQueen
In a collection with a fiercely imaginative spirit similar to that of couture, there was nothing commercial about McQueen’s F/W 09 presentation. Exaggerated houndstooth and tweed patterns on lady-like suits were topped-off with outlandish hats crafted out of miniature umbrellas. Dominatrix heels and garishly painted lips added to the fantasy, reminiscent of the shocking sensation felt at the
...
Read more >
Paris...Yves Saint Laurent
In a palette of black, white and grey, Stefano Pilati said, “I have to reflect the times, and this really is my mood.” Starting off with the motorcycle jacket, he looked back at many of the pinnacle moments in the French house’s history including elements of leather and flannel, crisp white shirts, and tuxedo looks. Elongated leather
...
Read more >
