MATERIAL MIXOLOGY
London: Cementing her status as one of London Fashion Week’s most promising designers on the rise, Simone Rocha delivered her strongest collection yet for F/W 12. Rocha has maintained a steady momentum since debuting last Fall, improving each season and firmly establishing a signature aesthetic that’s largely characterized by meticulous tailoring and innovative material use. The designer picked up where she left off with sheer layering and experimental piecing last season, and spiced things up for F/W 12 by incorporating metallic leather garments and crocheted details. Rocha brought back last season’s Perspex-soled oxfords, which proved to be a smash hit, and also added a skimmer silhouette to the mix. —Whitney Kessler
Silhouette: Straight / Boxy / Full-hipped
Color: Winter whites / Black / Chartreuse / Silver
Key Items: Boxy shell / Skirt suit / Straight mini / Peplum top / Large-collared jacket / Decorated shift
Materials: Lace / Tulle / Wild mohair / Wool suitings and yarns / Linton tweeds / Silver leather / Cotton shirtings / Clear PVC
Print + Pattern: Feline spots
Details + Trim: Crocheted trims / Hidden closures / Peplums / Pieced constructions / Detachable collars
Accessories + Footwear: Oxfords and skimmers with Perspex soles / Tall crocheted headbands
