Robert Geller


GERMAN GRUNGE
New York: Robert Geller presented a dark and brooding collection engulfed in romanticism and grittiness for F/W 13. Looks had a sense of dark creative energy similar to the 1920s German Expressionist films that inspired the designer this season. There was curiousness to the looks, with illusion prints, stripes stacked over plaids, or Swiss dots in a gloomy color palette of ashy hues and shades of grey with only pops of vermillion, plum or gold. Geller masterfully toyed with layering — long, oversized plaid shirts under striped jackets and topped off with tweed blazers, quilted shorts under layering pants, and plaid collar turtlenecks under contrast patterned button-fronts. The collection perfectly encapsulated the mood of the Berlin post-war era with the distortions of proportions and romantic, yet ominous layering, which has grungy street appeal for today. —Kathleen Tso

Silhouette:  Curiously layered

Color:  Oxblood / Plum / Vermillion / Shades of gray / Bordeaux / Vermillion / Gold / Midnight / White / Ashy plum / Dark taupe

Key Items:  Quilted insulated wool shorts / Black coated striped tweed dinner jacket / Wool slouchy “Metropolis” trousers / Drawstring wool trousers / Long chunky knit cardigans / Oversized long plaid button-fronts

Materials: Hand-coated polyurethane tweeds / Bleed printed shirting / Pigment-dyed knits / Grosgrain / Nylon / Chunky knits / Leather / Wool suiting / Sweatshirt material / Mohair / Denim

Print + Pattern:  Stripes / Box plaids / Swiss dots / Dashed stripes

Details + Trim: Quilted coating / Treatment coated color blocking / Shearling collars / Fabric blocking / Contrast collars

Accessories + Footwear: Striped and dotted leather gloves / Exaggerated black woolen hats / Navy illusion square scarves / Suede desert boots / Striped socks / Insulated quilted wool scarves / Double belts / Nubuck high-tops / Long, basic knit scarves / Bordeaux ribbed socks

View in RUNWAY: QUICKLOOK

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