POET FROM THE PAST
New York: Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are sartorial masters at seamlessly connecting the dapper past with a razor sharp future. In their universe, haunted poets, steam punks and aristocratic soldiers all wander the same dark alleyways — clad in inky colors, regal silhouettes and lush fabrics. As their F/W 12 show began, ribbons of rich color etched across a large LED screen in rhythmic patterns. The effect was of a futuristic tapestry, and it prefaced the exquisite jacquard separates and dramatic shapes that made the collection one of the best of the season. Also present were ombré suits, blocky blanket stripes, and snake-sized cable knits. Unsurprisingly, it was herringbone heaven, with washed tweeds, broken-in chambray and wool flannel to round out the time-honored trinity. Season after season, the design duo turn out aspirational collections that speak to traditions of yesteryear while also doing their part to evolve menswear for the modern man. —Michael Fisher
Silhouette: Tailored layers
Color: Midnight blue / Grey / Charcoal / Merlot / Bronze / Olive / Khaki / Cornflower blue / Orange
Key Items: Blanket coats / Fur-trimmed overcoats / Ombre suiting / Bulky cardi-coats / Tailored vests / Pea coats / Blanket trousers / Flannel suits
Materials: Herringbone tweed / Chambray / Washed wool flannel / Fur / Leather / Moleskin cotton / Melton wool / Silk jacquards
Details + Trim: Fur-trimmed lapels and collars / Leather shawl collars / Leather tuxedo stripes on pants / Watch pockets on vests / Leather adjustable tabs on cuffs / Ombre effects for suiting / Contrast piping
Accessories + Footwear: Pocket watches / Chunky boots / Suspenders / Herringbone + leather carryalls / Foppish scarves / Cognac leather belts
