ORIENT EXPRESS
New York: Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough looked to traditional Eastern costume this season. Opening the show, was a series of looks — boxy jackets, oversized shirts and wide leg pants — in crisp white cotton that recalled karate uniforms. Wrap silhouettes and wide leather sashes evoked kimonos, while details like trapunto stitching, asymmetric closures and mandarin collars further referenced ancient Asian methods of dress. Materials were rich and dimensional; quilted satins and lustrous brocades also drew from the East, but were paired against innovative materials, like an intricate grid-like fabric created by woven strips of leather, for a thoroughly modern feel. Elements of street style played into the collection as well — most surprisingly in the luxe evening items. Sweatshirts and varsity jackets were interpreted in quilted satin with densely embroidered birds, slouchy crewnecks were cut in a shiny scalloped mesh, and cocktail dresses featured leather raglan sleeves. From slouchy silhouette to enticing texture, an utterly “Proenza” F/W 12 collection. —Anna Jane Davis
Silhouette: Boxy / Oversized / Asymmetric / Mini
Color: White / Cream / Black / Orange / Seafoam / Brick Red / Celadon / Royal Blue
Key Items: Oversized shirt / Pleated wide leg pants / Boxy asymmetric jacket / Wrap mini skirt / Brocade cocktail dress
Materials: Crisp cottons / Silk brocade / Leather + woven leather / Quilted satin / Mesh / Densely beaded wovens
Print + Pattern: Grid-like weaves / Color-blocking / Geo repeats / Embroidered birds
Details + Trim: Leather trim / Material piecing / Contrast piping / Quilting / Embroidery
Accessories + Footwear: Big boxy clutches / Knee boots / Peeptoe booties / Knee socks
