GOTHIC EXPERIMENT
Milan: John Richmond expanded his range for F/W 12, flexing his imagination with a slick, gothic inspiration. Sticking to a monochromatic palette, Richmond’s fit and flare silhouette was both modern and feminine, featuring burnout sheath dresses, full a-line skirts and nipped-waist suits. Corset boning and wide belts defined the waist, and florid black and white patterns were clean and
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THE ROYAL TREATMENT
Milan: This season, Alessandro Dell'Acqua combined rich inspiration — the idea of Queen Elizabeth in her garden — with younger, directional looks for his two-year-old No. 21 collection. Heritage tweeds in deep vegetal tones were freshened with a veil of organza and cut into modern high-low mini skirts and dresses. Simple tailored items — classic button-front shirts, sleeveless
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SEDUCTIVE SHADOW
Milan: For F/W 12, Frida Giannini did a dark, rich about-face from her bright and floral Pre-Fall Gucci collection, reveling in luxurious nighttime velvet, sheer silk and sensuous draped silhouettes. A refreshing covered-up sense of mystery permeated the presentation, with no sign of the more blatant body-consciousness usually de rigueur for the label. Instead Giannini seduced with slinky pajama
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INNOCENT ENGLISH ROSE
London: Maarten van der Horst showed a collection of pretty little tailored items in a soft pastel palette. Silhouettes were girlish — pleated minis, cropped shirts, fitted jackets and structured bodysuits — and a garden rose print added even more innocent femininity to the mix. Looks were surprisingly light for Fall, and required layering as a key styling
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BOY'S CLUB
London: For Fall, up-and-comer Thomas Tait stepped away from his sculpted minimalist constructions to focus on Menswear wardrobe basics like the the white button-down shirt and the classic navy peacoat. Looks had a workwear feel, especially those cut in raw denim and suede, and silhouettes — oversized coats and cropped trousers — felt boyish. Luxury appeared in the form
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BREAKING THE MOLD
London: The inspiration for Antonio Berardi's futuristic F/W 12 collection was surprisingly traditional — he looked to Rococo sculptor Giacomo Serpotta. The garments emulated the molded curves synonymous with Rococo works, but felt undeniably modern in neoprene-like materials and with curvaceous color-blocked insets. Silhouettes emphasized the waist — fit-and-flare minis and peplum jackets — and even sharp, straight
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ACTIVE DISTINCTION
London: Simple, sporty and clean. Those were the watchwords for Antipodium’s first London runway show, a slick and appealing parade of bomber jackets, slim skirts and skinny trousers. These items may be nothing new, but in creative director Geoffrey Finch’s hands they gained distinction through detailing and an icy, mineral palette. Classic bombers were coated in PVC or softened
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SERIOUSLY SURREAL
London: Upon first glance, the most striking aspect of the Fall Moschino Cheap and Chic collection are the interesting and off-beat color combinations. Pastels meeting up with chartreuse and neon yellow, avocado and olive sitting with mustard and bubblegum pink. But an unusual palette was just one technique to further creative director Rossella Jardini’s surrealist 50s theme. Styled with
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BUBBLEGUM DECO
London: Holly Fulton’s prints can appear linear and graphic at first, comprised of modern repeats and mirrored repetition. But upon closer inspection, Fulton slipped in a number of organic surprises for F/W 12; a butterfly cutout layered as a textured halterneck, a striped miniskirt emblazoned with amorphous orchids, and asymmetric palm fronds stretching across a knit top. These natural
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LUXE LOUNGEWEAR
London: Roksanda Ilincic described her F/W 12 inspiration as "weekend or leisure wear, the kind of thing you put on when you're cozy at home," and took the concept to the next level with luxurious interpretations of cozy items like sweats and house dresses. Reworked sweatshirts featured fox-trimmed hoods or silk panels, and further lost any frumpy connotations when
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